Wildgoose

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Posts posted by Wildgoose


  1. 13 hours ago, SimpleSue said:

    thanks, What is weird, I had it in WinPc and it was great then I put it in the Cuts alot and wow, it's so messed up. Thank you for looking at it. I will be starting all over and make a new one. 

    If you are workin in a windows environment Vinyl Master is a far better choice for cutting utility than SCALP. There are people who have learned it enough to get what they want out of it but it has always been a bit of a pariah on the forum. It is the best US Cutter offers for a mac platform but is not the best option there is, there are other cutting utilities that are superior to it.  

    • Like 2

  2. 56 minutes ago, SimpleSue said:

    thanks everyone. I am trying to Use my winpc sign software instead. I 'm just trying to get my computer and cutter to get on the same page LOL .  

    It's most likely a very small detail you are missing. If you can export that other file as an .svg file we can take a peek and eliminate or confirm if there really is duplicated layers in it. Then it's simpler to figure out what's happening. 


  3. I suggest you invest in Find my Font. It is a great program and as most of your previous posts have been trying to find fonts you evidently do enough that it would be worth it (at least to the rest of us who also have busy lives). Some of these need to be straightened and cleaned up like scarecrow did on the Music Machine. It can be a bit time consuming but will usually get you good results. Clean, black on white straight on camera shots will turn results in seconds. I actually use mine as much on my own artwork as on new stuff. If you design something a couple years ago and then need to make a text change it can be miserable to remember exactly which font you used. 

    • Like 1

  4. 15 hours ago, Motioneffects said:

    :thumbsup: you will love it! Phil Johnson at Airmark is running some deals on tangential cutters this month. S2T for S2D prices. 

    That is exactly why I am working on making the leap. A couple thousand off the regular price. I was trying to get there last year but just didn't quite get there. Big step even to go with a new cutter when my NOW cutter is still great. Explaining the need to my better half is the hard part. 

    My only worry or hesitation at all is long term wear and tear as compared to the drag knife. I recently replaced the regular blade holder and that's all this machine has ever needed. The tangential has a lot more moving parts out there to wear. I hear they are fantastic to weed fine details but I worry that 10 years down the road I'll HAVE to upgrade due to age. There are older Summas that are twice the age of mine still diligently cranking along without a worry. I don't want to lose that longevity just for the cool factor. 

    I have to make up my mind this week and having my existing machine pre-sold would definitely push me over the edge easily enough. If no on jumps on it I sill have to really decide if it's what I want to do. 

    • Like 1

  5. If you are talking about registration marks to align different color layers of a multi color cut vinyl project, yes. If you are talking about registration marks to be printed by a solvent/eco-solvent printer to be used by optical sensors then it's more complicated. 

    If the first you can build your own marks and place them wherever you want. Once you have them where you want them you can copy and past another set right on top and change the color layer to match the other color(s) and they will appear as if by magic when you open that color in the cutter dialog. 

    Please take a minute to join the forum. It will allow you unfettered access. Guest posts each have to be reviewed and approved by the mods and there aren't that many of us and we are volunteers who have our own lives going on and may not be particularly timely. 


  6. 4 hours ago, SimpleSue said:

    I don't know much about this software, which is sure cuts a lot pro 3 .  I used another software, which I liked using, do to a new cutter the software is so different. My fonts (text) are cutting three times, almost every letter. I do I fix this and clean it up. Using the Simplify path, is not working  You can only go up to 100 and I need  more to get it way less nodes, to keep Simplify , it is taking way to long. What can I do and get it done faster? Thanks in advance. 

    More likely you have multiple exact copies stacked on top of one another. Or you have some setting selected to make multiple passes. 

    If you file is not something copyright protected you can post it and we can take a look. You may be able to find it by selecting your work and ungrouping it (perhaps more than one time) and then unselect by clicking off in a blank spot or on another object and then select it again and drag the object to a new location. The lower elements (if they exist) should remain there. You can sometimes spot these in your cut dialog box if they happen to be a different color or have no assigned color. 


  7. Repost. I think I am going to make the leap and buy a Tangential so the D75R (Handles 30 inch vinyl and is a servo cutter with true optical eye contour cutting called OPUS) is back up for sale. I am pretty committed this time around and am lowering the price on my unit to help it move and knock a little of the pain out of my new one. Summa is made in Belgium and are absolutely the Rolls Royce or Bently of cutters. They have lifetime free tech support regardless of original purchase. I have never had an ounce of problem and have had a great experience since I upgraded to this cutter from my old P-Cut Chinese stepper machine.

