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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/08/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    cutting through the backing and not using transfer tape have nothing to do with each other. To correctly apply vinyl you need to use transfer tape. If you don't the vinyl will easily stretch and warp when pulling from the backing paper and applying to the object.
  2. 3 points
    The fact that you are almost going thru the wax paper backing at higher force, is too much blade exposed. It is not possible if the blade depth is set correctly Oracal 651 should never have to use 2 passes. It is only 2.5 mil thick. With that Clean Cut blade you may also have broken the tip off, very easy to do. It takes much less force than regular blades. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  3. 2 points
    I would bet most people here muddled through the discovery phase much like you are doing now. You did good...you got it hooked up, got it communicating with your computer, got it cutting the test pattern. Now you have learned to watch the size of your graphics....yes, sometimes it imports way too big and sometimes too small. Except for practice and patience.....you're just about there! Sounds like you are wanting to make shirts with HTV.......most important thing to remember: MIRROR your text/graphic. To this day I get so involved with the layout etc............... I forget to mirror! Now, before I push that cut button, I check one last time! Good Luck. Here's a suggestion for your first shirt! I made one for myself. Sue2
  4. 2 points
    Things you can try and/or inspect: Try changing the blade out again, maybe you have some kind of defect with the blade. Try using a 60* blade. If you cutting really small text,a 60* will probably do better for you. Try slowing down the speed of your cuts. Check the cutting strip, perhaps it needs replacement. Mine require replacement every one in a while. Check the blade carriage. Make sure that nothing on the carriage is cracked, and is able to hold on to the blade holder securely. I have found hairline cracks in the carriage that would allow movements and cause issues in the cuts. You'll just have to go back to basics and start ruling things out one at a time.
  5. 2 points
    So here's what I found: My blade appears to be WAY too far out when comparing to what @MZ SKEETER suggested. I backed the blade way back and was surprised that, yes, it still cuts even when only that tiny bit is exposed. I tried by hand and was able to cut out a square that could be weeded. I moved to the cutter and slowly worked my way from 120g up up up until I was able to cut the cutter's test pattern triangle. I think started cutting small text and slowly crept up until I was able to cut small text repeatable and all pieces stayed on the backer. This turns out to be 350g which is way more pressure than I've ever used. I then started cutting text smaller and smaller. I cut text from 0.4" to 0.25" with only the 0.25" having any problems. On that cut, I ended up losing a '1' character. I think I will try these settings for today's orders and see how it pans out. Again, thanks to all for the help. You've increased my speed by 100%!
  6. 1 point
    Charge per hour for your design work and 5hey tend to be more decisive quicker
  7. 1 point
    You are going to have to determine which program has the issue. Upload a simple AI file with something like a square or rectangle and I'll open it and see what it transfers over. I have been moving and doing a remodel/addition so I'm in and out of the forum lately but I'll try to pay attention. lol There is a quick key on the tools menu that lets you drag the art board to any size you like. AI DOES have a max size of 227 inches (I think) Also some info. What file type are you exporting as? Some programs need specific file types or versions. I am unfamiliar with Cutstudio so can't help with that program but I use AI religiously. I use SignCut Pro 1 and it likes to have older Version 8 Adobe files. It will accept other types but they often come through out of scale like you are talking about. SVG are smaller files and I tried to convert over and start using them but they were inconsistent in size so I quit using them.
  8. 1 point
    wonky "scratching record" sounds Welcome to our world. Be thankful you own a (relatively) silent Graphtec, not the SC2. That thing'll chase me outta the room, louder than these cicadas.
  9. 1 point
    I can't speak for these two pieces of software, but I know in Inkscape there is a DPI setting the affects SVG files and if the DPI setting between to programs don't match the files may not come out the same size even though they are vectors.
