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DavidHamp

Is there any good teaching dvds for laying vinyl

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Ok so i been cutting for awhile and have seen videos on basic cutting-appyling a simple decal but i'm looking to learn how to layer multiple layer/colors and wet app and laying on curved surfaces. I have used wet app once and it was a nightmare vinyl wouldnt stick just kept sliding around. I have a feeling that it was due to window not being warm enough or just low grade application fluid or just user error. I laid my first decal on a very curved surface yesterdat but ended up with a wrinkle in the vinyl i couldnt get out i made it look pretty good in the end but still. I want to learn more on how to do these things and I cant find any in depth videos or anythign on here with searching.

 

Below is the dirt bike plastics i did last night and the rear window i did that was a wet app that was a nightmare

post-38968-0-08082100-1365364603_thumb.j

post-38968-0-23715600-1365364618_thumb.j

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What kind of application fluid did you use?  Home made or manufactured product?  I have not been happy with my personal attempts at a home made solution.  Not saying it can't be done, just that I haven't had good luck.

 

What kind of tape did you use for your wet install?  If it was clear/plastic that is the problem - only use paper tape for wet installs and squeegee the heck out of it.  Then wet the back of the paper tape with application fluid, give it a minute to soak through and it will loosen the hold on the vinyl and let you peel it off more easily.  Here is an example video of how it's done - http://vimeo.com/50277048

 

 If the vinyl isn't sticking to the substrate, then you either haven't squeegeed all the liquid out, or your application fluid is interfering with the adhesive on the vinyl, or there is something wrong with your substrate (oil, silicon, Rain-X, etc.)

 

When laying vinyl on a very curved surface it helps to make relief cuts in the application tape to make it flex more and bend around the curves - also trim away as much of the unnecessary application tape as necessary as that leaves less to get stuck on the substrate and cause the vinyl to set down to quickly.

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Ok I use Oracal 651 and then paper tape Rtape high tack gereral purpose i beileve is what it is. The fluid i used was the ACTION TAC off Us Cutter. I had watched plenty of videos before hand did everything as described. Sprayed action tac on window wiped it clean before hand then sprayed more on it laid the decal. Squeegeed the shit out of it then sprayed the app tape let it soak as soon as i started to pull it off the letter pulled right off. Ended up haveing to turn on the rear defroster and using a heat gun before over the whole thing took me about 2 hours to do. Also before hand i heated to rear window til it was warm to touch. also i have seen basic layering videos on youtube leave a registration mark usually diamonds then layer on top but for things that need to be exact can I wet app them on to the backing paper or is this something better done on the substrate that the decal is going onto?  Great advice with removing some of the tape i actually wondered about that.

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I would never wet apply vinyl on top of vinyl as you're not leaving any way for the application fluid to evaporate.  You might be able to get away with it during the install process, but while it's still on the backing with tape over the top, it will never fully dry out...

 

I use large "+" symbols for my registration marks, it gives me more surfaces to line up and a clearly defined center point, but that's my personal preference.   I have done all of my layering dry.  If you keep your registration marks far enough outside of your design you can re-use your backing paper to expose only the registration marks as shown in this

.

 

That's how I learned to do it - now I don't even bother with re-applying the backing sheet and just go for it.

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This was actually my next question is it better to use a clear tape for multi layer decals as that you can see through it better than the paper tape. I have also read about the plus sign i will try this on my next one and try it out. I figured a large part of this would just be trail and error and learning first hand but the error part can be expensive and costly speacilly when your just starting out.

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