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  1. Today
  2. I highly recommend you get to know how to do node edits. It's going to be your best friend. It's a simple, but very power skill to have.
  3. jmas

    Some suitable products for Plasterboard wall

    This may not help because I think you may be printing it? I haven't printed wall designs and I don't know what is available in Australia, but I know a little about Oracal 631wall vinyl if that helps. I've done a handful of wall vinyl jobs for businesses, a couple with Oracal 751 because they didn't care and didn't want to wait for me to order 631, the rest with 631. 631 looks better and it's insanely cheap. Normal vinyl doesn't look as good because it's glossy and every little bump shows through. 631 is matte, and while the bumps show through, the matte texture helps them blend in with the vinyl. 631 really looks like the design was painted onto the wall, 731 looks like a shiny decal was put on the wall. Expect it to rip the paint off when removed. It may not, it's supposed to be designed not to rip the paint off, but the one time I tried removing it a month after install, it took paint with it. I just assume that it will damage the paint if removed. It will last a long time. I did some for businesses 5 years ago that are still on the wall and still look the same as they did when first installed. Most are in air-conditioned rooms but one of my largest was 16ft long and installed in a non-air conditioned building. It's exposed to 100 degree temps in the summer and it still looks perfect 5 years later. Rain and sunlight would surely damage it, but age and heat alone hasn't seemed to.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Try a different cutting software. Signblazer is free use the setup exe download Try the Copam CP-2500 model Command HP-GL http://www.uscuttersupport.com/downloads/Software/SignBlazer/ On Windows 10 does the driver show up in Printers for the Graphtec Ce5000? You could also try a trial of VinylMaster Demo And see if you can at least connect to USB https://vinylmaster.software/ Free demo
  6. yes, I put the cutter in gp-gl mode, would the plotter's USB output be burned?
  7. Did you put the cutter command on GPGL? It must be for Cutting master
  8. hello, I'm using cutting master v4 windows 10 computer I've tried other USB ports on the computer but to no avail. thought it could be the plotter's usb output.
  9. Are you sure that the driver installed correctly.? Have you tried a different USB cable.? Which computer operating system? Which cutting software are you using?
  10. the computer does not recognize the plotter. I've reinstalled the drive but to no avail.
  11. darcshadow

    Some suitable products for Plasterboard wall

    I've done some basic ones for my own kids room, it's textured drywall and the Oracal 631 worked great. It stayed up for 2 or 3 years, don't remember exactly. I wouldn't use the "normal" vinyl, at least not if you want to remove it without damaging the wall.
  12. darcshadow

    Rectangle with rounded edges

    If you're ever unsure about how an object will actually cut, view it in wireframe mode and you'll see what the cutter sees. Just because something looks good on screen doesn't mean it'll cut that way.
  13. bob-le-bob

    Rectangle with rounded edges

    How about that, I just figured it out! Apparently I needed to transform the shape rather than add an effect. Thanks anyway though
  14. MZ SKEETER

    Some suitable products for Plasterboard wall

    I can tell you, I do not do wall decals, never have and never will. I have expressed numerous times on here that I would not add wall decals to my business. Too many variables with walls and paint.
  15. Wildgoose

    Rectangle with rounded edges

    So I'm trying to understand your question. Are you saying that you HAVE the rounded rectangle (previously created) and want to ADD a second one without rounded corners and then cut them both? Do you want to cut them at the same time or separately? If at the same time are you wanting a "compound shape" with the inside one being a hole in the outside one? Or two separate colors and therefore two cuts? Maybe a screenshot of what you are working on would help to understand what you are dealing with.
  16. The Flaming Eyeball

    Outline.....for the life of me I can't figure this out

    I do know how to node edit, but when using the outline effect vs. the outline module you can't edit the nodes from what I can tell.
  17. The Flaming Eyeball

    Outline.....for the life of me I can't figure this out

    OK, all thanks for the advice. Sleep helped, as usual it came to me as I was just drifting off......what if I punched it out....? zzzzzzzzzz......... So this morning tried again. Used the Outline module, which makes it a separate graphic, so to speak. Did that twice, and punched it out from the second one, which was a bit smaller. Viola! I now have an outline that I can resize and no extra stuff in the middle! As for the blades dulling, that was a theoretical statement to avoid extra cutting, this is still my first blade, and I've cut a lot of stuff with it over the past year+ and I don't see any signs of it stopping yet. I now have a clean outline that I can change colors on and have it separate from the graphic so it will all be one layer, with no weird cutting lines in the middle
  18. bob-le-bob

    Rectangle with rounded edges

    This is driving me a little mad! I've created a rectangle in illustrator with rounded edges, when I send it to cutting master 4 it shows with square edges. A bit of digging later and I found a suggestion to expand the shape appearance. I now have the CM4 wanting to cut the round edged rectangle and the square edged one on top of each other. I'm pretty sure I'm not asking for anything too complex and theres a very simple solution... Help :)
  19. Umm... if you're just cutting regular vinyl and your blades are dulling quickly, you need to buy better blades. I have a 60* Clean Cut blade that I've been using for 10+ years, even cutting reflective once in a while. Creating outlines don't always work ideally for me, so that's when I just delete the nodes that I don't need.
  20. haumana

    MAINTENANCE MANUAL REQD

    Skeeter's instructions: This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and in your hand, firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  21. I couldn't figure out how to freehand drawing in VM, not sure it has that feature. I have been doing that stuff in Inkscape and transferring to VM. I use a XP-Pen : https://www.xp-pen.com ( Deco 03 ) drawing tablet and the pencil tool for drawing in Inkscape . For some projects, if you use detailed sketches for instance, it is probably better to use the bezier tool, but you can sketch with the calligraphy tool quite nicely too.
  22. slice&dice

    Some suitable products for Plasterboard wall

    This is a question that MzSkeeter probably can provide her insight. She does wall decals.
  23. Two things -- 1. You noted " why waste even the smallest amount of cutting with my blade, and shorten the life unnecessarily. " Not a realistic fear, blades will last for years & replacements are cheap anyway. Just cut those extra little shapes and weed 'em. or 2. Node Edit and remove the extra stuff you don't want. Do you know how to do that?
  24. HI I would like to have a look at the file you are using. Would you mind saving it as a pdf or an ai file and uploading it?
  25. I had a decal I made previously. I added an outline and was able to cut it just like I wanted: an outline. Now, I'm trying to create a new decal and do the same effect....but now I keep getting the outline in all the holes (and yes, I've tried both with keeping the holes and without) And I get these weird anomalies in the small holes of the graphic. So these are the two graphics. The one on the left is the one I've done previously, the right is the current project. Red circles are the weird outlines that show better in the wire frame in the next pic. Left pic is how I want it to cut, I suppose I could cut it like the right and weed it all out, but why waste even the smallest amount of cutting with my blade, and shorten the life unnecessarily. I'm using Vinyl Master LTR, and was able to do this just fine previously, but different day, no joy. Any guesses? TIA.
  26. Last week
  27. kainth.c.s

    MAINTENANCE MANUAL REQD

    Can I get to know the instructions here on how to set the blade depth for slightly short blade holder?
  28. The pricking would not help me here as the polycarbonate we use is in 25 sheets each 2.4 m long x 1.2 m high, so we will be looking at a lot of bubbles through them. We tried squeeging it to the limit, then leaving it again and squeeging it again but the small bubbles still keep popping up and so are the water pockets. We were told by someone that we need to allow Polycarbonate to degas for a couple of days (Minimum 96 hours) so all the gases in it can escape. Obviously, with translucent films, we can't use too much soap and it settles down way too quickly. Anybody in the business of Window Tinting, please help?
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