Li'l Popeye

>>>Link to pinch roller assembly<<<

Yes, same as Brazil is near USA...

It's facing backwards because the USB cable is not long enough... It cuts just as good this way.

Here's my plotter with stand. Correction: the rolls are not plastic, but black alu or steel. The bearing holders of the rolls, that come into contact with the frame are plastic. My concern is: if I (and I will) place a grounding wire between the stand's frame (alu) and the plotter's frame (bolt), the static build up of vinyl will go through the plastic bearing holders?

I have not experienced any static issues, so far. But reading this forum, I must be the only one. Better safe as sorry, so I was asking.

Hi, I was wondering this, too. Some experience grounding problems, but the cutter is grounded through the plug connection with wall socket. I assume inside the machines the "ground" cable is connected to machine's frame? That would make that the machine is grounded. But as I understand correctly, the static issues is that the stand is not grounded? So a small piece of wire from stand's frame (aluminium) to machine's frame (steel bottomplate) would get rit of any static charge built up? Does it matter that the rolls that the vinyl roll is placed onto are made of plastic?

I have a KI-720. Offset setting is wrong. For cutting vinyl you need another offset setting as for the pen. At your picture on the right is for offset calibration. To me it seems that A-0 and A-1 are best performed. When performing this calibration process you have the opportunity to enter the values (A-0 in this example). And it should be all good. Set the offset setting for the purpose that you are going to use the vinylcutter. If you're going to cut vinyl, use vinyl for the calibration process.

Thank you, In this video I'm making decals for this minibike that I have sold to Norway. It was a Herbie themed minibike, but I have converted it into a Norway themed minibike. The video should start at the part, where I'm making decals. This was when I still had the Roland CX-24 cutter and the laptop with Windows XP and Flexisign.

Hey, I'm from Netherlands and I recently ordered from Wordans. They seem to have a UK based website, too: https://www.wordans.co.uk/ Good luck!

Anyone ever go-to https://www.wordans.com/? I recently got in my order. I was surprised by the prices as I couldn't find anything with same prices on the same shirts here in Europe. I guess they sell in USA, too.

Thanks, We have stopped with tractorpulling a couple of years ago. It was a bit time consuming... I recently did another job; a 2-color flex transfer on T-shirts. Material used is Siser PS easyweed. ^First design, cut and peel the material (Siser easyweed). ^First I pre press the shirt a couple of seconds at 150-160 degrees celsius. As I have seen that at Youtube video's, it is supposed to get moisture out. Then I press the black for just a couple of seconds (2-4 sec). Just a tack press, what I call it. ^Peel the transparant coversheet of the black and put the red vinyl? on. ^Last press; both black and red, 150-160 degrees celcius for 15 seconds. I set temp to 160, but it varies between 150-160. Pressure of this cheap press is hard to set correct, as it bends flexes a lot. If I set the pressure correct with a piece of paper, the pressure applied to a shirt is not enough. I have tried that with my first tests and the vinyl did not stick after the press, it came right of. Now I set pressure in a way that I feel resistance when I pull the handle over. ^I hope it stays on. I tried to peel it off, without result, so I guess it's good. ^Let's talk pricing (to compare Dutch/Europe price with US price): These Shirts: €3,65/each ($4.28) Siser PS easyweed: €8,60/mtr x 0,5 mtr ($10.08/mtr x 0,5mtr) $10.08/mtr x 0,5mtr equals: $0,0065..../square inch Black and red material used for each shirt: €0,95 ($1,11) Total material cost/shirt: €3.65+€0.95=€4.60 or ($5.39) That is without costs for labour and costs for machines.

You're right. Before I got my first vinyl cutter we had to go to a professional signmaker each time we got a new sponsor for our pulling tractor. Each time they had to make a design and the decals (read:$$$'s). That's the main reason I purchased the second hand Roland. When the Roland was in my possession, people/friends/family knew about it and occasionally they had a little paid job for the cutter. Together with the savings that's how the cutter paid for itself. I bought it in 2007 for €750,- and sold it in 2021 for €500,-. The Roland never was on a stand. The new cutter I have (got it of Aliexpress) was €234,14 ($266.79), incl shipping, software, usb cable and stand. I know it might not get near the Roland build quality, but untill now, the cuts do not disappoint me. And it operates with my new pc. I already purchased spare blades and a roll of cutting strip from the same website. I did have some (mechanical) problems with the cutter in the beginning, but fixed the issues. I also did a lot of testing and playing with settings like offset, blade depth, force, speed, pinch roller pressure, etc. If the settings are off, you run into problems. I already did a couple small paid jobs and bigger paid job (car and trailer lettering). So this cutter is halfway paid for already.

Ah! I'm a hobbyist!

Hello, I had a problem with my blade dragging slightly over the vinyl between several cuts. Like the blade/carriage arm wasn't retracting all the way up, between cuts. Blade depth was set correct. Here's how I fixed the issue. I noticed that the blade holder was not perpendicular to the carriage arm and with the carriage arm up, there still was 1-2 mm's left for the carriage arm to go up, but it didn't... ^Blade holder not perpendicular with carriage arm. This is the "up" position... I took my tools and opened the carriage arm assembly, to find that the little spring wasn't retracting the assembly up all the way. Also not possible to get more spring tension by turning the "spring tension" screw. ^Handle with care, these delicate pieces. Take good notice when assembling back together that it moves freely. While the arm was off I filed the slot, where the blade holder fits in, until the blade holder was perfectly perpendicular to the arm. After the arm was installed back on, I cut a piece of the spring and adjusted the screw in such a way that it retracts the arm all the way up between cuts. ^Blade holder perpendicular to the carriage arm after I filed the slot. Also the shortened spring now retracts the arm all the way up. After these "fixes" there is about 2 mm's more clearance between tip of blade and cutter strip. Blade is now: -not dragging and -not leaving cut marks between cuts. Fixed!