All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. MZ SKEETER

    Layered Graphics not sticking to objects

    Some peeps on here do use high tack paper tape and have no problems with it. I personally have used medium tack paper tape for years, with no problems. Try each. You can wet paper tape and remove easier.
  3. JeffScott

    Layered Graphics not sticking to objects

    Thank you
  4. JeffScott

    Layered Graphics not sticking to objects

    Yes I squeegeed it down very well before pulling the tape. Only reason i used the clear tape is that the paper tape that came with the machine said "high tack" and I was afraid it would hold on to the vinyl even more. I will start using denatured alcohol in my prep as well as paper tape in the future. Thank you for your response.
  5. Dakotagrafx

    Toolbar occasionally disappears

    any word when you are opening back up for tourism?? how is everyone holding up down there?
  6. Dakotagrafx

    Layered Graphics not sticking to objects

    I agree with skeeter - clean with alcohol first - never with anything with ammonia like windex and NEVER use clear tape when applying wet
  7. MZ SKEETER

    Layered Graphics not sticking to objects

    Not being a smart person, but did you squeegee the decal down good before trying to remove the transfer tape? I don't see that mentioned. Pros use paper tape. You can even use paper tape for layering. Vinyl may not sticks to all plastics. You should wipe the surface with denatured alcohol because detergent can leave residue.
  8. Hi Folks, New to vinyl cutting, own a US cutter SC2. Machine works well and I've had some success, but when doing a two color layered graphic, using Oracal 651, whenever I go to apply the final graphic to metal or plastic substrate, the transfer tape is holding onto the vinyl and it doesn't stick down like it should. I'm using medium tack clear tape I got from US cutter with my machine. I'm peeling back at a diagonal angle, back onto itself slowly, so I'm not sure it's my technique, but it's frustrating a bit. Attached is an example of a successful transfer, although with difficulty. I'm cleaning the surfaces with a detergent cleaner, could that be the issue? Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong here? Thanks, Jeff
  9. MZ SKEETER

    Toolbar occasionally disappears

    Put a ticket in with Vinyl Master. They are your tech support. And be sure and tell them which version you are referring to.
  10. Any resolve on this topic? Been having this issue for a while now.
  11. ManFromMobay

    what would you do? layered help

    Print
  12. ManFromMobay

    Who is your GOTO for Shirts

    My go to is Jiffy Shirts, next up is Bulk Apparel
  13. ManFromMobay

    Would this be possible?

    You can! I did an order once where the transfer mask peeled small specks of black out of my design, I just cut htv for the black lettering and pressed it on there,
  14. slice&dice

    Oki 711WT Printer Troubleshooting Registration

    Cliff it.
  15. I assuming you're taking the ball from the left and punching it through to get the results. You want the inverse of that so. Draw a circle slightly larger than the ball, then punch the ball through the new circle, then punch that image through the shield image.
  16. Hello! We bought an Oki 711WT in October at the ISS show. It's been a nightmare since troubleshooting it with the company we bought it from and directly with Oki to this day. They have sent techs multiple times, replaced many parts and sent new printers, and no one can figure it out. I figured y'all might be able to offer some insight as it seems odd to have a continuous issue. The registration is off on each printer. The color tuning pattern page shows the magenta column squares slightly off in different directions on each box that is surrounded by cyan. When we print anything in color, the added layer of white is offset creating a thin white and sometimes cyan/yellow outline around some parts of the image and it is not consistent. Here's everything we've tried through countless hours of phone calls and in-person Oki techs: Auto Adjusted Registration 7 times before printing. (an Oki suggestion) Moved cyan drum to the magenta slot and confirmed that the middle column on the Color Tuning Pattern is still off on registration. Had an Oki tech come out twice -- he has no idea what's wrong and can't resolve it. Replaced the magenta drum. Replaced the transfer belt. Replaced the IBD-5 Maintenance Board. Replaced the Sensor. Replaced the entire printer - every single piece. Printed directly from Illustrator. Printed directly from the Rip. Verified the file being used to test printing on our side with Oki and the company we purchased the printer from -- works on their printers. Tried printing from a Mac. Tried printing from a PC. Oki blamed our electricity (confusing) so we tried it in the office and we tried it at home. Same issue at both locations. Printed on Forever Dark Transfer Paper. Printed on Magic Touch Wow Paper. Tried printing full-color graphics. Tried printing simple colored boxes. Tried printing from a PNG, TIFF, and straight from the AI Vector file. Adjusted density settings for each drum. Leveled the printer completely in every direction. Original company we purchased from said it was a user error. We filmed us doing the entire process to show and he said we did everything correctly. Took design and our computer to the local distributor and printed to their printer directly and had no issue. Replaced the printer cable 3 times. Asked Mesa Supplies, Forever Transfer, Coastal, and Johnsons Plastics for help. No one has any suggestions. Spent 7 months and way too many hours on the phone with Oki/Magic Touch and memorized their hold music. It feels like a lie as examples we were shown at NBM and ISS do not equal the product we have. No one at the shows actually prints at the shows and comes with pre-printed transfers. And the fact that their tech can't resolve it. At this point, the only use for it is to print white-only graphics or only utilize full-color graphics on white tees. Neither of which justifies the cost of this printer nor what we intended to use it for. Here's our setup: Mac OS 10.13.6 and Windows 10 64 Printing from either Adobe Illustrator CC 2015 (as recommended from Oki) and SpaceControl (as recommended from Magic Touch) Printer is connected via a normal printer cable - USB2.0, with gold plated connectors Settings on the printer are set to those recommended by Forever Printing from MPT I've uploaded images of the Color Tuning Pattern page, and simple square tests and full-color image tests done with Forever Dark Paper on a black tee. Uploaded to Google Drive: Oki Printer Issue Photos At very least this might help someone else with troubleshooting. :D But we'd sure love any suggestions to help resolve this.
  17. blade depth, offset, overcut. also possible factors - design, size, speed. give us a little more info, we can help to narrow it down for you. even a picture of the area that is not completing the cut will be helpful.
  18. Wildgoose

