Truckntran

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Posts posted by Truckntran

  5. Posted

    I have used this for a while now and works great on large stuff.  I got mine from US cutter on ebay.  I just waited until I got it for  a low  price but all of the ones shown will work....

    http://www.uscutter.com/APPRoller-Tape-Application-Roller_p_79.html

    x2...but you have to remember to clamp the thing to your bench or screw it down if you don't want to chase your tape down the hall... lol. 

    Seriously.. well worth the investment, this and a big squeegie are MUST HAVES for a professional shop. Nothing against DIY, just sometimes biting the bullet and spending the $$ pays off.

  6. Posted

    Check out this post for a link to a good video.. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php/topic,4245.0.html

    If you can apply to glass dry it will stick better, I would still wet down the app tape after applying and letting it sit for a while, so it doeswn;t pull off the newly applied decal.

    As far as homemade application  fluid... go to forum search and type in homemade application fluid and you will find a lot of info on different formulations.

  7. Posted

    Use at least 651 or preferably better Oracal for starters.. Apply to a well cleaned window, Use alcohol and dry well, Use paper app tape, not plastic,  and Squeegie the livin daylights out of it. After you apply it and are satisfied it lays flat, soak the app tape with app fluid until it starts to wrinkle and the adhesive is softened some, then pull the tape. Pull the tape back over itself, not up and away from the vinyl or it will start to pull the vinyl too.  Sometimes it helps to wait half an hour or better for the adhesive in the vinyl to really stick to the window before you pull the app tape. Check out some of the posts here for homemade app fluids, and chek out youtube videos by Roger at Rapidtak for applying to glass and kold weather.. (Oops my 'puter lost its letter seee... ))

  8. Posted

    Definitely check out used cutters, even in pawn shops.. I saw an old Roland cutter in a shop in central Texas  a while back for only $199 that originally was over $1500 new.. but make sure you can bring it back if you can't get it to work or it is broken.Or, demonstrate the cutter before you buy it. .  ALso... lots of the older software, Signblazer is one of these, seems to work better on older systems using XP with serial ports instead of USB connections.. A 24 inch cutter is a great do everything size for most sign work.. A 15 inch machine only can cut about 12 inches in many cases, that limits you to using tiled layouts and it is a unnecessary pain.

    Basic stuff you will be doing in no time, and there is no limit to how creative you can eventually get. Good luck!

    And don't forget to charge appropriately for your work.

  12. Posted

    Hello. I plan to wrap my car in matte white vinyl but I dont what vinyl to buy.  I have looked at some web sights that specilize in vinyl decals but they want 500 or more for a 58" x 20' sheet, but I looked some vinyl supply place and they wanted only 750 for 58" x 50 yards.  What would be they diffence.  Also I also read some where else that is better to do a layer of semi gloss white and then an other layer of matte finish. Honestly i dont a single thing about vinyl.  I just know I want my matte white. 

    What type to I of vinyl do i need?    Wrap Vinyl designed for large areas that has air release channels in it.

    where can I get it?  Fellers or any reputable vinyl supplier that sells Oracal , Avery, etc products.

    how hard is it to apply? If you have to ask you aren't gonna be able to do it.. Not something thay anyone can do right the first time.

    how long will it last? Poorly applied a few months, right a few years...

    will it stain? most likely..

    Go to youtube and check out the wrap application videos several suppliers have put there..  I would recommend starting off with something a little smaller first than a car. Maybe a toy car or a riding mower hood, or a helmet.  Good luck! ( Don't want to come off as a jerk , but seriously, you are starting off with something that is really difficult.

  13. Posted

    I wouldn't apply it to window molding, rubber trim or any highly curved surface... It is designed for fairly flat installation, especially if it is the high dollar reflective that has a lot of tiny hexagons in it.

    I have applied engineer grade wet, again on something flat, with no ill effects.  One thing about either reflective, do not force it to bend back on itself or go around any sharp corner, you will find it discolors when bent severely..  For instance, the app method shown for the big squeegie on Youtube would be a bad idea...

    About half of the signs I make are on a yellow reflective background, and I am still learning how to do it absolutely perfect and bubble free. It is a challenge. Just when you think you have got it down something else goes wrong and ya learn a new mistake not to make..lol.

  14. Posted

    I'm going to do this. Whats the point of having a vinyl cutter without doing a large sign? I was thinking like 40-45 dollars. I'm just not sure what the best way to stack the two cut pieces together to produce an image with an outline? Any help?

    If you mean inches....

    I just cut the original and outline, put down the outline,and lay down the original over the top of it. If you try to cut the JUST the outline, it's harder but most of all, if you have any shrinkage later, it will leave a gap.

    and if your setup is like mine, the outline that SBE makes will not exactly match the letters either, and there will be some ugly gaps. Overlap is the only way I can do outlines. (Yes, even with a graphtec.)

  16. Posted

    man, i must be too cheap, ive done several back windows, last one was 45" by 10 1/2", white vinyl, only charged $30 and i installed, i never charge for install unless its huge,  i sell all my vinyl under 18cents per square in, for basic decals  and as low as .3 cents per inch on large jobs.  so what is vinyl worth for your materials/ labor nowwa days :thumbsup:?

    Yup, you're too cheap.

  17. Posted

    I found a reject mat at a local sign supply place and now have a 4 by 8 cutting mat for less than $75. I can't use the lines on it to measure but I don't normally use them anyway. Wouldn't hurt to call around and see if anyone has one they can't sell for some reason.. 

  18. Posted

    I'd be looking for something that can handle 24 inch vinyl, or larger if you can afford it.  SIgnblazer is free with US Cutter machines, and it will handle most of what you want to do.

    As far as which machine.......whatever you choose, google it and look for user reviews and tech support issues. If you go with a Roland or Graphtec you won't be disappointed but you WILL be poorer than if you purchase a lower end machine. In any case be prepared for some frustration hooking up to your computer, USB port machines are troublesome in many cases compared to a normal printer cable from an older setup.

    Good luck and welcome to the world of Vinyl. You might also consider doing your own design and getting someone nearby to do the cutting for you, some here will do that occasionally.

  19. Posted

    I have an older FC Graphtec I use SB with, I think I used the Copam 4500?? driver for it, as my machine wasn't on the US Cutter list of supported cutters with the US Cutter Download. Works 100 percent and you won't regret the graphtec.  I did purchase some new software the other day mainly because SB is going to eventually be obsolete if someone doesn't take it over, and I now have some learning to do.. Vinyl Master Pro...we will see if it was worth $160...