smendlik

When I submit the bid to them I'll mention that is the price is higher than they are looking to spend I can provide a quote for printed decals instead and come on here for a price as I don't have that ability.

It's scary but I'm not letting that stop me. I just e-mailed the company to ask for a time-frame of how soon they would need the decals, that will help me determine how much I'll be able to do and how much I'll need help with. I'll be sure to keep everyone updated. Even if I don't get the work it was great to be contacted and given the opportunity to bid on the job.

My fingers and eyes are already hurting just thinking about the potential of this work!

That is exactly what I would do with the profits if I get this job. A major correction on what they asked for though. It was a hectic day and I was in shock when I read the e-mail he sent me. I just reread what he asked for an I completely misread the request. He bought one of my zombie decals and that type of decal (cut vinyl) is what he wanted, not the design. This is what he really asked for: 1) 500 of their first logo which is their name and a fishing rod, decal dimension would be 24" x 8.5". Almost all of logo in blue except for the word USA in red 2) 500 of their second logo which is their name and a fish, decal dimension would be 5" x 5". Almost all of logo in blue except for the word USA in red 3) 500 of their second log exactly like # 2 except in a single color of white I'm test cutting the decals right now to get an idea of the time to cut and time to weed. If I would to get this I would most likely want help as this would be a lot for a part-time one man operation to do. For #1 I'm thinking $10 each, for #2 I'm thinking $3 each and for #3 I'm thinking $2 each, too low? I just weeded the test cuts and the small decals are a breeze and are ready to go. The large decal will be easy but the graphic needs some vector work as the fishing line and rod aren't working as a cut decal as they are now. To be honest numbers this high are kind of scaring me right now but I'm trying to embrace my new motto of never letting your fears decide your fate.

Thank Jay. I'm not spending the cash yet but I've thought about how I would! $12-$14 is right where I was thinking, which may be way more than he will be willing to pay but who knows. If I happen to get this and need help this is the place I'll ask for help with sub-ing out the work.

Thanks for clarifying that formula, I've been meaning to ask. Following the mathematical order of operations the answer in your exampled would be $ 41 since it would be 38/2 = 19 plus 22 = 41 since multiplication is done before addition. If you wanted to put this formula into Excel it would be (L+W)/2 which would give you the $30

I'm still pretty new to this, especially the displaying part, but this is what I did for this past weekend. I was at an airshow with a group I belong to and they told me I could display/sell decals along with their PX stuff (we sell aircraft toys to support our airplane). I packaged the decals in bags and put them onto a pegboard. I'm working on making a 4-sided pegboard or slotboard display on a lazy susan to get more in the same space. Figured I would put a sign on the top to help grab peoples attention.

I love it!

I would have assumed that would be their position based on the purpose of their sites but when it comes to legal matters I don't want to rely strictly on assumptions. Thank you for the links.

I have a related question. I saw a truck with advertising for his business including the Twitter & Facebook logo to show how to find him on those sites. I know those are trademarked and protected but since the whole idea of twitter & facebook is to draw people to your online accounts are they legal to use when promoting for that purpose? I haven't researched this yet, figured I would ask if anybody has already looked before I spend time looking for an answer.

Nice work, especially with so little experience.

Nice work. I'm in need of some range time but need to wait until ammo becomes available.

I'm just going from memory here as I've yet to try this but I thought I read a lot of people use paper backed app tape then soak it with a wet solution, let it soak through, then peel the backing off. Am I remembering incorrectly?

Next week I'll be working up a quote for some window lettering for my mechanic (prepare for a quoting question next week!) and have a couple of very basic questions. I'm sorry if these have been asked a million times before, I searched and found nothing. 1) Is my assumption correct in that the vinyl is applied to the outside of the window? 2) I'm planning on using Oracal 651, will that hold up to weekly window washings? 3) Oracal 651 states a 6 year outdoor durability, does that mean that he should expect to need the vinyl redone in 6 years or is that just a conservative warranty from Oracal? 4) I was thinking of taking a piece of Lexan and putting text on it in different sizes then placing it in the window so we can see how the different sizes look from the distance he wants to have it read from, is this worth the effort? I've downloaded the visibility chart but was thinking a more visual demonstration would be helpful. 5) White vinyls seems to be the most frequently used and I'm assuming the light color is the easiest to see. My mechanic was asking for a dark red and I'm concerned it might be hard to see so i was thinking maybe white text with a dark red outline, is my thinking correct? Sorry for the long post and numerous questions but I tried to hit them all in one post. Steve

With this being new to me I think the lexan sample board would help me out to. I was envisioning putting a couple of holes in the top and getting two suction cup hangers so I can stick it in the store window and walk out with the customer to check out how the different sizes look from a distance. I do like the idea of the mock-up for final approval as it should eliminate any communication problems and ensure a happy customer.

I'm going to have to order the red that he wants so I could offer him a quote for 651 and one for 951 and let him make the choice of what he want to pay for.

Thanks for the feedback. As far as the Lexan display, my thought is it would be generic text in different sizes so I could reuse it for any future jobs. I was thinking it would help the customr (and myself) visualize what the different font sizes but I do like the idea of taking a picture and overlaying the text all to scale. I think I'll give that a try. I agree that if the customer wants dark red then that's what he should get, I would just like to offer him some sound advice so he can make an educated decision. The red text white outline is a good suggestion.

Maybe you can find something here: http://all-silhouettes.com/military-clip-art/ http://all-silhouettes.com/military-vehicles/ http://all-silhouettes.com/icons-of-military-technics/ http://all-silhouettes.com/free-vector-helicopters/

I tried using this film for the first time and am having a little problem. The film cut great, the problem was when I was removing the film, some of the paint came off of the surface. Little background...I am painting up an ammo can, I just recently sanded the surface and sprayed a new base coat. I waited just over 24 hours which according to the instructions on the Rustoleum can is enough. The white looking specs below are actually the bare metal where the base coat pulled off My thoughts on the cause are: Wait longer for the base coat to more fully cure Take the ammo can down to bare metal and use a primer coat Heat the film up before removing Maybe this film cannot be used on a matte finish Anybody use this film before or have an opinion?

All great points, another one is that i should have fully read the instructions... "Freshly lacquered or painted surfaces should be allowed to stand for at least three weeks after complete curing" Looks like I need to be more patient, and I'll try using warm water to help release as well. Thanks for all the help.

I'll find out, I sanded the box down to bare metal and primed tonight. I'll paint it tomorrow then let it cure for a couple of day then try again this weekend. I'll post back in case anybody else is curious.

I didn't prime it as I didn't take the box fully down to bare metal, I just scuffed it up to make a rough surface for the base to adhere to. I'll try sanding it down to bare metal and prime and see if that works. Thanks.

Looks great, I like the cleanliness and simplicity. Is this a new gun shop preparing to open? I live in Broadview Heights and would like to visit once they are open.

I was having that problem for a while as well until I realized I was cutting too far into the backing, is your knife depth and cutting pressure good?

You can get matte white and matte black in 651 but I don't know that it would work any better on that surface