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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    Ok, I got to say it. Windows 3?????????????? Not even Win 3.1. I mean I could almost stand by a diehard on Win XP. Almost. But with Win 3 your shooting yourself in the foot. Bite the bullet. Go 64 bit. The nineties called and ask for their OS back. Your Win3 machine saw OS/2 on a milk cartoon and thought they saw him in the office cubicle at the end of the hall. I understand you got the hang of the software, are happy were you are. But you won't find a single new thing for that computer. Your going to have problems getting any support. The technical support you may encounter probably weren't even alive when Win 3 came out. Networking the machine to any other modern computer is going to be hair pulling. No USB means floppy disks. Sooner or later the Win 3 machine is going to die. Why it hasn't is a miracle, like seeing Jesus on a piece of toast or something. Exchanging or receiving artwork from clients is going to be like climbing mount Everest, backwards, blind folded, and on a tequila bender. If you want to add a scanner, a modem, or anything, your going to have to move jumper settings around on the mother board, maybe the sound card and hope there isn't an IRQ conflict with your serial port. Change means you can lose control. It means you face uncertainty, surprise, difficulty, humiliation, extra work. But it has rewards too. Every day it's a brand new world.
  3. 2 points
    There are a lot of folks out there who use good ol' 651 sign vinyl on ceramic, plastic, glass and "stainless" tumblers. As long as the glass is nice and clean and you let the item sit for a few days before throwing it in the dishwasher it holds up really well. And you don't need a heat press. It won't hold up as long as sublimation and it can be snagged or scratched off, but it does hold up. Back in March I personalized some Dollar Store plastic tumblers for a family get together and figured if they held up through the weekend they had done their job. My Dad has been drinking coffee out of his everyday since and it still looks like new. So sign vinyl is great for craft projects or personal items, however I wouldn't offer them to business customers since you can feel the image and they won't last as long as sublimation.
  4. 2 points
    HTV is for fabric. That said, someone always try the non standard. These guys did. https://shopcraftables.com/blog/can-i-iron-htv-on-that/. Though ceramic isn't on their list, I imagine HTV will stick like their results for glass. I wouldn't count on HTV on a mug to last one dishwasher cycle, any brand or type of HTV.. HTV is the wrong product for anything but fabric, (maybe leather like stuff also.) Sublimation is what most go for for mugs, with a mug press. You need the right kind of mug too for sublimation. Regular sign vinyl would have a higher chance of making it through a dishwasher. But I wouldn't count on it lasting forever. If the mug were hand washed, odds improve.
  5. 2 points
    I 2nd on buying a better cutter than the MH series vinyl cutters, it is a bottom of the barrel cutter with many known problems, static, tracking, communication, memory, just to name a few.
  6. 2 points
    You'll have to hook it up with the RS232 serial port, since your older computer is not gonna support USB. Remember one thing --- the plotters we use today were actually developed by Hewlett-Packard in the 1950s and the basic operation remains the same (as does the underlying interface language -- HPGL -- with slight driver/code variations by manufacturer). Also, if you can afford to do so, the SC2 would be a better choice.
  7. 2 points
    I know what you are trying to do. I have VM Pro on one of my workstations but am unschooled with it. I tried the "multi-line" tool and it produced a line inside but it wasn't consistent width because most S letters are not consistent width so the outline/inline follows suit. You may be able to do that and adjust the inside lines to get some consistency but it will be some node editing to get you there. I would suggest trying to find a very skinny S and do an outline to create the road rather than trying to create the yellow line inside. There are also "Inline" fonts that will have a line in the middle and you can probably deconstruct them and get the inner part separate from the rest. It won't work to slice an S and try to use one half of it because once again S's are not symmetrical nor even width. I am attaching a file with a couple S's for you. You should be able to import them into an open working file. I did these in AI where I know what I'm doing. The one that I like the best I also did a dashed line. I just free hand drew the yellow into the middle of the black on those two. The other was an inline offset that I tried to true the width up on. S Road.ai
  8. 1 point
    Did these for a customer who sponsors a little league team. He will paint them. mark-s
  9. 1 point
    I may have to use a simplified version of my logo for the hats then! I appreciate your help. I'm going to practice a little bit more. I have some extra hats just in case.
  10. 1 point
    Hey I've been really busy lately, so I just got around to trying out the brick. It is a tough cut. I'm going to try a new blade maybe. It seems to cut deep enough most places, but corners it seems to not be cut through enough.
  11. 1 point
    We all did, very valuable info. Also thanks to you guys (and gals). Great threads here lately, good details on things. Fun to watch things become resolved so often !!!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Were you trying to upgrade the firmware? I see this happens if you try to upgrade the firmware and it does not go thru as an upgrade. As in not finished.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    You could look at the service manual and probably order the part. Guessing FC8600 part would be close to the same part.
  16. 1 point
    If the object is curves and is not grouped you can work in Node Edit mode (click 1 below) and use Break Curve (at two points, see 3 below) to create a segment (Tip: set the curve Object to wireframe fill, by selecting it and clicking 2 below). Next click the Curve (menu) > Break Apart (4) and then delete the segment.
  17. 1 point
    Yup. dc is spot on. HTV has a very thin film of adhesive that is specifically designed to adhere to certain types of cloth. There are variations even within the HTV options in order to change the cloth like those made to handle nylon. Mug presses are built to sublimate up at the 400deg range. It's a fascinating process but nothing like what you are attempting.
  18. 1 point
    Kido I deleted your other duplicate post. I don't know that you meant to double post or not but we try to keep it to one thread so future searchers have a better chance of learning from your journey.
  19. 1 point
    Or a dry application and a wet removal. spray your app tape after you get it all in place and it will often help release the tape. (paper only)
  20. 1 point
    If you're able to, maybe do a paper tape with a wet application.
  21. 1 point
    I usually make my own registration marks. I use a diamond or sometimes a + mark and place them where I want them. Once I have them in place I group them and copy and then paste them in place again so there are a stack. One set for each color, then change the colors so each color layer has a set to go with it and when you cut out your designs they will each show up and all be in the same place. When you view the project you are only going to see the top color because the rest are all underneath but the'll come along with each successive color layer. I don't like where the computer thinks a registration mark should be so I put them where they make more sense and often save some wasted vinyl.
  22. 1 point
    That looks a lot like Siser Brick. They have a few different thicknesses available although USCutter stopped carrying the 1000 micron and now just seem to have the 600. It's still a cool addition to create some extra pop. https://www.uscutter.com/New-Siser-Brick-Heat-Transfer-Vinyl-20in-x-1-Foot
  23. 1 point
    Yup...that's how I did it too in Corel. I picked an S that was an even width....converted to curves and drew a yellow line where I needed it... then centered & spaced it by the nodes. S_Road-1.eps
  24. 1 point
    Probably not in VM Cut. but maybe Inkscape has a scissor tool. I can do it in My Flexi software Either direction,
  25. 1 point
    I think it needs another watermark