ShaneGreen

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Everything posted by ShaneGreen

  1. ShaneGreen

    Help needed! Applying transfer tape to large vinyl

    So a man named Ben Ayer had posted a video and I sent him a message and he sent me these pictures and another video. So the credit goes to Ben on this one. "Teflon cutting board from Walmart. 3” pvc pipe small board some felt and glue plus four screws was the cheapest way I found to do it Hope this helped" taper_video-1.mp4
  2. ShaneGreen

    Help needed! Applying transfer tape to large vinyl

    Sorry about that, seems the video is only available to people in whatever facebook group that was. And I don't know what group. I sent him a message asking if he'll make the video public, so we will see.
  3. ShaneGreen

    Help needed! Applying transfer tape to large vinyl

    I've been wanting to build this guy's version of a large taper: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351769568258253&set=p.1351769568258253&type=3&theater
  4. ShaneGreen

    Graphic sizes for t-shirts

    At 6' 7" I wear a 3X-Tall. Best friends owned a silkscreen shop until recently and they would throw an extra on for me all the time if they were doing something fun. It was almost always the same screen as they used for everything else and you really couldn't tell. When I would order for our volunteer fire department there were a couple of 4X and 5X, so they created a second screen with a bigger image, but it really wasn't that noticeable so we stopped doing it. Making a larger image can get to be a problem if you're doing multiple colors in silk screen. The weight gets to adding up. A 10x10 image is 100 square inches of ink, but a 12x12 is 144, nearly 50% more ink. You can really tell the difference. The shirt is already heavier and now it has all that extra ink. The bigger image also means a bigger sweaty spot.
  5. ShaneGreen

    651 White being difficult. All other colors are fine

    I'm sure the pressure reading is a relatively arbitrary number and not a true gram reading. However, from one LPII to the next it should be reasonably comparable. With the factory blades I was running 185g. Switching to the CleanCut I'm able to get much better precision and easier weeding at only 111g. The blades made a huge difference. It was like upgrading the whole cutter. But the type of blade won't make make a bit of difference if the depth isn't set right. Mz Skeeter's instructions are everywhere on this board and are worth committing to memory.
  6. ShaneGreen

    651 White being difficult. All other colors are fine

    I have an LPII, also and the same problem with white. The suggestions so far are right on the money. Mz Skeeter's suggestion of bumping up the pressure will help quite a bit. Wildgoose is right that the CleanCut blade makes a huge difference. Most importantly, don't let it sit. Weed it immediately. To test it out I cut a design one afternoon and didn't weed, cut the same design the next morning and then weeded both.....massive difference. The white definitely self heals. Even an hour or two will make a difference with white. It's not just 651, I've got some Green Star (USCutter's store brand 651 "equivalent" ). The white on it is the same way. Just last week I was on here pulling my hair out because 3M Scotchbrite reflective is so much harder to cut and weed in white then it is in red and black. I bought a lightboard off Amazon because I couldn't see the lines to weed it after less than an hour. Slightly interesting side note: balloon twisters have the same issue. Certain colors are much more prone to popping because the additives used to color the latex make them more brittle. White balloons are actually tougher. They don't pop as easily but they are harder to heat shape. So next time you see a clown making a bunny hat, remember that you have something in common.
  7. ShaneGreen

