tory 0 Posted August 7, 2009 I was told at a show the sheets don't last very long but good for things like family reunions where you might just wear the shirt a few times. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Renegade 2 Posted August 7, 2009 I prefer 11x17 sheets, but can't think of anything wrong with the 8.5x11. Not sure what type of ink your printer uses, but pigment ink is preferred as it won't fade or bleed. I've got a couple of test shirts that have been washed about 50+ times that look fine. JPSS lasts just fine if you use the proper ink and technique to make them. I usually get 100 11x17 sheets for about $1 each. 8.5x11 sheets are usually $31.50 for a 50 pack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tory 0 Posted August 7, 2009 Thanks Renegrade, nothing better than having the results in your hand. Maybe they didn't know or wanted me to buy their stuff??? Made since to me since it was a printer vs applied vinyl. I have heard the pigment ink is better. I have a HP all in one printer is that the same thing as long as I use the pigment ink? Might have to give this try after all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edge 67 Posted August 7, 2009 If you're new to pigmented ink you may want to delve more into it's compatibility with a HP all in one home printer. The Epson 800 and 1200 series printer WERE the most common pigmented printers. Kodak's printer line is supposed to be pigmented. Maybe a HP will easily transition to pigmented refill and I've just missed that....there is however a difference in viscosity between dye based and true non water bleeding pigmented. If you try dye based on the JPSS, once you set the project with heat, spill water on it and wipe with a paper towel, I'd be curious to know if you experience bleeding. I tried a small batch of JPSS about a year ago, I didn't think it cut as cleanly for me as IronAll. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Renegade 2 Posted August 8, 2009 There are many printers that use pigmented inks from the factory, but I converted an Epson 1400 from Claria inks (that some self proclaimed experts claim doesn't bleed, but did for my customers) to refill carts with pigment inks. I've not experimented with inks in any of my HP printers yet, but I'm sure some of the guys that sell the ink and carts will be able to help you. Inkjetfly is who I've been working with for ink and carts, but there are lots of other companies to choose from. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrdavid 0 Posted August 19, 2009 I have been using JPSS for two years now and yes I have made tons of shirts and made good money with it. I to have Epson 1400 with cis with pigment ink and never had A problems with it. And I have two shirts that are two years old and been washed over 100 times still look good and yes I wash them in bleech and hot water and dry them on high heat can any other transfer paper do this ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Muttley 0 Posted August 19, 2009 A big to JPSS! I have an Epson with he Claria inks, and it works great. I have even done JPSS on dark shirts, it gave it an old / weathered / antiqued look. Muttley Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TransferThis 0 Posted August 20, 2009 I use JPSS and love the paper! I too, have several shirts that I wash in hot water, with bleach and dry on high heat and they still look good! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
signwerx 0 Posted August 24, 2009 Are Claria inks Pigment or Dye I'm trying to make a purchase. eed ASAP Phillip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted August 24, 2009 I believe the claria inks like used in the epson 1400 are dye, but have heard of people using them with good results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hamlettsigns 0 Posted August 24, 2009 dye but on t-shirtforums.com there is a lot of comments about using the claria inks with good results I have a 1400 I changes to pigment inks that I use on jpss Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tiger3000 0 Posted August 26, 2009 We have been useing JPSS for a year now and have washed them many, many times and not always in cold water. They still look great :) for JPSS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Renegade 2 Posted September 19, 2009 Works ok, but the blacks are what look a little weird to me but not like its unusable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aries58 0 Posted September 25, 2009 I prefer 11x17 sheets, but can't think of anything wrong with the 8.5x11. Not sure what type of ink your printer uses, but pigment ink is preferred as it won't fade or bleed. I've got a couple of test shirts that have been washed about 50+ times that look fine. JPSS lasts just fine if you use the proper ink and technique to make them. I usually get 100 11x17 sheets for about $1 each. 8.5x11 sheets are usually $31.50 for a 50 pack. I would love to sample a couple sheets for light if you have any extra.I will pay with paypal..Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkappy 0 Posted November 9, 2009 I have an HP Office Jet 6500. Can I use this for Heat Transfers? I too have the JetPro SS. I have been trying, but am having a hard time transferring. It doesn't want to come off the paper all the way to the shirt. What am I doing wrong? I have my heat press all the way up to 410 now. And it is now turning the shirt yellow. and my pressure is set to really hard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aanimalman 0 Posted March 14, 2010 JPSS instructions state 350 to 375 for 20 to 30 sec. at firm pressure. I prefer to use about 365 F and 30 sec frim pressure. When I have used higher heat settings I end up with some of the transfer staying on the backing sheet when peeling. I believe that this is caused by the heat setting. If peeled too hot, the transfer material is still liquefied and is sticking to the shirt and the backing you are kind of breaking it in two and taking half of it off the shirt. What you are trying to achieve is the encapsulation of the design in the soft stretch material as it melts. You want the ink to be stuck inside the soft stretch material and the material stuck to the fibers of the shirt. If pressed too long or too hot, the soft stretch will migrate past the design and into the fiber of the shirt. The ink will then be in the thin layer of soft stretch that stays attached to the transfer backing. Try cooler settings and if you still get a lot of ink on the transfer sheet when peeled, reduce your press time by a few seconds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites