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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    We have accepted this challenge, and are back with the results! And here is a close-up of the final result after weeding: The vinyl used in our test was Siser Easyweed in Matte Black, and it was cut with GreenStar Premium - Roland Compatible Blades. For more information and videos about the Prismcut, please visit PrismCut.com We're excited to be able to share these results with you all, please let us know what you think!
  2. 3 points
    At 6'7" I wear a "3xl Tall." When I was Fire Chief we had a lot of folks on the department that needed 3XL-5XL. The local screen printing shop owners were close friends so we did a lot of experimenting. Found out we were wasting time doing multiple sized images for the front of shirts. Most people can't tell the difference and if you make it real big the person looks like a walking billboard. . . and not in a good way. The back of shirts was on a case-by-case basis. If it was a short but wide graphic then it sometimes needed to be made bigger on the backs of the larger shirts. This was especially true if it was arced. Arced text on the back kind of needs to almost touch the shoulder blades to look good and when you start looking at someone my size that's quite a bit wider then a normal XL. You also need to take the weight of all that vinyl or ink into consideration. The wider it gets, the more it wants to make the shirt sag. When you scale up, the thickness of every stroke gets larger too, so if you put a 14" wide graphic on the front of a shirt there is going to be a lot of sweating going on.
  3. 2 points
    I sometimes cut up the clear silicone backing that comes on Gerber 225 vinyl and use it as a stencil. I don't know the thickness but it's less than 7 mil I think. When I do it I take some app tape and apply it to the backside of the clear backing (because the front side is what the vinyl was on and is resistant to adhesives) and use the app tape as my carrier. Sometimes a couple layers if I'm worried. It seems to work pretty good and is a lot easier to get the stencil up off of afterwords. I do like Skeeter suggested and make a couple cuts so I'm not overworking my fine tuned machine and running at full pressure can cause feed distortions especially when you are doing something strange or out-of-the-norm like we are talking about.
  4. 2 points
    Does look good. How about on regular vinyl? Let's say 651.
  5. 2 points
    From the license stipulated on page 2 of that PDF even if someone does have this collection of fonts they can not legals share it with you.
  6. 2 points
    My US Cutter vinyl cutter seems to be cutting too deep. I didn't know how to set the depth of the blade, but I saw an image on US Cutters website that showed me how far the blade should be sticking out so I just copied that...
  7. 2 points
    posted hundreds of times on the forum. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  8. 2 points
    PM me your email and I`ll send them. mark-s
  9. 2 points
    I used to try and size per shirt when using HTV but as my order sizes grew the complexity got to be too much. I now do one size for adults and then a smaller size for kids if needed. I typically take the smallest shirt and squeeze the largest size that I can get away with on it and use it on all the larger size. I HAVE offered a multi sized option a couple times when I first started worrying about this and both said all the same was fine. Now I am willing if the customer brings it up but I don't even bring it up on my end. Like you most of my sizes are around 10" standard width and 11 or 12 for a large look. The vertical size effects the width IMO. I had a guy who wanted a 11" wide one-off logo done on a hoodie. HAD to be 11 inches so i did it. It was 13" tall and almost touched the neck and pocket and he said afterword he wished he would have stuck with the 9 or 10 width I had suggested. I have gotten to the point with LC logo's that I print out about 3 sizes on paper and cut them out and see which one looks best before I commit. Usually around 4" but have some that look better a little wider and some a little smaller.
  10. 1 point
    Reminds me a little of the good old Copam that was also a stepper motor but I think a better quality stepper. I think it's like anything, there are grades of performance within steppers and servos motors alike. You do get what you pay for and for a mid level machine that looks pretty darn good. Dakota has a point, HTV is sort of cheating on the weed end because the little tags that would cause issue with the weed are less likely to cause issues in HTV but none-the-less that is pretty nice accuracy from what I see. The premium blades are a must too if trying to go down to this kind of level.
  11. 1 point
    If it is regular Mylar you will need a carrier mat. You can not cut all the way through anything without destroying the cutting strip. Trying to get the Mylar off a cutting mat may also destroy the stencil.
  12. 1 point
    it shows great precision - the easyweed makes it easier on the person doing the weeding - have to admit the precision part held up to the challenge
  13. 1 point
    You can download the latest build 24/7/365 from here: Note: this is only for PSNs that start with 114, 115, 116, 117, 131 VinylMaster Downloads
  14. 1 point
    No way. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder, as stated. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick.
  15. 1 point
    Some suggestions: Ensure that the laptop is connected to power (to ensure full power for the USB) Use a shorter USB cable Try a different USB port on the laptop
  16. 1 point
    look up the posts made by MZ Skeeter for the proper way to set a blade. Works every time.
  17. 1 point
    Did you cut the holder in half like the picture? If not, that could be the problem.
  18. 1 point
    Good idea, how'd you get the holder at that angle?
  19. 1 point
    the plus came out within a couple months of me purchasing my current ce6000-60 Sept 2016 - so if they still have ce6000's they don't turn over their stock very often.
  20. 1 point
    If it is truly a plug in, you should be able to cut from illustrator by going through the plugin. Not sure how you launch the plugin from illustrator, in corel it is in a drop down menu.
  21. 1 point
    Are you sure the Graphtec Ce6000 are not plus also? The Plus have been out well over a year. Unless there is a much cheaper price for the CE6000. then get the CE6000 Plus.
  22. 1 point
    I usually try for 10" to 10.5" wide for a regular t-shirt logo imprint.......BUT recently I have been getting a bunch of shirts that are 2X, 3X and even a couple 6X. Do you all expand the design a bit to make it take up a little more space? I realize we are limited to the heat press platen size but I have a 16x20" press so that is not an issue for me....although those 6X shirts are HUGE! I suspect these larger imprints should cost more....25% larger...25% more cost. Thanks for any suggestions/input. Sue2
  23. 1 point
    The wing is for sale on Shutterstock. it cannot be shared. https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/abstract-vector-illustration-wings-set-213524242?id=213524242&irgwc=1&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=Freepik+Company%2C+S.L.&utm_source=39422&utm_term=5ded1c27215d0.5ded1c27215d1
  24. 1 point
    Agreed, I do this sort of stuff a lot and usually cone to some terms on what will happen to the final designs. I usually provide them to the client for what we decide on up front or like he did I often do them as a free part of the order but they don't get the design unless they pay for it. ALSO even when I sell them their logo that WE designed together I keep copyright and sign over equal copyright to them without releasing my claim to the original design. Like was mentioned I have no reason nor right to go produce their products because it's their business but I may want to use the design as advertising of what I did or pull elements from it or even derivative work for someone else based on the layout or such. Fishbone is not required to HAND OVER anything without fair compensation. The FAIR part may be negotiable or even something that ends up in court but some sort of agreement is in order.
  25. 1 point
    You use a heat press. Iron your not going to get even contact throughout the design.