    $1200 and you cover the actual shipping and it's yours. The only stipulation is I have to get my new one in hand before I'll ship this one out. You don't need to worry about paying until I get to that point but I would appreciate a commitment as soon as possible so my wife doesn't kill me in my sleep for buying a new toy. 

    My D75 is in great shape and I messed up and dropped the bearings out of my regular blade holder and had to buy a new one about a month ago so that was $80 and the Summa blades are $25 ish. An extra new blade and a few burner blades for when you cut glitter or reflective are coming with it. Includes the Micro sprockets (end roll clamps that keep your material aligned. Stand and material baskets are all included too. 

    What does NOT come is software (other than the driver disk). You will need to figure out what works for you on that end. I use SignCut Pro but will be keeping that for my new machine. Actually as I think about it there may be a copy of Winplot on that disc that is a very basic cutting utility but no design abilities. I'll have to dig that out and double check. 

    Post up or PM me if your interested. 

    • Like 1

  8. 9 hours ago, dvddvd said:

    I bought a infrared temp gun.

    I set the press at 170c let it warm up, aimed and it reads 108 C ? The bottom of the heat press has a plastic cover and when in open position it hangs down a little so the temp gun is reading the sagging plastic, which i assume affects the temperture? Any ideas thanks

    You need to aim the infrared as perpendicular to the platen as possible and usually a given distance away. I think about 6" Angled shots are not as accurate . Is the cover a teflon sheet? If so just take it off for the test and you can put it back on after you get dialed in. If using a teflon sheet/cover you usually also want to increase your time by a couple seconds. 


  9. I wouldn't even trust a single layer to a home iron. The whole concept of trying to apply with an iron is ridiculous IMO. I use a really expensive press and even with the best money can buy it's pretty easy to get a poor application from something as simple as a thick seam on a tee shirt. I have not used Color Theory so I have no hands on experience with their potential quirks. That is massive overflow though. I have never seen that much in all my days of making shirts.  

    • Like 1

  10. Same as most above.

    However, cutting heat transfer vinyl for tee's tends to need a nice sharp blade, especially if it's Siser Stretch. I have been cutting regular vinyl and then need to swap to HTV and found it was not getting through the stretchy stuff. 

    Also, cutting reflective or glitter can shorten the life of your blade dramatically. I save my change out blades that were still working just for when I need to do something nasty like glitter that I don't want to subject a newer blade to. Be sure to place them in a separate spot so you know which were new and used. I have used clean cut blades and they are awesome. If you try them out be sure to drop your cutting force by about half to start with and work back into the material because they cut better. 


  11. Most presses, especially the budget models, will have an area or two that are a little lower than the rest. Set it so that cooler area (if yours has one) is the correct temp. HTV is pretty forgiving and many brands have a fairly wide temp range. I tend to go a little on the long side and with plenty of pressure but at the correct temp. I bought my temp gun at an auto parts store I think. 

    The Easyweed regular will definitely show the weave of the fabric like was mentioned above. That's the "tried and true" method. Stretch doesn't show nearly like regular. Stretch has also changed their recommended heat and time where they used to be the very same. Still 305 F for 12-15 for regular but it's 32o for stretch and 20 seconds for stretch now. They were having problems and changed those several months ago. 

    • Like 1

  12. You DEFINITELY want to verify the temp with an infrared. Maybe you can borrow one from someone. 

    On the pressure, I would look at the springs when I was using my original swinger. I used them as a gauge of sorts. I tend, even now, to press a little harder than take a chance on being too light. The worst you will see is if you over press it will start to squeeze out the adhesive along the edges. 

    • Like 1

  13. Several schools of thought. 1. Budget cutter (I would STILL avoid the MH and go to the SC2) and keep your trial investment low. 2. Mid range leap into a Titan or perhaps the Prismcut. (we have not seen much on the Prismcut as yet. It's new and is a stepper motor but I think it has high down force. My browser bounces back to the first screen when I try to look at the spec sheet) 3. All in for a Graphtec or similar name brand full tilt machine. (over your budget)

    Whichever you choose I suggest avoiding bundles. The stuff they send in bundles is usually bottom rung quality and not all the helpful. I still have quite a bit of my bundle I bought back in 2010 which is as yet unused so you can have my stuff. 

