vinylmotivations

Here is some, http://www.uscutter.com/Stencil-Spray_c_668.html http://www.hhsignsup...d-337p20448.htm Never used it before, but the folks at H&H are very nice to deal with!

Not for what you're looking for I dont think. The WF1100 like I use, you have to cut sheets off the roll manually.

Nice work.... I just recently started printing as well... Using Mactac Aqueous and Mactac CG8000 Laminate.

Thanks John!

How does the copam stack up against a graphtec? I have found that I would be willing to pay twice what is necessary to gurantee good tracking as my laserpoint leaves a lot to be desired in that arena... A guy down the road from me that has a 64" graphtec was telling me they have had cuts 70' long with less than a 1/16th inch of drift. Pretty impressive if you ask me...

Either need some Oragaurd 210 or Mactac CG8000 (this is what I am using) It is essentially 3mil UV resistant protective clear vinyl. It comes in rolls. Definitely smart to save your money and buy a worth-while cutter. However I may recommend looking at the Graphtec CE5000 24" model as it comes with a stand and you have the ability later to add a media catch basket etc.

I never saw that... I hate to bother him tho he is a busy soul!

Well, for me, I have a VERY less than Ideal situation. My desktop is in another room, it is technically a Media Server and in a special case that looks like a high end a/v receiver and is connected to my tv.... It has it's own ethernet (Cat 6) connection to a DLink DGS-3100-48 gigabit switch. My laptop has both a wireless N adapter that can connect to my Wifi AP or I can plug the ethernet cable in on my desk for large file transfer and streaming media when necessary. My desk where my printer is, and my plotter sits near is in another room too far from the media server to be connected via USB- unless of course I run around fishing wires again and run myself a cable to use a USB over cat5e/6 adapter to "network share" my printer over the craptacular windows setup. Other option, I could do the same with my wifi AP and use my printer on the NAS connection point, but this is an @$$ache to deal with, and also not sure I like this option either. So the only other options I am left with is to constantly plug and unplug my usb cable to the laptop from the printer stand (leaving the usb cord across the floor so it can be tripped on etc and possibly damaging one or both pieces of equipment, and also causing additional wear and tear on the usb connection on my laptop. Other option is a wireless or wired print server.... My day job I am an A/V tech and work on IP based video and tele-conferencing systems, as well as running all kinds of cabling for projectors/TVs and connecting everything you could imagine to them- We even make our own custom length cables, when needed (even VGA up to a couple hundred feet).... So the needed technical ability to set any of my options up isnt the issue, its more of a functionality decision as well as what is going to cause the least amount of wear and tear on my equipment.

Dont forget some sort of laminate too.... you need to protect your printing from scratches, UV and water still.... Also for a cutter what were you looking @? or are you going to cut out by hand?

Yeah when will these be fixed? I would like to add one, but NOOOOO can't have a -1 picture and pretty sure I CANT remove a hyperlink thats not there so what gives?

Well do we really need anything? Not really. But it would be nice, for me- since I have 2 machines I work from, and mainly use my laptop. Hate having to use one of my 2 USB ports for my printer and don't like Hubs.

I too am looking for this same thing. I would imagine ANY USB wireless print server would work fine. I have been looking on NewEgg. www.newegg.com

Any cutter will really contour cut, but depends on how large of format you want and what you would like to spend in time and software. The max size of the epson is around 12" x 44", however successfully I have only been able to print 24-26" or so. Also it takes a TON of practice. Not for your average person. It has take me over 6 months to get this far. I started out with just a cutter, practiced A LOT on regular vinyl to understand the functions of the machine as you have tracking, blade depth, pressure, speed etc all to account for. Throwing contour cutting in the mix will blow your mind if you do not know your cutter inside and out first. Also if you just buy the epson off the shelf at your local office supply store you're looking at 80+$ each time you need to get new ink carts. Go to Richard and Cobra Ink and get one with a CIS System.... well worth it, but will set you back just over 300 bones.... Lets just say by now I would have emptied my ink carts in a standard printer twice and have barely touched my ink supply with a CISS. On the other hand, your OP said you wanted to print High Quality decals... all you can find for Aqueous vinyl that is compatible with the Epson is calendared films which have a very short term outdoor life and you will still have color fading. Not saying it is not a successful way of printing etc. but you really ultimately are only looking at decals with a life of 3, maybe 4 years if you use GOOD material out of an epson printer.... Not long term use anyways. Solvent and Eco-Sol printers product last a lot longer and can go much larger format but prepare to eat it in the shorts for one of these bad dads... I would go no less than the Laserpoint like I have if you're on a budget. Here @ uscutter it is 500$ with a stand and shipping roughly, take it from the horses mouth tho- you will WISH you had a better one. The LP for me doesn't track the greatest and can be VERY tempermental. Also for cutting and printing software I am using both SignCut Pro (300$ lifetime license) and FlexiSign Pro (normally a 4500$ license)..... Also no matter what plotter you buy, get a QUALITY serial to USB keyspan adapter if your computer only has USB and no serial/db9/rs232 connection. Don't think I am trying to talk you out of anything, or that it is not possible, but you get what you pay for and no less.... Prepare to spend money to make it and not a few bucks- you will have some serious cash involved to do quality work. Setting up shop out of my home I have almost 5,000$ invested and my cutter is only 10% of that cost and I have barely scratched the surface yet. Figure a decent computer, software, tools and supplies, material for normal use, special material here and there etc.

