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60 degree blade with 200 pressure and it cuts great. Only need to poke it out after that and nice clean lines.

With the .25 the cutter works a lot better. The documentation said it came with a 60 degree blade but they look like some 45's we just ordered. But, on small letters I am still getting a little pig tail on the closeouts. Not always, but frequently. On larger stuff it cuts pretty good.

The tag may not be in the center. T-shirts are unstable and often are not perfectly made and are not perfectly worn. We just got 20 shirts in that were already screen printed. Our job was to put names on the back for a softball tourney. We found out that the screen prints were 2" off center and varied over an inch from the collar. You would never notice how far off these were unless you measured them. Your biggest challenge will be getting it straight rather than centered.

If you don't need any hand holding then 1 and 1 is inexpensive and you get a lot for the price. If you want American customer service then Go Daddy. If you want plug'n'play for a price then use Yahoo! We use both GoDaddy and 1 and 1. Go Daddy is a better service and product but much more expensive.

I had the same problem with XP and a usb. Switched to a serial card and all the problems went away.

Can I do it with the 45 degree blade or should I use the 60? Also, what pressure should I use?

Thanks for the explanation. Now the only thing I need to know is if my cutter has 45 or 60 degree blades. All posts here say 45 but the documentation that came with the cutter says 60. Laserpoint 24

Windows XP, SB, LaserPoint cutter and USB. All running on a fujitsu notebook lifebook 6210 When I run a 48" by 19" cut job the software hangs part way through. I slowed it down to 20 and it completed the job. I moved it back up to 30 and the same thing happened. The cutter displays 'waiting' and SB looks like it is doing something, consuming 99% in the task manager but the 'sending to cutter' box is just sitter there with the progress bar not moving. Thoughts? BTW, this is my second cut job, The first went really well but was only 1 foot by 9 inches with small lettering so I had slowed it down to 10 for that one.

I was asking rather what the number meant. If I put in .25, which way is that moving and how was that calculation arrived at? If I were to use a 60 degree how would I arrive at an offset?

We just did some for a karate club. I just traced their symbols in Corel and then cut them for their shirts.

My instructions said 60 degree also, that is why I am asking. I purchased some 60's local and they seem to have a different angle. I just ordered some 45's from USCutter so I will see if they are the same.

Is this correct?

Blade Offset adjustment in the cutting software. I have been working with that starting today. I also did a little work with the hardware, blade depth and pressure. I have tried .10 and .25. It is still a little off but getting better. So the question is, what does the offset mean/do? When I put in a value, what is that actually doing?

I just cut 20 copies of a shirt back design that was fairly complicated and at 12x12 it took a while so I am happy with that. Now, I still have the 'not closing cuts' issue with small items like lettering under 1/4 inch (as he ducks!)

I added a serial card to my notebook and no problems so far.

Well, I have been using my notebook computer for my plotter but it just has a lot of issues. Using the USB and the limited graphics memory is really slowing me down. And to make matters worse, my favorite computer store, PC Club, shut down a while back. So, I need a recommendation of a PC. Not only a brand like Dell, but a particular model. Here is what I want: Fast front side bus 7200 RPM or better HD Video graphics card with lots of memory Large capacity for RAM. It doesn't have to be pretty but it does have to scream. I was thinking a gamers pc might be something to look at since it would have a good graphics card and memory but I am not sure. I haven't purchased a desktop in a long time and the last 4 I built myself. So, suggestions on a brand/model? Also, any thoughts on components?

Our main hummer is a 3GHz Pentium 4 and I have a smoking hot video card with a lot of RAM on it. It all sits in a Thermaltake tower with quick install bays and a giant power supply and 7 variable speed fans. It came out at a time when serial ATA hard drives were not available but the motherboard will support it so I put a 7200 RPM HD in it and I have been very happy with the performance. The only thing I have had to do is to pull the side panel off to keep it cool enough. If I could find something like that then I would go with it. It was $2500 4 years ago. Yes, I am in the US, The Peoples Republic of California, to be exact.

I still do not have a serial connection but I have found that if SB won't communicate with the plotter then I can disconnect the plotter and reconnect it and it works fine. I also found that even if I do the work in SB completely I am still having problems. I am looking for a cheapo desktop to do the SB work along with a few other tasks.

If you don't have a sellers permit then www.shirtsuplier.com. Otherwise Sanmar.

I need PMS 376 in T-Shirt vinyl. Is there anything close?

If I want to do multi-color shirts in thermoflex shirt vinyl, can I layer it before application or does that have to be done at application?

Well, they were kind of hot. I rubbed the surface with a towel and then peeled. Will do the next time.

This is using a graphic supplied by those here.

I would it depends on how much down time you have. If you have time the machine is not running then any dollar you make is a dollar on the bottom line. If you are booked round the clock then you either raise your prices or only do your most profitable jobs. The shop we outsource the most to has a $40 min retail and $25 wholesale. We use them for printed vinyl. Now that we have a cutter we will be doing our own cut applications.

Thermoflex, 350F at 20 seconds. pealed cold. Next up wear and wash test.