HybridThread

I have never personally had issues with any brand. How old is the vinyl that you're having issues with?

I have never heat transferred on neoprene but it can withstand high temps (don't go over 400 F). I have heard polyurethane transfers work well. Although the golden rule here is test, test, test. Some neoprene has other materials that don't like heat much (nylon for one) so make sure your material is suitable. I wouldn't use an iron either on this. Figure out how to get in on the heat press or try to find someone who has a larger one. Best wishes and throw some pics up when you're done if you can.

UV Printer works best. http://www.rolanddga.com/products/printers/lef/

Try file>print options and then check Print Wireframe Only then try to print to the cutter. My MTC software just updated when I opened it since I don't use it anymore and the instructions have changed for using a non listed printer. Instead of giving options to try and get it to work with the cutter it says to go to the site and download the plugin for your cutter. I don't know if that means they don't support non listed cutters non or not though. Let us know if anything works.

I don't know the details but you should be able to setup MTC with HPGL, or Hewlett Packard Graphics Language settings within MTC. Sorry so vague but I have never had to use this before. Hope that can get you started.

You will also more than likely need to use an adhesive carrier backing sheet to cut on. I don't believe Mylar comes on any backing and doesn't have the dimensional stability to be cut without one. Here's a few that uscutter carries. If these don't work you can find others elsewhere that should work. http://www.uscutter.com/Craft-ROBO-PRO-Carrier-Sheets-2-Pack http://www.uscutter.com/Replacement-Carrier-Sheet-for-Graphtec-Craft-ROBO-CC100-CC200-Silhouette-2-pk http://www.uscutter.com/Replacement-Carrier-Sheet-for-Graphtec-Craft-ROBO-CC330L-20-Silhouette-2-pack http://www.uscutter.com/Silhouette-CAMEO-cutting-mat-12-x12-12-x24

They should wipe them down with a damp and only just damp cloth and let dry. Also what transfer tape do you use. I assume you use the Oracal HT55 made specifically for 631. Just checking the obvious. I have never used a hair dryer before but it may get hot enough for what they're doing. Let us know how it goes in the end.

Without being there to install it's hard to know the reason. The temp could have allowed condensation to get under the decal when they brought it inside from the cold. They may also touch their wall a lot and have a lot of oil soaked or built up on the wall. I see the "haze" on the black decal and it looks like its from them rubbing the decal over and over to get it to stick. When I have these issues I use flame. Either and lighter if size permits or a big Bernzo TS4000 propane torch. A heat gun will work as well. Also be careful if you use a lighter as it can leave black carbon all over the wall if not done right. Keep in mind you should never let your customer do this or even recommend it as far as I'm concerned. Even without knowing the cause of your issues heat should take care of it. I do this with 631 all the time, just be careful and practice first, but not on the customers wall. Not sure what to do if you can't go there in person. I don't do any large wall decals unless I can install for them usually. I've been looking at that "haze" it has to be scuff marks from rubbing all around it. I see it a good bit from people installing for the first few times. I'm with OW on the stain resistant paints. If you haven't asked them about that you need to. As far as I know there isn't much you can do if that's the paint, besides heat.

Roland with OEM Roland eco Sol max inks always.

Congratulations!

May be something like this? http://www.uscutter.com/ORACAL-ORAJET-Series-3105HT-High-Tack-Calendered-PVC-Digital-Media-54-by-50Yd-Roll It's high tack made for low energy surfaces. Equipment like what you're talking about fits this category since they are powdered coated usually, not painted. If this isn't going to work for you then find the media that suits you and make sure the adhesive is formulated for low energy surfaces. Because of the printers you use these won't hold up as well outdoors if in direct light. Try an up-sell in quantity. Since no sticker is un-removable or tamper-proof have 2 on each piece of equipment. One visible, and one out of sight so it can be found if recovery is ever needed. Plus more money for you!

Keep in mind that a roll of vehicle carbon fiber wrap vinyl (which you would want to use for this) is going to cost more than an SC cutter. If you can you should upgrade your cutter so you don't have to worry about tracking so much.

When cutting vinyl you shouldn't need the cutting mat.