    Definitely go with a machine capable of cutting on 24" vinyl (most designate this as a 28" cutter, the name brands use a "60" after the cutter model to designate 60cm I think) Buying anything limited to smaller than 24" rolls will severely affect your product availability and you'll soon be regretting the small savings. 

    I started out with option 1 and chose roughly the equivalent of the SC2 or thereabout with a stepper motor. It was sufficient to learn a LOT and eventually I made the leap to a full bore commercial pro level machine and now have a working side business. I did not go into it with that in mind. It was a safe way to start a new hobby and I had SO much fun I have stuck with it and the forum ever since. Good luck with your conundrum. It's really hard to know what to do when you are brand new to something like this. I expect you have done a fair amount of online searching. Takes notes and think it through. The Prismcut is interesting but being as new to the users forum as it is we have little to help. It could be fantastic but somehow I just have a slight doubt in the back of my mind. Seems a little too multi-task oriented for something that is such a specific use operation for the rest of the cutting world. 

    On another note also avoid small heat presses (go at least 15"x 15")and the ones that have multi-function like mug and plate press connections. I like a swinger because I can work over the platen without the heat right above my finders. You will be aligning HTV vinyl to the shirt if you decide to get a press and build shirts. I HIGHLY suggest this. More fun than a barrel of monkeys and all your friends and family will be delighted when you make them a cool tee. We do 98% apparel in my side business now where it was not my main focus when I bought my equipment.  

    • Like 1

  14. 31 minutes ago, Junior98765 said:

    I would like to do it myself just looking for help with what kind of software to use to convert it to eps format and if there is any free software to do this 

    Inkscape is free. This is no entry level vector though. You'll soon see why people charge for doing this type of thing. 

    • Like 2

  15. All good advice.

    You seem most worried about the computer so that is probably your litmus test. Try one or both of the free vector art programs noted above and see if you can get a grasp of the design part. Cutters are dependent on vector designs. They are basically very simple other than gaining an understanding on creating them. If you can figure that out then the rest is not that hard. Yes there WILL be some connection issues initially when you get a cutter and try to get it working. Almost every new user goes through an initial freak session trying to get it to connect and figure out the settings but there are plenty on the forum who help get past those questions and once you're set up cutters are a true joy rarely rivaled in hobbies I have ever tried. 

    I would spend some time learning about vector vs raster images and watch some training videos (probably more available on Inkscape than on Sign Blazer but I have not searched for SB videos so I can't swear to that. Both essentially do the same thing as far as design goes. ALL vector programs essentially do the same thing they just label everything differently and some go about getting from point A to point B a different direction. When done the vector is a vector all the very same. I use a very painful-to-learn program called Adobe Illustrator and literally took an online college level class to figure it out so don't be surprised if you have to spend even a few weeks getting the basics down. Inkscape has many training videos and tutorials linked from the help menu and there are hundreds of how to videos that can help. Good luck with your quest and have fun. I find myself using my graphics skills in many other ways as well so the knowledge gained in the art side is a win win. Great way to spend lock down time for sure. 

    • Like 1

  16. There's nothing wrong with using the mac. For a trial to see it from another perspective do a free trial of SignCut Pro (they have a 7 day free trial) it is mac compatible so it should hook up and run without any problems. If it does this while using SignCut as well then you will have narrowed it down to a setting or mechanical issue with the cutter. If it cuts fine with SignCut then you will have narrowed it down to a setting or problem with whichever variant of Graphtec software you are using. 


  17. There are alignment tools in VM that will make short work of this. You may have some practicing to learn to use them. There should be options to align to top or bottom or sides and some distribution options to spread them out uniformly. Once you get the first row done make another full copy of the first row and remove one circle and it should be perfect to be the second row. Once you have these two just stack copies in and use the same alignment tools on the groups of circles you did on the individual circles. 600mm is what... about 24 inches So your talking about 30 circles and 29 spaces or 31 circles and 30 spaces. You only have to deal with the individual circles for a single row then you are dealing with about 30 more groups of them. If I was at my regular workstation I couple whip this out in about 10 minutes in Adobe and I'm pretty sure VM has similar tools. At least the upper levels do. Inkscape will as well. 

    • Like 3