Snapper

Yeah Skeeter... I've had other stock sent from Orafol in past and I always got a your items been shipped email.... and it would say that next to order number as well. This time not so.

Okay I needed some 8500 for a project. Checked said it was in stock... paid before 2:30pm went about my day. I expected an ORDER SHIPPED notice but none came that day or the next. Went and checked My Account and see it's " Awaiting Inventory". Course I try and contact CS get bumped off and a email later acknowledging my effort to contact CS and some one would get with me in 24 hours. Well that was about as correct as the items in stock. Should of just order from Fellers would of cost ne a bit more but I would of had it and would of been done working on it... instead I wanted to use the credit setting from the last order that was short 5ft on 10 yard roll that I needed 28ft of material for that job... that they claimed was sent right from Oraflo. You Guys need to fix the inventory list and be honest about what is and is not available.

Gator Foam... and come in a tan finish.

Under or over the word place two small squares or registration marks... make black... copy marks... paste over select and make red. Hi-light letter that needs to be red and change color. Send to cutter choose plot black. Should cut word and marks less red letter. Change to red vinyl click red color... plot. Weed place clear packing tape over marks then app tape... take a knife and cut app tape over marks. Apply black word ... remove liner behind marks... line up red and black marks squeegee down red letter. Remove marks... should be dead nutz on.

Hey these days you never know... here today gone by tomorrow. A new addition since trying to call them at 8...8:30... 9:00...9:30... 10 ect.... about some bad vinyl 810s mask. Funny how they can place that up and correct to the world but phones are out. Sent emails and so forth.

So what is the issue with them... I've tried to call no one picks up on 888 # and just dead air on 425 # toll line. Anyone else have this issue today?

Would that be vinyl laminated White Wood or Omega? Did you prime and use sealant between channel and edge? Never had Luster de-laminate nor MDO. I knock sharp edge down... always fill any edge voids with caulking, prime, paint. Have had sign panels up for 20+ yrs a little faded but still serviceable.

Yep 1/2" LUSTER BOARD 4x8 will run about 2 bills. Or get 16'X16" .024 aluminum panel and1/2" MDO... some outdoor contact cement and laminate your own for about 60 total.

Hum small panel... lots of tiny bubbles... could be dust as well. Also check the edge of your squeegee... make sure it's flat and sharpish. I've used Rapid-Tac and Splash. One thing I came to realize is it only take a very light misting of Splash on the surface to get the same job done.

Park it in the Sun use plastic razor blades to lift the edge and pull. If you have nothing better Rubbing Alcohol will take the adhesive residue off.

cured is the operative word... skarekrow, From the photo you can still smell the fresh varnish. Try rubbing oil an something and placing graphics... they won't stick that's about what I see in the photo. I've had frames I've stained rub up color for weeks. There's a big difference between re coat time, handle time and cured. Applying graphics over fresh X is asking for mishap... as it off gases it can cause failures such as lifting or bubbles. Shellac is not a oil base.. the dried flake are dissolved in alcohol. It will seal and dry in short order allowing for his graphic to be placed in shorter time. Christmas is 8 days away... time is running out.

The varnish is an oil...oil and adhesives don't work together. Could coat over it with clear bulls eye shellac. Shellac will stick to and seal most any coating and any coating will stick to it. Maybe give it a old world french polish then apply your graphics.

It is referred to as knob and tube. I have seen it coupled with Federal Pacific panels. Scary stuff when a resistant load is applied and the wires glow orange and the sag way before the breaker snaps off. Nothing due to the K&T but the FP. But yep most folks don't know not to touch and in many old structures can still be live. As far as the grounding just make sure the frame is grounded good. Remove the paint from under the eyelet is a good idea as and a bonding jumper from your stand to your cutter frame. You can test your cutter cords ground with a ohm meter to see if you have good continuity between the frame and grounded plug pin.

Did you inspect the cutting strip? Over time they get valleys and gutters that effects the blades pressure and it drops off at those points. Bet it was time to replace. Mute point now... enjoy the new plotter.