randalle

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Posts posted by randalle


  1. I see that HT55 is pretty common for 631.  I want to sell some (631) indoor wall graphics... I wonder if the customer base would rather paper or clear tape?  Does any particular type of tape for this application stand out above the others?

     

     

     

    ....also, as an experiment - i layered some 651 on 631 and made some very large wall decals since I happened to have a surplus of 651 in the colors I needed.  Some of these are actually falling, nightly, off the wall.  Anyone ever experienced that?  it's only 2 color decals.  sheesh, I'da thought 631 was sticky enough to do the job.

     

    *put them up in 2 bedrooms.  1 bedroom stays cooler overnight, and those decals have not budged.  #2 bedroom gets way hotter, stupid zones!, and those decals fall off every night.  : /

     

    ideas? (don't tell me to adjust my dampers... lol... I've been farting with them all fall / winter.)

     

     


  2. I am doing some 10' x 5' signs.  Logo, which is purple (on top).  Lettering below it, which is black.  This is going on white polycarb, backlit.

     

    I had initially planned on going with 751.  Now I'm wondering if I want to use translucent for that extra % of pop.

     

    I feel like the black letters won't gain much pop from going with trans, will they?  I've done black trans on backlit before and didn't feel like it make that much of a difference.  Seems to me that black 751 on white / backlit would automatically have plenty of pop.

     

     

    opinions?

     

     


  3. Wanted to make some printed graphics that could be put on walls, and removed.  like a fathead deal, for my kids rooms.

     

    Is there such a vinyl?

     

    Or should I just print it with my Epson WF1100 on Sihl 3988 and apply that to some 631... then contour cut that?  Lotta work, but I guess it would get the job done, wouldn't it?


  4. I've also found that every design generally has a better weed approach.  One design, may work best pulling from the bottom right... while a different design weeds easier from a completely different location and direction.  Practice.  I've weeded thousands of designs and still... each one is a new challenge to figure out which 'way' is the cleanest / best / fastest.  This is obviously much more important on detailed designs.

     

    and I agree with WildGoose... sometimes the bandaid method is surprisingly effective.

    • Like 1

  5. Yes and no.  I paid like $45 for the t square it tool from Coastal.  I don't have nor feel like I need the logo tool.

     

    On the T square tool.  I don't use the piece that runs vertical.  ever.  

     

    I lay my shirt out flat and take the horizontal ruler and lay across the top of the shirt about 3" below the bottom of the collar.  Then i center it based on the stitching on the sleeves - this tool makes super quick work of this.  Then I line up my HTV with the center mark on that ruler and check it for level.  With a little practice you can nail 'level' about 90% of the time without having to lift and adjust.  This process makes my workflow quick and yields excellent results.

     

    The most important part of my t-square ruler is that it is "0" in the middle and goes out to 11" in each direction.  So say, lining up an XL t-shirt, I just make sure that each side of my ruler is at 11.25" to the sleeves from center.

     

    If you are on a super tight budget, you could just make one out of anything that would do the same job for next to nothing.  

     

    I found that the full t-square was a bit cumbersome overall.  


  6. Do you guys contour cut both of these?and if you do the jpss do you cut all the way through or do you just cut the thin layer?

     

    Yes I do.  

    I only cut the top, not all the way through.  And if the design is more complex than a square (guillotine paper cutter) - it gets contour cut.

     

    I use 4075 RLA as my 'mask' with these products.  It is perfectly suited for it and works great with each different type of paper / application.


  7. 1.  Gildan Ultra.  6.x oz shirts.  Comparable to Hanes Beefy-T.   Both are fantastic.  I alway use Gildan unless I can't get them, then I default to the beefy t's.

    2.  Gildan Heavy.  5.x oz shirts.  Cheeper, but barely.  I have had a few 'it shrunk' reports... so I only sell these if my customer understands and accepts the risk.

    3.  I avoid FOTL and Anvil like the plague.

     

    I have a new shirt I lay on my work table with "WELL" used shirts laying on top of it to show shrinkage.  The measurements I took last week for a customer showed that the Heavy shirt shrank an inch in length and the Ultra shirt shrank 1/2" in length.  I am comfortable with up to 1/2" of shrink over the abusive life I put a shirt through.

    • Like 2

  8. I was planning to build myself an exposure table/box for silk screening emulsions... now I am thinking I should make a lit table that can somehow do double duty. hmmm. 

     

    I like this setup a lot. How is it working in that position. I'm new to vinyl and so far I have been working on a horizontal surface without lighting. Registration marks are my friend.

     

    I started with a horizontal box with lights under it and just got tired of it.  I prefer the more vertical approach.  It just flows well for me when putting on layers.  Reg marks or no, the first time you layer on top of a light... you'll be VERY happy.  Use a diffuser though, I just used regular white paper.  Easier on the eyes.


  9. Microsoft tried to get cute with Win8.  Win8 is a phone / tablet OS that is being forced on the desktop world and it has been a well deserved flop.  MS hedged their bets that they could get more future users by having a consistent OS experience across phone, tablet, and desktop.

     

    Win 7 was FANTASTIC!!!.  I'll give them a mulligan on this one... I'm anxious to see what they do with Win9.

     

    (they totally botch every other OS anyway)  Vista ring a bell?  Millenium Edition?  

     

     

    I highly recommend this site if you don't have a touch screen capable Win8 machine:

     

     

    http://www.classicshell.net/

    • Like 2