Desassoc

It actually wasn't too bad. A sharp blade and a hairdryer, only took about 30 mins per panel.

Here's what the client and boss wanted me to do. Since the original sign company overlayed the gold on the green, I'm going back and trimming out the center of the letters by hand, leaving a white letter with gold trim. Got a call from the client, and they are happy. Before After

The lantern at the top is not needed. Its part of the company letterhead/logo, but not part of the sign. The original sign (white oval) didn't match the style of existing 3 monument signs. They wanted more continuity between sites. Right now, I'm peeling the gold off, an leaving white lettering. I think they green they used was the wrong green, I think its oracal reed, which is dark in the day, but really bright (almost neon) when backlight. Would the green need to be translucent? if you redid the green with a trans tan instead of gold?

I have a band looking for their logo on stickers, I don

On my last project, I've had a devil of a time getting it to cut right. I'm using Oracal 751, 24" wide, and cutting a 3x5 matrix of suite numbers. Suite 101 Suite 102 Suite 103 Suite 104 Suite 105 Suite 106 Suite 107 ... and so on. It took some time to get the blade height adjustment right. The Right column cut perfectly, (through the vinyl and just scoring the paper) The center column cut, but just barely (just through the vinyl, had to pull it a bit in places) The left column cut too deep (through the vinyl and in some places, through the paper as well) any ideas? The cutter has had less that 100yds run through it since we bought it.

It is a new blade, and there is nothing stuck in it. How/what do I check on the strip?

I'm needing to cut some long skinny window decals. Measuring some ~14" wide by ~84" long. I am basically cutting concentric rectangles (leaving 1" of frosted, 1/2" clear and then a large central frosted area with a logo) I've run a few test cuts (using the pen and paper) and I get a misalignment of the squares at the top and bottom. I've attached the file I'm experimenting with. if it matters, it was created in inkscape, exported to EPS, and cut using signblazer elements. is it simply a matter of aligning the vinyl in the machine? or is it perhaps the paper, being a little flimsier, is causing problems. I just didn't want cut 7' of vinyl if it wasnt working correctly. DA sidelight Top.eps DA sidelight Top.eps

Gotta love google... There is one in this catalog... but I don't know if any squeegee is worth $84... http://www.fujifilmgs.com/filebin/Press%20Releases%202008/Graph%20Expo/New_Wide%20Format%20Finishing%20Supplies.pdf Found these from across the pond... http://www.grafityp.co.uk//Sundry/Tools/sundry-tools-main.htm#t19

I'm looking for a price on a simple printed color banner. I'll provide the artwork. They are wanting either 3'x8' or 2.5'x6', heavy duty, outdoor quality, to be use for fundraisers, golf tourneys, trade shows, etc. so it needs to be long lasting. PM me a price, shipped to 68508.

Welcome from Nebraska!

looks good!.. but the big black bar makes it hard to read the phone number

But, now I'm curious, what's bagapolooza? With the big red IV in the middle, I thought it was a blood drive, not #4 (and should there be a question mark on the end of "remember last year's bagapolooza")

IIRC Tupperware Party - tupperware + lingerie + toys = passion party.... sign looks great though...

Long story short. I'm not entering the sign business. Longer story: Why I'm looking: I work for a management company that handles elderly housing. They have multiple facilities and they want 'frosted' windows with different scenes, landscapes and such decorations. Some of their residents have dementia, and occasionally the vinyl gets peeled off. There will be the occasional vehicle/phone number, or office door lettering. but primarily it will be windows. A local sign guy quoted them a few windows, and they decided for that money they could do it themselves. About me: I'm a 'computer geek' I have experience with autocad and drafting, and cut my teeth on pen plotters. I also do graphic editing, and use software like Adobe Indesign (creating newspaper ads) Sketchup and Photoshop. What I know: I've searched, and read, so this isn't a 'which cutter' question. The MH seems to get frequently recommend, and I'll probably stick with that. Trying to decide between the 24 and the 33. Leaning 33, unless anyone convinces me otherwise. I've applied vinyl before, and watched the video in "Application of Faux Etched Vinyl on Glass" thread in this forum. I can handle the install mechanics without hesitation. What I need to know: What else will I need to do frosted glass images? type of vinyl, adhesive, backing paper, tools, software, clipart... That type of thing. I've downloaded inkscape, and should learn it without too much trouble. Ive attached a sketchup model of the type of thing I'm looking to do. This is a interior wall with windows.

