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Everything posted by Wildgoose

  1. Wildgoose

    Who is your GOTO for Shirts

    Gotcha covered Dakota
  2. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    Can you test cut the SignCut opening graphic? When you start it up there is usually a graphic there before you load in your own. Pick a color and try one of those. If it works then you have something going on with your file. If that doesn't work then you have something set wrong in SignCut or possibly there is need of a driver. I thought SC had the drivers within it though. Dumb question but have you checked the "Cutter" button and made sure the correct cutter is selected and the correct baud rate etc...?
  3. Wildgoose

    How to add numbers to graphic design

    I have seen custom number sets available similar to what you are talking about slice. They weren't a font just vector designs to make race car numbers etc... To the OP earp4847 if you have design software or even rudimentary cutting software that came with your cutter you should be able to create your own numbers. If you don't have it try Inkscape, it's free vector design and capable of all sorts of fun stuff. There are tutorials on youtube so you can learn the ropes.
  4. I just take the job and decide what it's worth to me. So for instance say someone wanted 10 small decals that were 4 inches square but in a color or product that I don't stock. Say I spent $10 on a yard some premium vinyl so it would cut nice. and another $10 for shipping then I know the minimum material COST is going to be $2 each even though the 10 decals will only take up a third of the yard at most. Then I decide how much my time and equipment is worth. Say we be conservative and say $50 per hour shop rate and the job should take a half hour. So there is another $2.50 per each bringing the cost total to $4.50 plus 20% margin puts them at $5.40 per each plus sales tax depending on your locale. $54 plus tax and probably not worth the time it takes to do it. I didn't even add in for app tape and the half hour to do it is a nice thought but that kind of stuff can take twice that long real fast. Now you can see why me and some of the others on the forum just shake our heads at the idiots on pinterest that think they're gong to make their millions on stuff like that for $0.50 or a dollar each. Different story if you are doing 300 pieces. Then you can both cut your costs down and the price per each down and actually make a buck. The best part of this kind of job is when you suffer through it because you are trying to build clients and then they come back and want more. How many? they say 30 this time. You say ok. They don't ask for a new price so you bust out 30 out of the extra vinyl you bought and all in almost the same time you did the 10 and you get full price with no costs. That happens too so don't get discouraged. But the ones that say "so and so is selling them for half that" then I just shrug and say I have no idea how they can afford to, have a nice day. About half the time they still have me do them. Actually I have all but quit regular adhesive vinyl because the market is too tight and there are too many soccer moms with cricut cutters doing them for nothing. I mostly do t-shirts. Everyone wants a t-shirt and you get to make a little off the shirt AND the vinyl.
  5. I generally take a peek at where I plan to buy said vinyl, decide my minimum order and shipping and then know my actual cost. I divide that up into a unit rate. More times than not I charge for the whole piece whether it is a yard or 5 or whatever and any left over stuff I sell off later for pure profit. If it's etch vinyl for instance I consider it a specialty vinyl order and list it that way on the invoice.
  6. Wildgoose

    Laserpoint 3 or Titan 2?

    The ARMS system while sounding great is not something very many people utilize. I have a $3500 cutter and have only ever used mine two or three times just to see how it functioned. If you don't have a printer too then it's sort of a moot option. Some print on t-shirt transfer paper and contour cut those which is a potential. Printing on real vinyl requires an expensive printer. My journey started out with a budget cutter called a P-Cut which was probably similar to the SC2 or maybe the Laser point you are looking at (minus the ARMS) It was a stepper motor machine and made for entry level home and hobby. The L3 is similar and a great choice if you want to get your toes wet and see what happens. The Titans are a budget minded commercial venture that are trying to hit the gap between the lower budget starter cutters and the high end name brand machines. They seems to do pretty good overall and those with the Servo motors are going to run smooth and quiet. Tracking is still considerably less accurate than the name brand cutters though. The max cutting length according to the specs on the L3 is 180 inches and 300 inches on the Titan 2. When you go to the most chosen options like the Graphtec, Summa or Roland they don't even give it in inches because it's like 50 meters or whatever the longest roll is. The cost is considerably more for a name brand cutter but so is the build quality and reliability. I did the toes wet thing and learned a LOT before I decided to spend more cash on a better unit. I am grateful for the experience that I would NOT have gained had I went the expensive route right off. Budget cutters are much more finicky and require "fine tuning" to get good cuts. This is painful to experience but great training. If budget is not a concern and you can swing a CE6000-60 you would likely never need to do anything else. They will last you for years. The Titan market is middle ground and is better than the bottom but is the cost worth the difference? Maybe. The T2 is built pretty tough and designed with a business or starer business in mind rather than just a weekend warrior. Just remember that servos are better but there are also grades of quality within the servo realm too. Servos are pretty much like a variable speed without limitations to minimum movements. I think the Copam that Dakota mentioned had commercial grade stepper motors that were a tighter steps and built to last a long time. Just avoid the very bottom MH. It's sort of the doorbuster black friday cutter and they sell a bunch of them but they are very problematic and frustrate a lot of people.
  7. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    It WILL matter a little because if you turn on the software control you'll have to be sure the speed and force are correct. If you have those on the control panel I guarantee you have a way to zero out. It may be named differently but it's there. My budget computer I think I had to put in in offline mode to get to the right options. You should also be able to pre-feed your vinyl back and forth and move your cutter head over if you need to. When done getting it all set right you would zero out. Good luck and it would be great if you took the time to report back. You'd be surprised how often people don't and future searches just find a thread with questions and no final solution.
  8. Wildgoose