  10. 1 point
    wowzer., haumana, guess what? Yep, I found out an amazing thing tonite. USCutter is allowing access to the SignBlazer download once more. It's still hidden, but will prompt for download. As always, disable anti-virus defenders, this V7.0.0 is 'cracked' to run forever, as abandonware, will install safely and run properly --- when using this MH unit, select in cutter setup RedSail model.
  11. 1 point
    You can put it on a cutting mat and cut through. If you don't have something to act as a carrier sheet then it will all come apart in the middle of the cut and have a big mess. The CE6000 MIGHT have the KISS CUT or PERF CUT option that bounces up and down creating a perforated edge but I don't run Graphtec so I am not sure. My Summa will do that for printed work. It is hard on cutting strips but may be worth the trouble for mass sales of peel and stick type work.
  12. 1 point
    One trick I was told from my SummaCut tech support is to get down at eye level when the cutter is running and be sure you can see a very slight air gap between the blade holder and the actual vinyl. If the blade holder is dragging on the vinyl when cutting you would need a slight adjustment but if it's got some gap and you are cutting through then you are set correctly. I still question the blade tip. That is a LOT of pressure. Could be that your machine doesn't read accurate gr of pressure but if the very tip has broken or been rounded off it will do similar. I have found that a few times when cutting HTV which is a bit more demanding on blades. If the tip was not pristine I start having issues with needing more pressure and I usually save those blades for use when I need to cut something nasty like glitter. Still useable but not pristine.
  13. 1 point
    Put it like this, you shouldn't even barely see the tip out of the blade holder. Or feel the tip out of the blade holder. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. Your vinyl is only 2.5 mil which is hardly anything. Run the blade holder over the vinyl manually in your hand. If it goes into the wax paper backing , you have too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. If the blade depth is correct, it is not possible to cut into the wax paper backing. You just want a slight mark on the wax paper backing, that way you know you are all the way thru the adhesive. There is nothing to gauge, You shouldn't even barely see the tip out of the blade holder. When the tip is in so far in the blade holder that you think it wouldn't even cut, it is probably right. You use the force of the machine to cut.
  14. 1 point
    Yes, use a magnifying glass, but possible without it. You are supposed to back your force back 1/2 before you use it. They are extra sharp. The tip will snap right off.
  15. 1 point
    I wondered about the tip of your blade as well. Each cutter runs at different downforce numbers but your at 120g which with a Clean Cut blade should be well into your cutting strip. I am unfamiliar with the Seiki 720H, is it a servo or stepper motor? If you have had it for 15 years it may be reaching the end of it's life cycle. These things do wear out eventually.
  16. 1 point
    This is pretty close
  17. 1 point
    Hello everyone. I'm evidently new here, but I thought I had already had an account here when I got my Titan Cutter last year, apparently not. Oh well, I've been doing HTV and permanent vinyl designs for awhile now, and now have just purchased a SC 631. Looking forward to gaining a lot more knowledge from these forums.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Good to know about having slack. I was letting the machine pull it. But, even in the image above (which was only 6 inches deep), it still got off. I do run the vinyl back and forth before cutting to make sure it's not drifting. If it does drift, it's usually because I don't have it fed in square, so I'll reset and then test run until it feeds straight. I have the blade dialed in. It's doesn't cut deep enough to cut the back, but it cuts deep enough to cut the vinyl. Any lighter and it will not cut the vinyl. Budget - I'm still small time and trying to grow, that's why $x,xxx is possibly doable, but $xx,xxx+ is out of my range just yet. I'm new to cutters, so I'm honestly not even sure what an "entry level (good)" cutter would start at. Yeah, this machine is entry level.... but the good is still questionable - although it could be operator error.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Jenn, I agree with Primal about experimenting but there are some "industry specs" : Left Chest = 4" Full Front / Full Back = 12" Short Sleeve = 4" Long Sleeve = 12" Leg = 14" Sometimes 12" wide is too big for the front...I have actually had customers request 10" wide. Hope that helps! Chrissy Say It!