Snapper

No if you farmed it out you'd not need to purchase all the paint. You pay by the square foot. Not knowing the size of the sign can't give you a ballpark. But you'll still have to shell out a bit of coin for the translucent not as much as paint by far. Now you'll have fun laying the yellow background. Go to the manufactures site and get their wet application mix and having a friend or two to help will make it go easier. The sign will have retainers that you need to remove once you do you can remove the face. As madscotthandyman mentioned. Also remember to cut back the yellow 1/8" from the edge of the panel and lay down a layer of clear 2" tape over the yellow around the perimeter to protect the vinyl from scratching and making holidays. Anyway have fun and post some photos when you get it done.

I've shot thousands of square feet of plastic. Back painting is... you take your clear lexan spray grip mask on the inside surface and let dry. Make your pattern and attach on front. Set in front of a light source and x-acto in hand and cut. I'd shoot the red lettering first. Then you need to spray another coat of grip mask. ( Why?... you ask. Well red and yellow make orange so you can not just shoot right over it or it'll be orange when lite. ) Pull background after 15 minutes else you'll be re-cutting. Next shoot yellow .The trick to a good spray job is light coats and the white final coat. The truth is if your not into this for the long haul just have a wholesale shop do it. Just send them your design. The paint and thinners are expensive and so is the proper equipment and breather. The three colors plus thinner and mask will run over $350.00 and lets not forget the plastic. You'll be ahead of the game and have a proper job if you just farm it out. Or have them pick colors that you can just cut and place on white lexan. Even with a good respirator the smell of that paint will make your head spin.

If you go to the vinyl manufactures site and look about you'll find what they recommend. From Arlon Handbook. 3 tsp (3 ml) clear, liquid detergent 1 gallon (4.54 litre) water 3 tsp (3 ml) IPA From Oracal FAQ. (Recommended ingredients for wet application fluid: one tsp. of traditional Joy® or Dawn® dish detergent to one quart of water. Detergent should not contain moisturizers, lotions, or bleaching agents.)

I agree. Your less then a .25% in ground.... I know you don't have to deal with frost line but a mild breeze will have that listing in a few months. Should be a least 36" to 42" deep 6" hole... three 80lb sack split between them. If your bedding the poles in concrete then 10" hole mini.

I don't sell stickers nor decals. I sell signage and identification.

I made a Big Ol' Squeegee from a 6"X20"x1/4" piece of Teflon. Beveled one edge and added a bull nose.... works like a dream. Have not made a cradle... most like won't as I have just let the roll ride on the front edge as it unrolls.

Most marine vinyl upholstery has a coating to repel water. Just sell them a new blank with whatever they want on it and call it a day.

I'll bet the metal strip the holds the belt end to the head is running into the cog sprocket. Do not recall the fix at the moment... but was either adjust the limit switch or adjust the head on the belt. But one or the other fixes it.

So it's not auto running? If that's it just go to my computer select drive that disk is in click expand select install. It should start up. I have a few programs that for some reason fail to auto start but load ok when I do this.

I always do the sign in reverse... be it hand lettered or vinyl.... unless the window is tinted. When placed inside it is protected from prying hands. You have to pay more attention to prep and installation when doing it inside as a poor install is more noticeable. I believe that is the reason many just slap it on the outside of the glass. Also the outside of the window gets washed four times as often then the inside... so more likely to start rolling an corner. So inside with acceptations when required.

Don't know what you working in. Can be done in shadow mode in flexi by setting offset. One way... In any program just make a outline around your text the same as back ground then add shadow. Weed outline and waste you'll end up with the effect you have posted. If you post the program your using. I'm sure someone will be along to tell you another way to do it soon.

I'd use celtic it's a PVC material...can be cut with a utility knife if needed. I'd lay it out with 9 panels 45" long 3 wide and lay vinyl then cut them apart peel tape. That way I would not have to handle each piece twice. Celtic sheet can be had for a 1/3 the cost of plex and for dock number would be more impact resistant. Can also be purchased in colors so that would turn it into a simpler cut job.

I thought your desire was to make positives to expose screens to print with.... or did I read the post wrong?

If your looking to make screen neg's just use a laser printer and print on transparencies for overhead projector. Lay on photo sensitive mask... place glass over it and expose to light. No muss no fuss just clean screen and go.

Not sure what cutting program your using... but check the settings in options. In flexi I can have it start cutting from the left of the graphic... the center or the right. The right would spool out the material and cut it into the machine. The only time I have to hit the Origin button is if I do a test cut and need to advance the material past that point.

Here are a couple not the best batteries were low. Will swap these for better later. It's made from 1" tube... 1/2 square and 1.5 angle four rubber cup washers screwed into legs for feet. The roller blocks are .5 thick Teflon the roller are pvc pipe with machined plugs in the end. They spin freely. The baskets are made of 1/4" rod bent into a U shape and push in and out. Sewed some fabric I bought at Wallmart.

If you have the plotter just take some measurements and build it to suit. I just built one for my Panther last week... made it as I wanted with twin basket a set of adjustable rollers, Think i have about 12 bucks in it total and 1 hour fab time. Going to build another one for the redsail plotter I picked up for next to nothing. If you like I can post a photo or two. Or you can go to US Cutter... Parts tab and buy a ready made stand for sixty give or take ten..

Take one legs... remove roll holder flip it to other side and see what you have. I'm sure they are the same but flipping should mirror other side. That's why I'm building my own steel stand... I'll know what part is what.

It looks like the cut is not smooth. Try a fresh 60* blade.

As long as it cuts right when you hit send. What's the care if it groans a bit... it's just revving to go.

Take your tape and drag it over your pant leg a few times.... this will knock down the tack. Test it on a piece of scrap to see if you need to repeat.

DP..

I have used rubbing alcohol in the past... place paper towel layer and pour over cover with plastic wait about 20 min and wipe. Repeat... repeat... repeat till clean. Akzo makes a stripper but it not cheap. Acetone can make it brittle so would not use it at all. Paint thinner never seems to work on this type of paint. If you get it cleaned off flip the face upside down from the old lettering that will help with the ghosting. Your right it will be a pain... when you think you have it clear clean it some more as it's not. Also what will you be repainting it with? Another way... I had a Friend that would blast with corn meal and cob mix to remove paint.With all things test I've seen allot of faces get smoked by people trying to use the wrong stuff. And the age of the face plays into it as well. Good luck... and use rubber gloves.

Post #2 Other then giving a $ amount same thing you just said. Given the fact 7five7 mentioned they want new pans... I'd just send approved artwork and have them back painted at wholesaler and mark em' up. No muss no fuss.