    Software in Demo mode... Help!

    SignCut free demo was always true cutting but maybe a limited max size. They may have changed that though. SignCut has actual people you can talk to from their tech support. Log a support ticket on their website and they will respond and get you going. I am a very staunch supporter for the SignCut team those guys are really awesome and their program will work on either pc OR mac so you don't have to be limited once you get it. I run the older Pro1 version which does no design work but is about as handy a cutting interface as I have used. With a lifetime dongle you can load it on any computer you want and just plug your dongle (usb key) in and cut. I keep in on all my computers so I never have to worry about any kind of crash.
  9. Wildgoose

    SignCut Pro pre cut feed

    I agree with Skeeter. Your software things the zero is 400mm in there. Set origin first and it should say 0 on both the X and Y axis. I don't know much about the Redsail cutter as to whether you control the zero on the machine or in the software. Some are manual some are only by the computer. Both cutters I have owned had could go either way and I choose manual. Are you using SignCut Pro 1 or Pro 2? I use Pro 1 and in Pro 1 you can click the scissors button and the page that pops up has a check box to "Use Software Force and Speed Parameters" this is the manual or not spot. If your cutter does not have a way to manually control force , speed etc then this may not even be an option for you anyway. The next thing to check is if you then push "preview" before you cut it will show you what your job looks like and the orientation and stacking if it's multiple copies etc. There is been a little video it will play showing the way the cut will go. Sort of fun. On the lower left part of that screen it will give you information about the size of your job and the size of our vinyl (manually entered earlier on the home screen most likely in your case) and at the very bottom it will show you the current position of your cutter which should be 0,0
  10. Wildgoose

    MAC not compatible? Plz help

    I use mac and Illustrator and interface with the cutter using SignCut Pro 1. They have Pro 2 out now too but since I do my designs on AI the added parts of Pro 2 are not something I need. There have been many that use the Sure Cuts A Lot Pro (SCALP) mentioned above. Just know that it is not the greatest program especially if trying to design in it. If you have access to AI and plan to continue to use it then that won't be an issue and you can probably get by with SCALP as a strictly cutting utility to talk to your cutter. If you go the SignCut route it costs money after the free trial. The free trial may only be available on Pro 2 now that it's out but it's still worth a try after you get your cutter and get it up and running for comparison. I ended up buying the lifetime dongle so I don't have to pay rent but they cost as much as your cutter will so you may need to stick to SCALP until you get some revenue coming in. Just know that there are mac options out there for the long run either way.
  11. Wildgoose

    font help please

    And an awesome concert!
  12. Wildgoose

    ORACAL 651 15" Vinyl now comes unpunched.

    I buy R-Tape in 15"
  13. Wildgoose

    Eye test needed

    Friz Quantrata Bold I think.
  14. Are you running the "Pro" version of Graphtec Studio?
  15. So what program are you designing in? Is there a glitch in the import of the raster image that is causing the character shift, is that happening on it's way into G Studio? Is there a reason why you can't import a vector image? Was it EVER a vector image? Was the font embedded or is that an option from the design program? No answers but maybe some things to consider. I am a mac user but do not print and do not run a Graphtec. There aren't a lot of us mac users out there. I run Illustrator CS5 on my iMac with 10.13 without too much trouble.
  16. Wildgoose

    Something a little stronger than Oracle 631 for wall decals?

