RPM Graphics

black and white prove to still be the most popular choice.

Using the SignBlazer that came bundled with my cutter. Very simple software for what I am doing...

shirts are 100% polyester, so no shrinkage there. Vinyl is Eco-Film. Black is laid down with 1 second 'quick press' time. Then white is laid for the full 15 seconds. That time will seal both layers adequately. Results in minimal shrinkage of black during application.

SHIRT shrinkage or VINYL shrinkage?

EXCELLENT work........

VERY COOL!!!!! Would like to know what material you used. AND......where did you get the picture of MY wife on her broom?

Looks very nice.....

neither.......using eco-film from imprintables warehouse. Rider supplies their jersey and I print it. Or, I order extra jerseys from my son's clothing sponsor and then print them as samples.....All the #605 shirts are my son's.

Three new ones. Black and white still seems to be the most chosen combo. The 3rd color doesn't always blend well. This particular one does. Friend of mine suggested to have somebody model the shirts for the pictures, instead of laying them on the table. The lettering looks crooked, but it's not. I think the problem is the crooked model (my son's girlfriend).

Very nice variety......

Got my Pcut in october and love it. Using the blades that came with it which I assume are 45 degrees. Usually cut shirt vinyl, but have done more and more banners and vehicles/trailers. Have though about going to a 60 degree from clean cut due to all the feedback. Here is the big question. How many of you SERIOUS cutters are using 60 degree blades for EVERYDAY usage? Or do you use it for special occasions only? Thanks........

My new banner for the COMPOUND. My son (middle) and his 2 best friends from our Budds Creek motocross trips.

My buddy wants me to print on this shirt. The reflective material is sewn on. The logo will stay on the shirt only and not on the striping, but what happens when the reflective material gets heated. Using ecofilm 300 degrees for 10 seconds.....

Just used Shinerite for the first time, just because I have a 100' roll. Still figuring out the cutter settings, but application went well. Did both wet and dry just to see......

Has anybody ever used a clearcoat over vinyl. I have a guy who wants to me cut some vinyl decals for some corn hole boards. But I'm sure the graphics would get beat up, so I figure they need to clearcoat the boards after the vinyl application. Who can shed some light? Thanks....

Oh yeah, that logo is my design. That is the extreme for me as far as creativity.

Already searched and came up with inconclusive information. Has anybody used Shinerite REGULARLY with good results. I have a 50yd roll of white that came with the 2nd hand business that I bought. No sense in letting it go to waste. Gonna try some vehicle lettering with it. Not sure what particular model it is other than it is very glossy.

Here is the first job with the shinerite. Still figuring out cutter settings. Application went well, both wet and dry. Tried both just to see.

Thanks. Doing some trial and error getting the correct blade depth and pressure.

I finally got around to re-lettering my back window after it broke. Also did double sided 2' x 3' corraplast for the bike shop that sponsors my son's motocross racing. Application went better than the last two.

OOOOOOPS is right. Here are the signs on the doors. Tried drilling into the concrete building front did not go so well. Just so happens that the door panels were 24" tall,,,,,just right. Now I need to make one for the Battalion Chief who is assigned to our quarters also. He was kinda pissy that we left him out.

Note to all you US Cutter board posters. If your Chevy Tahoe is in the garage and the tailgate is up while you are loading stuff in the back for the motocross weekend, DO NOT move your truck. Your back window will hook onto the garage door and shatter EXPLOSIVELY, thus having to do the lettering again.....

First attempt at corraplast signs. 2'x3'. Will need to figure out how to deal with the ridges in the surface. A few bubbles and creases. But they will be 20 feet above the ground. They will be mounted above the garage doors for the engine and ladder truck of the firehouse where I work.

Jason, I am using signblazer like Sandy, sorry can't help you out. Sandy, Here you go, directions for the split outline (that's what I call it) 1. Let's take Truck 706 for example. Type your text (truck). Then make a completely separate entry for the number 706. 2. Line them up and get them centered and adjust the width and height so they look proportionate. 3. The click and drag the cursor so it selects both the text and number as one item and click 'combine' in your toolbar. Now truck 706 is one piece and make it green. resize the whole image to 30"wide x 20"high. 4. Single click truck 706, and then click manipulate, then click expand, outline, inline. 5. Then click all of the following.....outline, keep original and overlaps. 6. set offset at .40 and thickness at .40 and then hit ok. Let me know how that goes..........Pat...... ps...that may not be the best explanation , but in my warped mind it works.

Sandy, I will PM you tomorrow from home. It is very simple and I use it all the time. Especially with shirts so the lettering will only be one layer.