Depending on the size it will want to wrinkle real bad since it's got curves. I use a torch to shrink and form the vinyl to the pumpkin. Alternately you can use a heat gun, I wouldn't use a hair dryer personally since it doesn't get hot enough generally. Don't cook the pumpkin though.

Well that image is about as useful as no image at all to be honest. But from what I can see you can easily re-make that. Just match the text, you should have those fonts already and then get your pen tool out and make the Q and dinosaur. You can also trace the Q and dino and then clean it up if that's easier for you. That picture won't help us help you though.

Unfortunately downloading anything won't help. You'll need him to send you the print out from his printer. That's the beauty of Roland's color library. It's printed directly from the shops printer so you know exactly what color you're getting. If you just download the library it won't display the correct printed colors, and if you print them on your printer they won't be the same either since every printer and ink combination prints differently on the given media.

Send him to me of course. Or you could post the raster and the great members here will vectorize or at least get you started. As for how to do it yourself you will need software (i.e. Illustrator or the like) and learn how to trace or use the pen tool as in Illustrator and re-make it. I prefer to always re-make the image. Tracing is hit or miss depending on various variables. Also know that when tracing it's almost always going to be best to remove the traced text if present and add text yourself since traced text doesn't come out well for the most part.

Go to his shop and bring the color, or truck you need to match so they can match it. You should also be able to request the color library and he can print one in various sizes for you.

If you are concerned about having to adjust your blade for different materials just purchase more blade holders and set each one for that material.

To actually answer some of your questions, yes you can use the carrier sheets to cut paper on the MH. Never used a cricut so I don't know how it compares to the MH. And as you probably already know, make the cut will work with the MH, awesome software too. As for the serial adapter, it caused me a lot of issues. For me (and appears to be only me) USB is flawless. I've cut some huge files no problem from USB only on my laptop, may be I'm lucky, although I believe it's all in the correct setup.

How many letters are there, and are the letters 4 feet tall or just the over all design?

I am with Hoss on this one. It doesn't matter if you guys don't need or want the ruler on the machine. It is suppose to be there and it should be. If the transcript he posted is accurate then Hoss was very nice as was the rep, but, the rep didn't even understand what the ruler was (09:22General: I am not aware of any rulers on any MH models.) and then stated towards the end that they knew the product very well. This clearly shows that-that particular person does not know as much as they say. The way I see it from a customer service point is they should have just sent the adhesive rulers, yes rulers not hash marks (i'm looking at my MH-871-MK2 right now) with limited questions. My reasoning is that it's sticky rulers, who tries to cheat a company out of something so small? It would be different if he said the cutter didn't come with a main board and the steppers were missing. Now with all that said I still trust uscutter and while I'm sorry for your issues don't let this one rep stale your relationship with uscutter as a whole. They offer great products, and good prices with excellent shipping times and rates. Why are you guys saying the rulers don't matter? Anyone with an MH that cuts anything longer than 20" or so knows the rulers do help. The MH isn't exactly known for its superb tracking over distance. You can't compare a Graphtec to this issue either. Of course a Graphtec doesn't need the rulers like the MH. My Roland doesn't have rulers either, because it doesn't have tracking issues, same as the graphtec. The MH, ya, it needs something to help check tracking. Tape would work yes, but when the product is suppose to have something on it, it should. It's not like this Hoss guy started yelling at the rep like a lot of these whiny customers. Anyways this is my opinion on the matter. I really think you guys are being overly harsh.

Most atvs and dirt bike plastics are made from low energy plastics, meaning regular vinyl doesn't stick to well. Teflon is an example of a type of low energy plastic. It will stick but not well and won't last. They make specific vinyl for low energy plastics. Convex is an example, I've never used it myself though. There are also many other companies that make it as well. So for cut vinyl I would definitely use vinyl made for low energy plastics. If it were me I would print the reaper on clear vinyl so it looks the same, but without the sharp pieces and edges that can lift. If it's just going to be on for a day or 2 though any vinyl should be ok. Make sure to clean and wipe the plastics with rubbing alcohol and let dry before installing.

You can cut paper with that machine but for best results cutting paper you should always use an adhesive carrier sheet. Like the ones used with cricuts, sihouette cameos and the like. The carrier sheet will allow very precise cuts in paper and save wear on your cutter.

Definitely got to keep it clean.