Which machine is rite for me? Im sure you see this constantly.....

[turbobike1 0]

Hello, I am new here, and Im sure you see this question constantly, but here it goes...

Which machine should I buy...

I plan on making vinyl signs {applied to automative painted surfaces and glass}, I own 2 companys and I am constantly having things lettered, and having my logo cut {when my drivers drive the trucks down the sides of buildings and trees}.  My local guy has shut the doors, so I want to learn how to do it myself, I also do some custom motorcycle stuff that I had decals made for on multiple occasions...

I am in the middle of making a Jack daniels bike, so that would be my first project, I already saved some pics from the internet...

Anyway, Which machine and software do you guys and gals recomend..  I have a Sony Viao {about a month old} laptop that I would like to use....

Thanks in advance...

[NukleoN 34]

Do you need contour-cutting? How big of a cutter do you need?

I bought the LaserPoint 24" cutter (LP24) from U.S. Cutter for the contour-cutting feature, but I've not used the contour feature and don't know when I will since I generally need full-color printing in bulk rather than one-offs. However, the LP24 has done a good job for me, even with small text. I hear the Refines sold by U.S. cutter are supposedly better for small-text, but not sure why they would be better. If a cutter is working properly it should work as well as any cutter would. Either way I am happy with my LP24 with small text and complex designs. You can do contour cutting with other cutters too, it's just a little easier with the LP24.

I would get at least a 24" cutter, but you might need bigger if you're doing huge automotive graphics.

If you're looking for a really solid brand you might consider a Copam or Roland...more expensive but more features too and some better-quality components. The Chinese cutters work great but are obviously made to save some costs, which for me was perfect since I am just getting into vinyl cutting (and I love it..in it for life now).

[turbobike1 0]

Will I be able to take a file from ms paint and make it a sticker?  or take a picture from the internet and make it a decal? thanks

[MZ SKEETER 4,709]

only after it is vectorized and then send to your cutting software.

[turbobike1 0]

Will the software to vectorise it and send it be included, how hard is that to do? thanks

[Guest sciondrgn]

Will the software to vectorise it and send it be included, how hard is that to do? thanks

Inkscape is a great free program that can vectorize your images..

http://www.inkscape.org 

[MZ SKEETER 4,709]

Will the software to vectorise it and send it be included, how hard is that to do? thanks

you can learn it right now,  just download it,  free program..  plenty of info and videos in the inkscape thread here on the forum. 

[midwaste 4]

I agree with the suggestions of the LP24, although contour cutting is spotty, at best.  If I were to do it again, I might spend the extra bucks for the Copam.  24" should work pretty well, based on your description of your intentions.

Like speedoggy says, start learning the vectorizing process now, that is the hardest part for someone new to the vinyl world.

[turbobike1 0]

OK,  thanks guys i just bought a lp25 with stand off of ebay, $335 didnt sound too bad...

Im not sure when Ill get it but, thanks again guys, Im looking forward to poosting some of the stuff I do with the machine...

[Guest sciondrgn]

Good Choice!  Dont forget your supplies now Go ahead and get you some vinyl and weeding tools and app tape in so you can start playing right away when it comes in 

[turbobike1 0]

I have no idea what to get? any help will help....

[BossThinksImWorking 4]

For practice, you'll need a roll of vinyl (I use oracal), application tape, and a spreader. Oh, and don't forget a bubble popper tool and an exacto knife. 

You're gonna love it. It's addicting.

[turbobike1 0]

which vinyl is good to clear coat over, so on top of a paint base coat, and then I will clear it in and wet sand the edges out..

[Guest sciondrgn]

which vinyl is good to clear coat over, so on top of a paint base coat, and then I will clear it in and wet sand the edges out..

I have done this before but typically vinyl will shrink a bit especially out in the sun and it can end up cracking your paint/clearcoat.. Your almost better off just using paint mask vinyl and using it as a stencil to do your two layers of paint.

We did one with Oracal 751 and actually cleared over it, Orange paint, red vinyl then orange metallic flakes overtop the whole thing in the clear and wet sand and buff. you could still tell it wasnt totally flat and that it was a layer but it looked good.

Maybe someone with more experience in that area can answer better

[turbobike1 0]

Hmm, I had it done before and never had a problem, although you bring up a valid point....  I used to have a guy that did this for me {made the decals} but he isnt around anymore, thats why Im getting the cutter...  But I clear coated over a bumper sticker on my little brothers car, 5 years ago and it still looks like it did when I did it...

With the vinyl I usually apply the base coat, then the decals, then 4-5 coats of clear, hammering the last one, then after Ill wet sand over the decal until theres almost no edge, then one more coat of clear and you cant tell its vinyl... with text and tribals I think the vinyl looks better than paint, even with a stencil, now as for "real" flames and stuff like that you need an air brush, but that not cost effective, since Im not at all artistic...