    Vinylmaster LTR size

    1016 is what VM has for my LaserPoint II, so that is probably a good number like Darkshadow said. When you "Send to Cutter" it shows you a preview on a cutter. It shows the dimensions of the cut just like on a blue print. Are those dimensions reading correctly? Now they might be off a bit because of weedboxes, etc. but they should be pretty close. Also, when you send a test cut directly from your cutter, not from VinylMaster, what size does it come out? What cutter are you using so someone with that cutter can tell us if that's the right size test cut?
  8. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  9. You're system would probably work better. Then I can make a registration mark that is more logical. The automatic one is 5 small pieces and that makes it real easy to knock a piece out of alignment. This white reflective doesn't stay stuck to the backing paper on anything smaller then about a nickle, you can easily slide small pieces all over the backing, so making a mark that is one piece would be helpful. As long as I make it their default registration color it will be cut on every page/layer/color. So that will save a few steps. Thanks!
  10. I wasn't referring to an update from Vinyl Master. Win10 itself updates files nearly everyday, as do many other pieces of software, all automatically. If any update is tying up your system or restarting certain drivers, it can cause communication problems that are nearly impossible to track down. It sounds like you're having a communication issue. The usual way to solve those is to keep eliminating any possible causes until it's resolved. How long of a cable are you using? Some USB can get very fussy after about 8' and start being affected by all sorts of noise.
  11. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Has anyone ever tried adding some sound deadening material to the insides of one of these cutters? I've got an LPII and the stepper motors are loud, but usually it's cutting so fast that it's mostly a high pitched annoyance for a few minutes. Sounded like a dial-up modem on crack. But now I've started cutting a lot more Scotchlite reflective. . .at 100mm/sec and two passes. What took ten minutes now takes an hour and the slow speed and thicker material gives it a nice dawn-of-the-dead type moan. I need to cut for about 3 hours this afternoon and there is no way I can handle it with this sinus headache. So I'm thinking of lining the top cover and the inside of both side covers with some sort of adhesive foam. Has anyone tried it? Does anyone think it will help? I can't afford to upgrade for a while so I've got to do something with what I've got.
  12. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Slice...this model has just a little room on the front and back under the hood. I had some 3/16" weather proofing tape that is 3/8" wide. I managed to get 3 pcs in the back and 2 in the front without getting in the way. It actually helped a little. It removed one higher pitched frequency that I had noticed I could change by putting my hand on the hood. After its done cutting today I'll pop open that right side and see what I've got to work with. I wonder if there is room under the cutting surface (the base) to add some foam? If I place my hand on it while it's cutting there is quite a bit of change in the sound.
  13. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Added some foam tape under the hood that covers the track and that helped a bit, but not much room in there to add anything. Dakota, I may follow your dot matrix idea and build a partial box around it with some egg crate. Darcshadow, that's what I've done when I could, start it and leave the room but it's not always possible. And today it would have been a mess! VinylMaster decided to cut each registration mark 4 times...@2 passes each for the reflective, so a total of 8 cuts for each registration mark. Needless to say the vinyl didn't stay in place and the blade holder started dragging it around.
  14. I may be way off base here, but at this point I'd be willing to try anything. Win10 does automatic updates and after it updates, other software will update to match it. During these updates there are two issues. The first is that they can really drag down the computer's speed and that could be messing with your file transfer. The second is that the updates may turn certain underlying programs off and back on to implement the update. If any of these affect your USB port then data stops transmitting. I really get in to outside Christmas lights and most of the controls are run via USB. If Windows updates during a light show there is a high probability that the data flow will be interrupted. Just turning off wifi doesn't do the trick because Windows starts throwing up warnings wanting to update and those can slow or stall data flow. Run wub.exe, a free download, on WIN10 computers to prevent the automatic downloads. It can't hurt to try. I'd disconnect anything else USB also: external harddrives, speakers, printers. Anything that could be stealing time from the USB drivers.
  15. ShaneGreen

    need help cutting vinyl decals by hand

    Haumana, you are so right. They hardly teach any type of life skills any more at school and the kids aren't learning them at home. Our son was a Residence Assistant in college and he had a ton of stories about how unprepared this generation is. College kids who literally didn't know that they had to go to the store to buy toilet paper. OMG! First it was silk screen vellum and now I'm complaining about teenagers! By the end of the day I'll be yelling at some kids to get off my lawn!!!
  16. ShaneGreen

    need help cutting vinyl decals by hand

    Does anyone remember the old days of hand cutting vellum for silk screening? I think the stuff was called maskease or easymask. A green gelatin on clear plastic and you had to cut the gelatin and weed it without cutting the plastic carrier. Then you chemically melted the gelatin to the screen, but I don't really remember how. For a while in the 70's and 80's a lot of the schools in Illinois made every 7th and 8th grade student take HomeEc and Industrial Arts. It was really a great program, at the end two years everyone, boys and girls, new how to cook, sew, create a budget, do basic wood working, draft and silkscreen. Took me nearly the whole quarter to draft the design and cut the screen for my T-shirt. Cutting that stuff was a nightmare but you were sure proud of your work when you were done. A few years later I stumble across "photo reactive masking" in a DickBlick catalog and couldn't believe how much time I could have saved, LOL.
  17. ShaneGreen

    MH720 (PIXMAX 720)

