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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I too like SB, but Vinyl Master is a nice step up. The ability to add a bit of overcut is worth it for a value cutter if nothing else. Also, I would suggest anytime you open a design, or create a new design in SB export/save it off as an EPS file. That way, when SB does finally stop working you won't have lost all your designs.
  2. 2 points
    When buyers come here asking about the MH cutters, we always suggest the SC2. Too many problems we see on the current MH cutter. Sometimes people go ahead and buy them , then regret it, and send them back for the SC2. People seem to be pretty happy with the SC2.
  3. 2 points
    Get the best machine within your budget. You managed to keep an MH alive for 12-years, so clearly you know how to care for your equipment. You probably have done enough jobs with your MH to pay for it several times over, so you know what kind of money you can make to pay for the new machine. You definitely get what you pay for, so get the best you can within your budget. SBE shouldn't be a problem to run on an SC or any other cutter you might be considering. I runs on my Graphtec perfectly.
  4. 2 points
    Looks like your actual file is probably not prepared correctly. The B in the above does not have the inside of the letter which likely means that it was not expanded? I'd have to see the actual file. Are you expanding the letters before sending them to the machine or are you letting the plug-in do that? You always want to expand all letters and any stroked lines to outlines. Verify that the B still has the inner parts of the letter in the file and temporarily change the color of the inner parts to something other than the other colors in the file. They may need to be moved up in the layer stack to be above the main letter. You may have inadvertantly placed them on a different layer altogether which will prohibit you from allowing them to interact with each other. Once they are on top and within the same layer and either in the same group or all parts not in any special group then you can select all three parts of the B and use Command+8 on mac or Control+8 on a pc to create a compound path. Text will generate properly when you turn them into outlines and you should not have to do this unless you have done something to separate them (most likely released the compound paths in the file which is indicative of all these letters missing the inner parts) Alternatively you can place the missing parts on top of the main letter (B) and use the minus front to create a compound path however if there are more than one piece as in this case then the two or more parts have to themselves be made into a compound path using the same command+8 operation. It sounds confusing but isn't once you understand that by creating a compound path you are telling illustrator that you want the group of objects to be considered one object.
  5. 2 points
    If the jagged is evident using the test button on the plotter , the issue is within the plotter itself. Carriage s not on tracks or loose. Using the test button on the plotter eliminates all outside sources. The square and diamond should have no wiggle in the cut or pen plot.
  6. 1 point
    steer clear of the new MH and definately get the sc2 for the upgrade - pretty sure signblazer will still work with it but get the vinylmaster option when ordering to have a new updated software - - -
  7. 1 point
    It is called a null modem serial cable and that is wired different than a regular serial cable and what we usually smuggest to people looking for cables for value cutters.
  8. 1 point
    I believe for EPS files to show a thumbnail in windows they have to be saved with the thumbnail option enabled. Not sure if SB can do that or not. The other option is to install a thumbnail viewer. I use a program called sagethumbs. It allows thumbnail views of several different vector formats.
  9. 1 point
    I agree with Nudy649, the handles are susceptible to wear and may start to fail as they get worn. I have heard of people who carefully drilled out the worn holes and replaced the pins with the new sized pins but that would depend on your level of ability to make modifications. I don't know that replacement parts are available for handles and such on the budget presses but maybe there are.
  10. 1 point
    i have designs sitting around for like 2 years and the app tape is fine. I try to avoid making work ahead of time, or without being paid for first to avoid stuff sitting around though. I cut per order since I do it on the side
  11. 1 point
    Which is why I was asking. 1/2 credit card is about 10 times too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. . Vinyl is only about 2-3 mil thick and you only cut with the very tip of the blade. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  12. 1 point
    Your handle is getting ovalized inside where it pivots.
  13. 1 point
    Just me, but I wouldn't bother converting any till you know you need it and naturally any new designs I'd save in eps format.
  14. 1 point
    Right after I made my post I took the new cartridge out to inspect the inlet port. I spotted what looks like a dark gel like substance in the port. The other color ports were clear. When I get back from my running around this afternoon I'm going to try to clear it out. I'll carefully clean out what I can grab with various tools and picks and then use a syringe to try to suck out the rest and flush out whai I can. Wish me luck!!
  15. 1 point
    Pretty much all vinyl is removable, just a question of how hard it will be and how long it's been installed. Even removable vinyl can be a challenge to remove if it's been on a long time and/or exposed to the sun. Hot water makes removing vinyl a lot easier, don't think that's an option for a computer though.
  16. 1 point
    Vuelve a lo básico. Saque el soporte de la cuchilla, retire la cuchilla. Asegúrese de que no haya residuos en el soporte, como pequeños trozos de vinilo. Verifique la profundidad adecuada de la hoja. Ejecute cortes de prueba desde el panel de control de la cortadora. También debe reemplazar la tira de corte, porque parece que tiene todo tipo de rebanadas. Go back to basics. Take the blade holder out, remove the blade. Make sure there is no debris in the holder, like small bits of vinyl. Check for proper blade depth. Run test cuts from the cutter control panel. You should also replace your cutting strip, because it looks like you have all kinds of slices in it.
  17. 1 point
    I believe I showed this already on one of my Prismcut videos. It is just using common mechanics really. put the rollers on and see which one is binding. If the outmost roller, put the roller in the next slots and just bend the ends in or out just a smidge and retry the roller until its right. You want the roller in the next slot to avoid bending the entire bracket and throwing the rear one out If the innermost roller, take both out and bend the entire bracket in or out a smidge and retry until it rolls fine. I will agree that support is honestly completely useless. Once I finally got someone in support to call me, he seemed to know absolutely nothing and guessed all basic level things. If I had known the support was this poor from US Cutter, I would have bought elsewhere. Their lifetime support if bought from them appealed to me, but now I see how their support is, it is weak! They can only use covid as a crutch for so much. Dont even get me started on Vinylmaster support.
  18. 1 point
    always saved mine in folders by customer in eps so as I transitioned to different programs it was easy to import the designs - signblazer quit being developed 8 years ago when jerry died and it is just a matter of time till it quits working with new operating systems
  19. 1 point
    Any design/layout of value that I have, I will habitually save it in .eps format, so I can be jumped to other design and/or cutting software.
  20. 1 point
    I'd also suggest you know that SB is not going to work at some point so save your files in eps formats so that in the future you can open them with something else. If you do have to switch to a new program, you may have 10,000 designs, but how often do you recut them? Just keep SB around to open and covert the files as you need them.
  21. 1 point
    I can't speak to a CE7000, but it definitely works on my CE6000 Plus. I would say try it, because it really couldn't hurt. For material that thick, you might want to consider multiple passes.
  22. 1 point
    you could also just use a tape measure to get the approximate size that you're looking for.
  23. 1 point
    Who ever she got the substrates from should have the templates. Coastal, Conde, just to name a few. And remeber that you can't use most things from Wally World or the dollar stores, they need to have the proper poly coating in order to sublimate
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Madawaska Maine at the 4 Corners Marker.