tshirtn00b 12 Posted April 12, 2012 I remember reading a similar topic a while back but haven't been able to locate it. My question is, prior to applying vinyl to an uneven surface that has hills and valleys (like the exterior sheet metal in the picture) do you need to modify the design in any way to accommodate the unevenness? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vinylmotivations 143 Posted April 12, 2012 It is usually ideal to use some sort of aluminum or otherwise sign panel to attach graphics to a building like that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tshirtn00b 12 Posted April 12, 2012 What about other uneven surfaces similar to that? Semi trailers and garage doors immediately come to mind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vinylmotivations 143 Posted April 12, 2012 Semi's and garage doors no... just need a rivet brush and some heat to make the vinyl lay over bumps and uneven parts. Corrugated sheet metal like above is another story. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tshirtn00b 12 Posted April 12, 2012 Ok. So getting back to my question then, does the artwork need to be modified in anyway prior to cutting? Or will it look normal (as normal as it could look) being on a corrugated material Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vinylmotivations 143 Posted April 12, 2012 I personally would not make any changes.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr12volt1338 116 Posted April 12, 2012 I did a Marina a few years back that had the metal siding like that. The only difference in the design is if you replacing the logo that is pictured you can't just take the overall measurement and call it good because the "ribs" had a lot of surface area so if the design measures shorter then what you cut it at. (I hope that is worded right) I used to work with sheet metal and had a cheat sheet that showed me how long the panels started before they were stamped I believe that is how I was able to get the measurement right. It went by the size of the ribs and it showed how large the sheet was before it was stamped so I counted the sheets used and knew how long they originally were so I knew how much vinyl it would actually take to cover the panel including the ribs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tshirtn00b 12 Posted April 12, 2012 Thanks 12Volt, that clears it up for me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jfought 120 Posted April 12, 2012 Thanks 12Volt, that clears it up for me i have something like to to quote this week make sure you measure everything it will make a big difference Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr12volt1338 116 Posted April 12, 2012 Also factor in A LOT more install time.. Working up and over all those humps is a pain. And if you are up in the air GET SCAFFOLDING!!! There is no other way of going unless you can get a scissor lift... Don't know local rates there but around here they are pretty steep Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mopar691 281 Posted April 12, 2012 i would add length to it on something that large. I have done several of these and when they are bigger they just turn out better if adjusted for ribs. Or if smaller watch your lettering and adjust the ones that fall on the ribs accordingly to allow easy readability. I measure out 10' of 3" application tape. Apply level across ribs and measure for the amount lost. Do the math then stretch all art that percentage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mopar691 281 Posted April 12, 2012 Also use cast. Air egress makes these a breeze. Bid it that way first. If they balk at pricing tell them install goes up as material goes down. And post heat all ribs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tshirtn00b 12 Posted April 13, 2012 awesome tips, thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