    Is it happening at a spot where the blade should be raising? Pinball machines will make that same noise when a bumper switch sticks or the diode burns out on one. The electro magnet pulsates at high speed and sounds just like that.
  18. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    I've got in three rolls of 3m Scotchlite 5100-85, the red and black seem to cut fine but I'm struggling with this white. LaserPoint II with a new Cleancut-60 blade (blade height set to Ms Skeeterz standards, as always). For reference, Oracal 651 cuts at 75-110 grams of force (depending on color) and 400mm/sec. The reflective black and red are doing fine at 400grams of force and 100mm/sec. Four times the force and slow, it's what I expected. But this white....500grams 100mm/sec and two passes and even then it's tough to weed. The next step up in speed is 200mm/sec and it won't cut cleanly at any pressure with that speed . The attached picture is what happens at 200mm/sec OR with just one pass OR any pressure below 500grams. The left side of the picture shows the front of the decal. It's an oval with a bison in the middle. The right hand side is the back of vinyl after it comes off the carrier sheet (the sticky side). So anything below 500gm, 100mm/s, two passes and this is what I get: - The front looks like it makes a nice clean cut. - The rear looks like a nice clean cut. If you take it off the backing, like in the picture, it separates right where it should. - The carrier sheet shows a defined indentation every place you cut. - Lots of trash builds up on the blade tip with just this little 2x3 decal. - It's hard to get it to start weeding and then as you're pealing it off it will rip. Seriously, it's easier to rip the vinyl then it is to weed it on the cutline. - Any thin sections won't stay stuck to the backing once it's weeded. Something like a flame is completely impossible. The other colors aren't doing this. - I have a 0.050 weed box around it. About 80% of the box weeds fine and then short sections will either not weed or the top layer comes off leaving the reflective bottom layer behind. I thought about putting transfer tape on it, removing the carrier and weeding that way to see what would happen. It would sure make multi-layered images a pain. Should the white be this much different from the red and black? Am I stuck with multiple passes at turtle speed? Any recommendations?
  19. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    I originally used the same blade height as the red and black, but reset it later. It did seem to need another 1/4 turn of the nut to leave a reasonable impression on the carrier sheet.
  20. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    Thanks, I'll have to check into that Ross blade. Yes, I bought an extra holder and CleanCut blade just for the reflective. I'm expecting to do quite a bit of it. That's why I was hoping to figure out how to cut this at a little faster speed. 100mm/s @ 2X is basically 50mm/sec so it will take nearly a minute just to do the weedbox on a 24x24.
  21. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    The vinyl just came in 2 weeks ago from Feller and the blade is brand new. I'll give 3x a shot and see what happens. Just ran some red at 400g 200mm and 2X and it was as bad as the white, it just got done twice as fast. 100mm may be the best speed I"m going to get. Repeated that test at 3X and it was good.
  22. ShaneGreen

    Wheel decal.

    Measuring a couple of images on Google it looks like the two smaller ones total 1.5X wide and the larger is 2.4X. That happens to match up with the Golden Ratio, so it's quite likely that's what they started with. If you apply the Golden Ratio to the 1.5X, then the two smaller ones would be 0.6x and 0.9x Measuring on my monitor is super inaccurate, but that sure seems to be what they are. If you look around on Amazon and eBay there people are making them in all sorts of ratios and total widths, so what do I know?
  23. ShaneGreen

    Feeding vinyl straight

    Ignore the lines, they seldom line up front-to-back. Place your vinyl against a line on the front that you can see and then have the plotter feed it forward a few feet. If the vinyl starts to stray, release the pinch rollers and adjust it a little. Repeat until it's feeding straight. The first hundred times it seems to take forever, but before long it becomes second nature. A few other useful hints I picked up from others on the board... - Never, ever, ever put your vinyl all the way to one side or the other, it has to have room to move. - Use all of your pinch rollers. - Make sure your pinch rollers are clean, top and bottom. A stray piece of vinyl (or dog hair, in my case) will dent the vinyl at best. At worst, it throws off the tracking. - Manually unroll more vinyl than you need and leave it hanging between the back of the plotter and the roll. If the machine has to pull it off the roll it will make a big old mess.
  24. Haumana is right, VM allows you to manually set the port: In VM >File >Cut/Plot >Vinyl Spooler > pop up window appears. Right hand side of pop-up has 4 tabs. Click on "Connection." Under "connection Method" I have "Direct Com Port." Then for "Settings" you can try "auto select" but it doesn't always find something. I manually set it to "USB Serial Port (COM5)". Be sure the baud rate is correct or it may just sit there and do nothing. My LPII is set to 9600. To find which USB port your computer is using, in that same pop up click "system" and then "device manager" in the top tool bar. In the new pop up scroll down to "Ports" to see what the computer has found.
  25. Both "o" of the eight and threes are cut in 8 equal segments. I'm with Wildgoose on this one.