If you would like to, send the original photo to me at my screen name, vinylmotivations.... I have an address @gmail.com I can then try autotrace again and cleanup maybe a little better, otherwise I am glad that was a little improvement!

Mind you a little bit is not ALOT.... if you could upload a higher resolution photo and make sure it is DEAD on square with no glare, a trace may be more successful.

I did an autotrace and cleaned up a little bit if this is of ANY help at all.... dekalb.eps dekalb.svg

The new Roland BN-20 that prints AND cuts was just released... starting price is around $8,000. You won't find one machine to do both, even used for less than $5,000-.... Like I said, unless it's broken of course. You would have to settle for a 24" cutter capable of contour cutting.... MINIMUM COST will be 500$ for one of these, and not super awesome fantastic quality that can track like its on train rails, and a printer, you can get any wide-format pigment inkjet printer with a CIS system preinstalled for around 350$ or sho shipped. Now you're at 850$ with NO supplies or tools (You will need special inkjet aqueous vinyl to print on this way...) ..... If you're contour cutting you need a machine that is pretty accurate and I am finding even my laserpoint 24 (uscutter machine, 500$) Cuts "ok" for this use, but I am not as impressed with it as I am a Roland Gx-24 or Graphtec machine like guys near me have.... Also you will need a ton of patience to get it all dialed in and tuned right for the process. It has taken me 6-8 months to learn what I need to be proficient at even just using my cutter, let alone the printer I just bought and making my cutter and it cooperate and play nice together. Trust me- you won't be able to do both WELL for under 1500$.... I would say buy a decent cutter, and some plain colored vinyl and start there.... pay for that machine with some vinyl and then buy a printer. Make sure you want this stuff and like the work or it will be a waste of money and time. Wanna make it all easy? Tack another zero onto your budget.

There are a couple things you will need to evaluate. What size of decals would you like to do>? Also- for 1500$ you won't find a device that will do both, unless of course its broken. You will need a printer to do any kind of printing, there are less expensive ways and better ways (not the same) of doing that as well as extra materials you will need for this in addition to ink. In a cutter- How wide would you like? This limits your size. Materials needed? Only you know what you like to do with it... Less expensive cutters track less straight limiting the length you can cut too, not just width. And here, color is dependent on the vinyl you buy. Shirts? You'll need a press for these too- another piece of equipment. Not likely you can even get all 3 for 1500$... Unless you want no startup material and super cheapie equipment. Just my 2 cents. Pick one of the above as a start and get acclimated first- get your feet wet, then add and expand.

This is my second attempt at printing with my Epson WF1100, Laminating (by hand mind you) and then contour cutting with my LP24!!! These I am most definitely satisfied with! For those of you that would like to see the WF1100 in action I have videos on YouTube!!!!

LOL I actually have no idea where it came from. The team provided the artwork and that was it. LOL Hopefully no one will fuss about it or that it is not copywritten Thanks tho.... this set turned out a TON better than the last ones for the teams helmets. Just goes to show that the Laserpoint is a very capable machine when properly set up and adjusted with offset. I did notice the sheet of vinyl tracked slightly off kilter but it didnt seem to matter once I told SignCut where the corners were it must have made a slight compensation? Who knows. IDC it works. A lot of trial and error with the pen tool and paper to get it working right however....

SHOOT! ok... I will see what I can find.

Try stretching the t-shirt over cardboard... then use either packing tape to keep it there or just a simple desk stapler opened up like you would use for a bulletin board etc. Then shoot a photo of it, OR scan it. I think that would work.... if you can't find it.

Speed is definitely the culprit here. i have almost always removed vinyl off my own vehicle at the car wash with a pressure washer. same concept. Maybe want to look into some sort of heavily laminated wrap that is continuous and then edge seal?

How are you prepping the surface? Are you applying wet or dry? I would try cleaning the surface with some sort of alcohol based cleaner or if it wont damage the finish something like acetone. IDK what the finish is like on marine craft. Myself, I use RapidTac 2 to prep any surface (for wet or dry app) and then wipe down with a microfiber and/or tac rag. I would make sure you use a ton of pressure while applying although the heat should get the adhesive nice an baked on. Also is the vinyl fresh or has it been sitting around for a while? Vinyl for cutting does have a shelf life (of abot 2-3 years on the roll). Have all these been off the same roll? Maybe a bad batch of vinyl- not likely but possible.

What software are you using? I have done several large ones, both 30 and 45" wide on my 24 LP. I am using SignCut Pro