blowndeadline

I know it's Kryptek, took me 5 hours to do in Illustrator!

For some reason no matter what I do one side pulls more than the other side and items become skewed. Any suggestions on how to keep the vinyl straight? Thanks Mike

What about this?

I have been using graphic software for almost 12 years now. When you save it's saved. When you close a file it's closed and start a new project. I can't tell you how many times I have closed a file and started a new one then saved but it overwrites the recently closed file! Kinda frustrating to say the least. In most graphic applications when you start a new project a new project window opens. In SCAL, the same name is there and when you hit save it will overwrite your project and now your work is gone. I have had to redo a dozen files simply due to the odd ball way SCAL saves and starts new projects. When you close a layout window in every other app the window is closed but the app is still open allowing you to create a new workspace. In SCAL, the entire program closes. It's a functional program but opening, saving and creating new projects is kinda poorly done. Just venting! Mike

Either it's not cutting or it's grabbing the points and snagging them to cause the issue. I've messed with the offset as well as blade depth. The parts are completely cut, just in certain areas it looks like the vinyl is getting snagged and causing irregularities. See attached picture. My pressure is set at 42, speed is cut at 200 and offset is at .60mm. Only reason why the offset is set at 60 is it works fine for avery yellow paint mask, just not oracal 7511 Thanks! Mike

This is what I am getting with the current settings: Pressure: 37 Speed: 200 Blade Offset: 0.45mm Overcut: 3mm I'm using Oracal 751 Thickness is 2mils according to the Oracal website http://postimg.org/image/6yuks1cxh/

Not to mention, everr time I cancel or pause the cutting the program is froze and I have to force quit it and restart.

No, I changed the blade three times. Set it back to where it was working perfectly for a different type of vinyl. Now that is screwy. As far as "trying to make it do something it wasn't made to do", I thought it was a die cutter? If It can't at least cut straight edges then might as well use a real scalpel! I'm very new to this, not 100% on all the settings, offsets, overcuts, pressues, speed and how they all correlate with each other so bare with me. Just trying to cut a simple graphic. It may not be a square but if I was cutting squares all day I would get a straight edge and xacto. I have already been through about a yard of vinyl, scraps and all and it still leaves jagged corners. New blade, light oil, set the depth a few different time, still no go.

What a nightmare! Now when I set it back to my normal cutting it's all screwy...

Ok, tried to mess with the overcut. Now at my last settings it's starting to make the text look cartoony instead of being straight. Trying another blade and some light oil.

The entire decal is 5" tall. Hard to describe the area exactly. I'm going to try a new blade and some light oil as suggested. I have tried several different offsets and pressure settings, some are starting to look jagged! How exactly do I add "over cut"?

I certainly don't Angie! I just make sure I save the file in different places now just in case something happens I'll still have a version !

The thing is you have to be careful when you open or create a new file, if you don't save you will overwrite the existing file. Guess I'm just trying to say that SCAL doesn't "act" like 99% of every other graphic application!

I created some digital camo patterns in illustrator. I exported them as an AI as well as a SVG file. Both formats import fine but the end result all my squares and rectangles are getting rounded ends. I slowed the cutter down to 200 and still the same result. Any ideas on what to try next? Thanks! Mike

Well, the offset is set at .60mm! It works, that's all that matters! Thanks for the advice!

Is there a specific setting for offset? Currently it's set at .30mm. Should I go up or down to test? Sorry, new to vinyl cutting but not new to graphics!

Maybe Each color on a layer? I'm new to this whole thing to. If Sure Cuts has layer you can hide then each color on each layer, hide the ones you don't want cut? Just an idea! Good luck! Edit: I just tried, you can create separate layers and hide each one.

I definitely need to read and watch a few tutorials regarding the setup and functions! Thanks for the replies, gives me an idea on where and how to start!

I am very new to this whole die cutting thing. I was tired of paying tons of cash for stencils and vinyl graphics to i figured, I'm a graphic designer by trade why not create my own artwork and cut my own stencils/graphics? I purchased a SC Series 24" cutter. I also purchased a roll of Oracal 15"x10' as well as some Avery yellow Paint Mask 24" wide. I figured out the cutting depth for the blade for each type of vinyl. I may buy another blade holder and set each one up for each type of vinyl, makes it easy to swap between the material. I am curious, how much vinyl should I pull through the back? I have tried different lengths and I always seem to waste 3-4 inches . Also, should I start the vinyl all the way to the right side of the cutter, under the head? I have also tried different positions and still waste vinyl. Any suggestions? Also, what's the difference between WYSIWYG and the other option ? Thanks for any help and or suggestions!

I've done quite a bit of pink actually. First attempt was bad. But then I started spraying a base coat of pink, flashing it at 150 for 15 minutes then laying down the final coat. Any of the lighter solids like white, pinks and yellows don't do well over anything, specially black like Glock, M&P, XD frames. I tried to cover it the first shot and it laid down way too thick, blast again and redo but saw it covered better with a base coat. Live and learn!

That's one thing about Cerakote I have no been able to figure out! Cerakote doesn't stick to itself but you can apply layers after it's been flashed. Kinda strange but it is what it is. I'm pretty picky when it comes to cerakoting. If i'm doing an AR lower, upper and rail if there is a missed spot or dust I just reblast it all. I don't like to mix up too much paint and then waste it, kinda the same but parts that are near each other I would rather redo them all so they match! Have you tried Avery Yellow paint mask? It works pretty damn good. Just need to figure out what kind of vinyl to use with sand blasting, then I'll be happy!

Avery Yellow paint mask works great

I use avery yellow paint mask, great for oven cured paints as well as air dry stuff. Leave no residue either.

Point me to some patterns. I can easily recreate them. I've been doing graphic design for years and can pretty much create anything in Illustrator! Send me a link to some designs, we can go from there!

I'm also new, when you guys say "carrier", where can I find one?? Thanks!