is this a copyrighted image? It looks like a professional photographer pic.... looks good though. You could probably manually add some detail on the faces...

This is my first 'big' project. Client loves the graphic, I hate the install. Luckily I work for the client, so I can try again until I get it right, its not a 'paying' job. They are expecting a steep learning curve. This is the first thing bigger that about 12x12 (door logos) I've installed. and the reason they bought the cutter. I'm going to have about 20 windows like this to do. I used BGS 'frosted' vinyl. They don't like it. I need something 'whiter', but that still lets light through... Suggestions? The window is 72" wide. I cut 3-22" tiles and 1-5" tile. (24" vinyl) The tiles are about 32" tall. any advice on how to put it up better? I seemed to get a lot of crinkles and air bubbles in it. I did a top hinge, starting with the middle 22". I think it should have been a 2-man install. My seams turned out pretty good after I cut once I cut the overlap. They also want it about 12" taller, so it will end up 44" x22 tiles.. please ignore the glare from my bald head..

I like it...

Thanks, I did like the Oracal much better. A followup question, how do I tell them to clean the window? Will windex hurt the vinyl? I know it took the adhesive residue off the window pretty easily...

Update... Thanks for all the advice The wetter the better... I had a second pair of hands, and used homemade solution. This set turned out a whole lot better. The client wanted more contrast and wanted it taller. The highest tree is 42" from the bottom of the window. I ordered some Oracal Trans in light gray, and perfect tear medium tack. I think it turned out much better. I still need some practice seaming, some of the strips have a gap the width of an x-acto blade, but most I got closed. You can only see them if you're looking, and you catch the light right. and yes, it is a lot of weeding... some of the pieces (the shrubs by the house) are less than a grain of rice.

I have a client who is unhappy with their current vehicle lettering. It is on the paint (the car door) and the the car gets washed frequently. They have a 15 passenger van to redo as well, with the same problems. (it gets powerwashed weekly) If you look at the gold metallic, it has chipped and broken in a few places (like the top of the 'n' 'd' and 'e' and the bottom of the 'I' in this picture). I think the lines are too fine. They are about 1/16" wide, or a little less. I don't know what material the previous installer used. When I redo the logo, they want to use only the green. (not the gold). I was also going to bold the lettering a bit to give the more strength to the letters. They asked about covering the whole design with a solid sheet of transparent vinyl as well. Is that a good idea? I was looking at ORACAL but was unsure about selecting 641, 751 or 951. What is the practical difference between grades? There is a huge price difference between 641 and 951. The surfaces are basically flat, (no rivets or texturing)

I've never done anything wet... I'll have to look into it that procedure.

I looked at the autotiling, but it was only giving me the option for 1 tile. (which it automatically sized) I'll have to look into it deeper this afternoon as I have time. luckily I'm not in a huge rush to get them done, I just need to know how to do it once they say 'you'll have those done tomorrow, right?'

I didn't see anything about tiling, but there was a setting to either 'minimize cutter movement' or 'minimize vinyl movement'

Thanks bunches, I'll look into tiling and see what elements can do, until I get flexi.

most likely, perhaps 48"x68" cut as two 24"x68" strips. The intent is to have the majority of the glass area frosted, with a design of some type in the middle. I havent worked on the actual design yet, but I do have several larger windows to do. windmills, trees, nature scenes. it might just be a scene across the bottom half, in which case I'd strive to keep it under 24" tall. I ordered the 33" model, but only have 24" vinyl at the moment.