Wildgoose

Thanks guys, Never have enough sports ideas

You can layer it up just fine. If you have a lot of coverage it can start to feel "heavy" or thick but easyweed is thinner than a lot other brands so even layered it works. Post a pic of the design and we can give you a more informed opinion.

I'm not a techie but I'm pretty sure you have to aim it at the right port which will have changed. GL

Nice work and welcome to the forum.

I have a friend here in Idaho that collects arcade and pinball machines. Has quite a collection at his place. Good old atari, fond memories.

I bet every single one of us has done that at least once. I have done it many times. You should be able to save all kinds of scraps on the HTV. I save anything that is big enough to cut and you will be surprised how many little misc names and numbers you can find a use for it. It's a good idea to pick up a quality infrared temperature gauge or I've heard of someone closing the pres with a meat cooking thermometer in there to double check your heat settings. The digital presses are notorious for being off. Mine is somewhere between C and F in la la land. I just use the gun to check and now I know where it needs to be.

Hello from Idaho.

Cool to see a rep on the forum! If you aren't already aware, most of us are HUGE fans of the SIser product line.

I like the "And the Owner" part! Is that a shotgun? Sweet. You'd fit right in here in here in Idaho.

I put some old fashioned gold on the back of one of my wifes cookie sheets where we etched our name and it has held up to several baking/washing cycles without any apparent problem.

Ok you are running Inkscape. It sounded like you were using adobe illustrator. My bad. In inkscape you should be able to click the color at the bottom of the screen and the color pallet will pop up for you if you haven't already figured that out.

I used some gold on a sweatshirt for one of my kids (not mirror) and it looked good the first day, then after being worn for a while the gold has so may wrinkles in it it looks bad.

What version are you running? you should be able to select the object then either in the upper LH corner or depending the version, in the color pallet menu and also in the toolbar depending on your preferences. So there should be one to three places to change the color of the stroke and fill separately.

I would be interested in a follow up after a few washings as to what the sheen looks like on that stuff after it gets wrinkled. Please let us know how it does if you can, I have never used that product.

I seem to remember from my SCALP days that you can do as Go-C Wraps said and once broken apart you can also select and change the color of the objects so that the cut-by-color buttons work. I had trouble with some imports coming through all the same color even though I had designed them in different colors. In the end I started making a separate file for each color layer. I no longer use SCALP.

You will probably want to download inkscape. Its an open source program that does a pretty good job for free and then ya you just can just cut from SCALP. You might be able to do some of what you are talking with SCALP but it is lacking a few major options. There are videos of how to use inkscape and even a link in the help menu to show the basics. Post a pic of your design and it will be easier for us to visualize what your up to.

Nice work dude! What program you use to design with? Welcome to the forum!

If your not still a newbie then you're sliding downhill. I try to learn something new everyday and if I can pass a little info on to others then I do. There are a lot that give it a go and give up. I just did some large wall quotes for a hair salon that usually buys them pre-cut from the local hobby shop but they actually referred her to me when they figured out how big they were. (they really weren't that big, largest was about 36"x 90") I convinced her it would be smart to let me install which was probably a bad idea because the texture on her walls was horrible, but mow she is talking about more vinyl on the door and so on.

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/43549-printing-or-cut-help-needed/ This recent thread has a two color image that a couple of us did a tracing on to give you a good example of the kinds of things you will probably deal with with customers and some of the different ways to go about doing things. I have rebuilt logos from worn out business cards and even hand drawn on a napkin kind of stuff. For the lock there should be a little icon somewhere in the layers that will let you select a certain item and toggle between lock and unlock. I'm not familiar with corel to know where it's at.

Hopefully your machines will come on time. I had a vinyl order that I put in last week that took 6 days rather than the normal 2 because of all the nasty weather out there. If they don't you can always practice tracing designs. A good skill to have is the ability to hand trace an image rather than relying on auto trace. You get much cleaner results by hand but it takes a little practice to get fast at it. Homework assignment for today. Find a simple one or two color design. Import it into the program you use. Reduce the opacity of that object to about 50% and lock it so you won't accidentally select it then use your drawing tool which sometimes has goes by different names to draw bezier curves and lines around the object. I draw with no fill or line weight and then turn the color on after but some draw with some line weight. Don't fret if you make a mistake on the initial draw because you can and should go back around it with the individual selection or node edit tool and manipulate the nodes to get the lines exactly where you want them. It takes practice to figure out where the best placement is for the nodes. I would suggest going to SignTorch's site and download one of his free designs and open it up and look at where he places his nodes. That guy is about as good as they get. Also take a look at how he rarely has sharp corners. I looked at his stuff early on and have tried to emulate his style and it makes for images that cut nice with less pick-up in the corners. Sometimes you need a point but usually you can go back in and add two points just off the very tip and then remove the tip point and still get the same look without an absolute dagger point. When you are all done toss the original and you should have a very accurate copy. (Just be careful of copyright laws.)

Uh oh, Slice is getting on his star wars soap box, what did you get started Jerry...what did you do!!!!!

My advice is be patient and try not to get frustrated at the start. Once you get your machine up and running and start playing around you will learn fast. Some times hands on are the quickest teacher. My big tip for newbies is use the pen attachment and get yourself some cheap butcher paper to practice the first few designs to see if you have that part down right before you worry about getting the knife depth and pressure correct. One thing at a time. Watch the pen and see if it's doing a double cut. A lot of newbs get a second object in all the white/open holes within their designs. Cut by color will fix that by turning off all but the color you are wanting and if you find you have those extra images then a quick search and you can figure out the best way to remove them. I see you are using Corel and I don't hear as much about them from those folks as with Illustrator so it may not be an issue. It's really not that hard but seems like a lot at first. Good luck man!

Lighten up Francis. That was a bit harsh. OW I print on wally world shirts all the time that people bring in. I couldn't care less if they want to get their own. I prefer that they don't wash them but I have even done used shirts once. I just let them know that if they will give me a little heads up I can usually save them a buck by bringing them in for them. I have never used the glow product and I haven't brought any in just because as you say its a bit on the expensive side. I wonder how much they move that stuff and maybe it's an old roll. I have noticed my older rolls getting harder to weed but never had any ill effects with adhesion (that I know of).

So I was feeling the itch and vectored your pic. There is probably a lot of distortion from the picture so it may need tweaked. I left all the colors on one layer but you should be able to cut by color and lay out the black then the red on top. I wasn't sure you were following what I was talking about. I figured you could use the help being new so have fun. Saved in AI version 8 which I think works with SCALP, can't remember. Job1.ai

In my opinion I would cut the black out and include the shadow behind the red and then put the red on top of the black. If you knock the C and E out of the red it will look like the black is on top and you can still get the shadows behind the red. I would use the Bright red Siser too, it's much more vibrant especially when next to or on black.