Kcross47601

I've always used the Roland type US Cutter blades offered on the site in both 45 and 60 degree with good results for a long time cutting 651 and etched vinyl with my MH series and Lazer Point 2. Lately, I've been cutting Siser glitter vinyl which with a 60 degree blade, wears the blades quickly and causes the tight cut edges to lift, especially on smaller lettering. I was wanting to try a different brand of blade to see if I can get better tool life or better quality cuts when cutting thicker material such as glitter. Looking for opinions and feedback from others that use Clean Cut blades and maybe other brands. Thanks guys and gals. Kris

What type of silver leaf is that? I have a car to do for a track in Kentucky and customer is looking for something like that for his numbers.

A better idea is to get away from using HTV for shirts and start screening. Doing a few shirts seems okay for HTV but a 50 shirt order takes forever with a front and back design. Just when using regular HTV, not the glitter. Was just a random statement. KC

So, the Greenstar and cleancut blades are pretty much the same? Bound to hold up better than the ones I'm using now. I know that glitter by nature, will destroy blades. Just looking for a cleaner cut and maybe a little better tool life. Kris

I read a lot on this and only this forum on how to get things done because of all the experience here and my loyality to US Cutter. I just got into shirts and HTV not long ago and it's been blowing up ever since word got out. It's a addiction that's for sure. I've been ordering my shirts from Jiffy for now but with the 50/50 and 100% cotton that they offer, is it a good idea to do a pre wash and dry on them before applying HTV? If so, What is a good method? I pre washed some white shirts the other night and ran in the dryer and looks like they shrank. These are the Gildien High Cotton shirts and a XL looks like a Med. Thanks Guys and Gals, Kris

Not pre washing would save a lot of time. I was thinking the I saw something on here somewhere at one time that the textile plants use a chemical in the manufacturing process that needed to be rinsed out so that the HTV would adheare good. I think I will skip the prewash till I have issues. I think I'm going to be too busy to do it anyway. Since word got out, I'm already busy with decals and shirts and working a full time 12hr day job. Thanks for the input!! Kris

Hey guys and gals. I decided to make the jump into shirts starting the progression into sublimation later on. Just for now, I plan to do HTV shirts. I've saw on forums before that it's not good to layer 2 colors directly on top of each other in some situations. I have seen videos on youtube where the larger image is almost outlined in one color and the second and sometimes third colors are registered and pressed seperately. Is something like this possiable in SCALP4 or will I need to graduate to Flexi or another higher grade program to be able to cut multi colors for shirts? I knew how to do it in the old SB program but it's not been acting right lately with the new cutter. Kris

I have a LP2 cutter and just getting into HTV. My Press is some where between here and Memphis. Should I order a second blade holder and set it up for HTV solely? I have plenty of blades both 45 and 60 degree. Would a 60 be better??

I think he called it a trapping method. This demos what I'm talking about but I don't have a cameo or his software.

Depending on where you are at Joe, Running around the house in shorts may be alright. Here, We are expecting snow today and I'm in my fleece PJ's. Not looking forward to a big 4x8 sign I have to install this afternoon. Kris

I've been going to my local Walmart and buying their 20oz Anchor brand mugs for $1.50 each. Been buying all they have on the shelf weather it's 2 or 20 every week. Only thing I've had to order lately online is shot glasses and use eBay for that. I just did a 24pc mug order for a local bar and the owner got his mugs from Menards on clearance.

I have a friend that wants a large sign made that is on 1\4 inch plywood painted with white latex paint. I'm worried that the 651 adhesive may not bond well. Can I use something like a iron to heat the adhesive so it will stick better?

Which poly would u recommended? ?

+1. I've shopped around and no one beats the price and service.

The antique bar back come with the store or is that something you brought in?? If you want to do something different, use the Ora 8510 etched vinyl on it. I use to own a butilding a year ago that came with a bar back almost like that one except mine had a few more accent pieces on the top. It was made by Brunswick in 1890 and was appraised at $14,000. You sure don't want to mess with it any more than you have to. Kris

It's a really smelly process. I accidently got into Vinyl when I was using a cutter for making masks for power coating. The fumes given off from the powder coat will render your house oven useless for cooking food. Get ya a old kitchen oven on Craigs list and bake away. Powder coat is nothing more than finely ground up plastic of sorts.

What did the light table set ya back?

I went from a MH721 to a 50" LP2 and like it now that I started using a Keyspan. The memory on the cutter does not like multiple cut jobs like stensels for mug etching a 40 mug order or a 45" detailed image. If going to be trying a large job, hook to a keyspan.

Can't go wrong there. Hope you are keeping them real happy.

Sounds like something to try. I went to the AMACO website and ordered a 6 tube set so I think I'm going to give it a try. May be something easy as a upsell item for a few extra bucks. Thanks guys, Kris

I may have to try to find some local and experiment.

If I was to use a agressive Aluminum Oxide in the cabinet for a deep etch, how long would it take for it to dry? I had someone ask me today at work about doing her boyfriend a 25oz beer mug and color it black. If I use it, is it washable?

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/47707-newbie-wanted-to-get-opinions-of-some-of-my-work/ This guy used the gold and silver rub n buff on a etched wine bottle. Maybe you can PM him and ask about his experience.

+1 on what Dakota said. On my MH721, I didn't notice much difference in the downforce when I cut matallics but it's also hard for that machine to cut it cleanly. I would increase the pinch toller pressure and pre pull off the amount of material you need so it's not dragging off the roll. I also use to use 60 degree blades to help cut cleanly. It's tougher material just like a thicker vinyl would be with it being 3 mil and a 45 will not last long and start to mess up quick. I did the came thing cutting reflective vinyl. Kris