    What is wrong with my file?

    I don't think stray nodes would cause the second copy to suddenly be turned 90deg and have all that gibberish. I lean toward the memory being overloaded or perhaps static. If you can cut one just fine but two is a problem than it's probably your machine limitations. To be sure your file is ok turn the view to outline and select the whole thing and see if you can see any weird parts light up (indicating a stray node) or hidden layer that doesn't have any fill colors assigned. You can also usually see each item in the layer stack over on the side and select each item by clicking the little round button in it's layer and see what lights up. This is a pretty basic design so there should not be too many items over there. If some of them are in groups tool them open and be sure there aren't hidden items stuck in a group. I think you will see them just from going into wire frame but sometimes not.
  19. I can't remember what terms VM uses to discuss these kinds of things. The ball in question is either a 1 or 2 color object. If 2 color and the white is layered on top of a black circle then ungroup it and just use the white. If its a single color object and what appears white is actually a hole in the black circle it is a compound shape and you can usually release it which will make it a 2 layer object. Sometimes if I am unsure if something is layered or a compound (hole or "knock-out") I will create a new object and change the color and drop it down so it is on a lower layer than the object in question and drag it in behind the object to see if I can see the color show up behind it. When dealing with black and white on a white screen it can get confusing.
  20. Wildgoose

    My cutter doesn’t completely finish the cut

    I was typing the same thing when Dakota beat me to it. There is some erroneous instructions that are floating around to use half a credit card depth. That's literally about 10 times too much. Even the cheap vinyl is usually only 3 mil thick which is very nearly the same as a human hair. Too much blade out causes a surprising amount of problems and is by far the number one set up error of new users. When set correctly and cutting though the vinyl with just enough force to scratch the liner lightly you should be able to see just a touch of light between the bottom of the blade holder and the vinyl if you get down at eye level while it is cutting. If after correctly getting dialed in there is a setting in your software called "Overcut" which will drag the knife a little farther past the end of the start point. Most cutters do not need overcut if set up correctly. IF you DO use it don't get too carried away, a little bit will do it. You are basically compensating for the castor action on the blade tip so your overcut in theory should not need to ever be more than the blade offset value you used to get good square corners.
  21. Dakotagrafx

    My cutter doesn’t completely finish the cut

    What plotter and what software? If something like an me or redsail the course nature of their stepper motors can be fixed with over cut in many softwares if you have that option. Before you ask that is totally different from offset that should not be changed if you have good sharp corners. Many people also have easy too much blade exposure when starting out . . . Directions on blade exposure can be found in the instructional contributions section of the forum .
  22. Hi everyone, This is kind of hard to explain. I poked around the forum a bit trying to see if anyone had the same problem but I didn’t see anything really. Ok…my problem. My cutter doesn’t completely finish the cut. It leaves behind a small connection from where it starts to where it ends so when I weed it, it snags a little. I changed the blade but the same thing happens. It’s a very VERY slight left over piece. It normally just rips apart but sometimes it leave behind a jagged mark on an otherwise clean cut. Thanks
  23. When trying to put the small soccer ball on the object the black and white get inverted. I want the soccer ball to like the soccer ball in the top left. I have tried using weld and punch. I have also tried using combine. The black vinyl will be put on a wh ite wall.
  24. slice&dice

    What is wrong with my file?

    Two words ---- "Stray Nodes"
  25. haumana

    What is wrong with my file?

    *cough* *cough* It's logo that is copyrighted. I do not encourage you post copyrighted items, even pen plotted attempts at them, without explicit permission from the copyright holder. That being said, you should check out a website called Brands of the World.
  26. skarekrow

    What is wrong with my file?

    Is the File in question a .svg or .eps format? If I remember correctly, SignCut will accept .eps files but was less error prone (for me) with ,svg. Also, if you can post the actual file and someone can try a few test procedures.
  1. Load more activity