    I did some personal testing with 651 and 751 and both came off about as easy as the 631 did. The glue residue being the only slight difference but it was not much either. Walls are really tough to install on even for experienced folks and the water based adhesive makes it that much tougher IMO.
  17. Wildgoose

    Cutting at the beginning

    Have you looked at the file in wireframe to be double sure that the file itself is good. Of you are cutting scraps have you told the cutter what size of material scrap you are cutting on?
  18. Wildgoose

    Cutting at the beginning

    We will need more info. What cutting program are you using? Is this on every job or just one? If it's not copyright protected up load the cut file in EPS format and we will take a look.
  19. Wildgoose

    Comparable font to LHF Scriptana

    I did a search and could not find any smoothed version of that font. If there are a bunch of different sleeve files (like kids names) I would just pick some other script font and go with it or if there is a front logo in this and a clash of script font's would look off go with something totally different. Most clients will get it if you explain the why and let them have a couple choices.
  20. Those are definitely ugly cuts and not what a Graphtec is capable of. You must have something wrong or a busted cutter. I use SignCut Pro and it works great with mac and Illustrator. Might be worth trying the free trial just to rule out once and for all any kind of software problem but I don't think it's software. Software doesn't get it THAT wrong, at least not on any quality cutter like the Graphtec. I would say you have something broken, loose or your pinch rollers are not over the drive wheels. I am not a Graphtec owner so the machine specific stuff I am no help.
  21. Wildgoose

    Cutting direction question

    Pretty sure there is a check box that will rotate the cut direction 90deg. I don't use SCALP either so I'm not 100% on that.
  22. Wildgoose

    quick help!!!! poli flex premium

    I have only experimented with a small piece of the poly-flex but according to the specs on the USCutter website it is fine on 100% polyester. Sorry for the late answer.
  23. I was reading through this earlier post and noticed the 2mm comment. That is a LOT of blade. Your Oracal 631 is 3 mil (or 3 thousands of an inch) that's only about 0.08 mm. I would try setting the blade depth just to be sure because even though it doesn't seem like it would matter it totally does. As Skeeter has said many times, pull the blade holder off the machine and set it so that it barely cuts into the paper backing but not all the way through. When you are actually cutting you should be just grazing the surface of the carrier but not be able to feel it from the back and you should be able to just barely see a gap from the actual holder to the surface of the vinyl when it is cutting. I lean down and make sure I can see just a touch of air almost nothing.
  24. Wildgoose

    So much out there.

    I am sort of a fundamentalist at heart. I prefer to do my own logo work from scratch MOST of the time. HOWEVER I would be totally lying if I said I don't also buy vectors and such. I have a large collection of design elements that I occasionally pull from when building. I like SignTorch's stuff. They do great vector work and are worth grabbing at least a few of the freebies to study their awesome drawing skills (as to the proper way to lay out nodes and radius work) I am an Adobe Illustrator aficionado but always warn people that it's not for the faint of heart. Great program and is mac compatible which was important for me. Many people find it confusing and I do not knock anyone who doesn't like it. Once learned you can pretty much build anything and it remains the industry standard. It's also expensive on top of everything else. Does it sound like I am almost trying to convince you to try something else? I can sleep at night knowing I warned you Many find Corel Draw to be friendly and there is Inkscape which is completely free. Pro level sign shops often use Flexi. In a nutshell there are several options that will do vector design and you will have to weigh out what is within your budget and fits your game plan. If you bought a cutter from USCutter they come with either Sure Cuts a Lot Pro (SCALP for short) that is the common mac option or Vinyl Master. Vinyl Master in one of the upper level versions (I suggest VM Pro) is a really good deal for the price and user friendly and is a full on Design AND Cut like Flexi or SCALP. SCALP will work on mac but is sort of sucky as to the design side. Some on here have worked with it and can make it sing but I found it lacking. Whichever program you go to you will need some sort of cutter interface (assuming you own and use a cutter). AI and Corel do not interface without additional plug-ins. Inscape has some sort of cutter driver ability on a rudimentary level but I don't know anyone who actually uses it. I would not even consider giving up my cutting tools, they're just too convenient. (I use SignCut Pro1 in combination with AI) I have rambled on long enough, hopefully some of this info helps a little.
  25. Wildgoose

    Hello from tx

    Don't feel bad about being new. We all were at one point. The people on this forum are helpful and generally friendly. I am a mac user myself. I use a paid program to interface with my cutter called SignCut Pro. I design in Adobe Illustrator on my mac and transfer cut files over to an older windows laptop to cut. SignCut will run on either platform but I generally keep the cutter in another part of the room so the windows laptop is just convenient. I like to watch it give me the blue screen about every other time I start it up, it's therapeutic. <sarcasm> My point is there are lots of ways to get the job done and many of them are borne from necessity or budgetary constraints.