Wildgoose

Looks like it's from the Handel Gothic family.

Wow Skeeter, that was a cool bit of detective work you did. Maybe we should call you Nancy Drew! Way to go the extra mile!

Welcome from Idaho. I know a guy from Australia, his name is Hank King. Maybe you know him?

You are probably going to want to check the city ordinances too. They have rules for new signs and will probably have to approve them and you may have to have a special license to do that part of the work. In your position I would look for a "Handy Man" jack of all trades type and get them to put the sign cabinets up be it on a pole or on a building, then you can just do the substrate and vinyl.

If it's a small decal I just put the whole thing on a piece of parchment paper and you can see right through it. I leave one edge with enough sticky exposed to hold it down while I pull the paper from between the two or if I'm worried I will just tape a hinge on there once it's in position.

I would send her a new one even though she probably screwed it up trying to put it on. The Kudo's you can get from good customer service can be worth much more in the long run than a teeny little thing like that. If you are like me you probably have scraps that are larger than that all over the place.

Can't you just add some roses from another file?

You definitely don't want to get negative feedback if you can help it on ebay, people actually read those before they buy. I think the key is verify what the actual problem is and decide if it's a customer applied issue or a shipping issue and then you can figure out the best way to deal with it. If you plan to do a long term business on ebay then you should get prepared to have some issues. Sometimes they are legit sometimes they are just trying to get something for nothing. I would be sure and have a well thought out return policy that is VERY visible on the auction/webpage.

Around here and online material jumps from 24" to 30" to 48" so I agree with Dakota, 36" is a waste unless you have some special needs. I like having the ability to cut 30 material just in case. Once in a while I end up with some or I have a sign that is JUST over the 23" working window of the regular vinyl and I might pick up a few yards.

Have you checked into the price of a commercial embroidery machine? A word of caution, be sure and have someone ready to pick you up off the floor when you do because you may need some assistance. It starts to make sense why those guys want so much for their work once you see what they have to pay for a good machine.

I wonder if your browser is giving you trouble? Maybe? Oh I remember....you need to send $100 to everyone on the forum who has more posts than you, that's what it is. Ha ha!

I just have a swing away from USCutter and it has done great but I will some day upgrade. I bought a perfect press pad from Stahls and use it lots for shirt sleeves and crest prints when there are buttons or seams nearby. I think mine is a 5"x6" pad. They have a whole assortment that you can buy in a group or one at a time. I just bought the one once I saw the price. I haven't tried a mouse pad but it would probably work too although it will be a little thinner than the press pad is. I also have a couple press pillows that are SUPER handy when you need one. My main one is about 12" x 12" or some such and I use it when I have a previously applied graphic on the back side that I don't want to get hot or if there are shirt seams that are up on the press as smaller shirts tend to be. If you have a seam near your image it can cause adhesion problems or wrinkles. The other press pillow I have is 5" x 16" (i think ) and is a must have for pant legs and long sleeves where you can pretty much guarantee a seam messing you up.

So so, to tell the truth a lot of the domain email accounts have difficulty accepting large graphic files. Gmail and hotmail deal with them great.

I like that you are asking HOW to do it rather than to have someone do it for you! Atta Boy! (one of these nice folks may well do it just to be friendly but you must be like most of us who would rather know how to do it yourself)

You know everyone makes mistakes now and then. It's one thing to miss something when knocking out a couple T-shirts for your neighbor and probably a little too much to expect doing hours of research on something one off like that. But a WHOLE different animal when you get into a logo creation.

Laser engraving would bust that right out. Don't know the cost and you'd need a vector file just like a cutter would.

I'd tackle it if I had a little more time. If you don't get it done in the next few days I may have a while free this weekend, I'll keep an eye on the thread.

How often do you cut larger than 24" vinyl? If you are willing to spend 1K then you can probably find a used or refurbished Graphtec 24" unit pretty close to that and be setting great. I had a P-Cut 48" cutter for a couple years and only cut 30" vinyl about 3 times a year and then only because that was the only material the local shop had in stock in the color I wanted. I never cut 48" once. I upgraded to aSumma D75r which is only a 30" machine and I just tile anything larger. With the higher quality cutter, tiling is no big deal because the cuts are so much more accurate. The Summa was higher dollars than the Graphtec but I have heard nothing but good comments on the Graphtecs. The biggest thing you are getting away from is the stepper motors that the lower end machines have.

Have you tried the stretch version yet? It's a flat color finish and is super soft to the hand. Cost a little more. I brought some in for a set of stretchy shirts and liked it so much I now stock several colors.

I use paper for myself. I use a mix of med tack and high depending on the application. If it's something that has small letters that I think are going to give me trouble during application then I definitely use the med tack. It comes off easier with less lift on the small pieces. Sometimes you get a letter or dot that doesn't want to come off the liner being the only issue but I usually just leave it on the liner and go back for it with a small square of the same app paper and stick it where it belongs. I sell occasional stuff to local craft ladies and they like the clear and I use medium tack for that as well. Best luck for this has been the R-Tape Clear choice AT60 I have found that the clear has way more tendency to tunnel and is much more susceptible to temperature changes and stretches too much for multi layer. Not to mention you are stuck without the option of a wet install or a wet removal. Stay away from the Greenstar layflat clear. It sucks IMO. The paper stuff from Greenstar is fine but I only use it up to about 12" width. The edges are a little weird and it can go on bad if you aren't careful. I prefer the R-Tape Apli-tape or the conform versions. They cost a little more but are worth it on the big wide stuff.

Have you done any of that Siser PU material dakota? That looks like sweet stuff.

Why don't you contact the vendor and request the product info? Just tell him you really like the product and want to talk with the local public safety admin and need to know all the details of what the product is.

You might want to pick up a decent infrared temp gun. Don't be too cheap because I have heard the Harbor freight thermometers are off about as bad as a lot of heat presses are. My press is a different brand but it was off a long way from what the temp gauge said. If you get the temp about right or a little higher than recommended (Siser is mostly 305*, I do mine about 10* hotter so it never dips below the recommended) You can make a lot of extra cash with that thing believe me! You already have a cutter and the process is basically the same for custom vinyl shirts.

Oh how I wish I had a solvent printer to be able to use that stuff. Siser PU film looks like a sweet product! Just buy a 10K printer. LOL

I doubt you would be able to tell if it was laminated then cut. It would just be a little thicker.