Help, I need my "A" HOLE, please advise

[Guest gracewriter]

When I select weld only the whole thing disappeared.

[Guest gracewriter]

Maybe I'm using the wrong tool to make the lines?

[kenimes 42]

Should be using the polyline tool to make the lines. Tykites method worked for me, first try.

[Guest gracewriter]

Woo Hoo!!!  Mission accomplished!

Sweet!

Now the really scary part, find the mylar and coax this machine into cutting it. 

Thanks to everyone.

Jay, you're the greatest!

Best,

Jude

[MattS 0]

I am very curious about the pcut cutting the .14 mylar.  I use that same size mylar and smaller all the time for other stuff.  I would love to be able to cut it on the pcut.  Let me know how it works.

Matt

[Guest gracewriter]

So far with all the searching on this forum.  Looks like you need the 60 degree blade, you have to slow down the cutting time and adjust the pressure.  None of which I know anything about yet.

I don't think there is any reason why it wouldn't cut it.  There are 390 mils in one milimeter.  14 mils is tiny compared to how thick this cutter will cut.  I've read the polyester mylar works best.  Won't know until I try.  Right now I'm waiting on getting the cash to buy the 6-degree blade.  Hopefully any day now.  I'll be back when I try it and let you know.

[MattS 0]

I have a ton of mylar from 5 mil to 20 mil.  I might give some of the thinner stuff a try with a 45 blade.  I got some 60's in the mail right now.

[Guest gracewriter]

Please let us know how it goes and what you have to program your settings to to make it work. 

Thanks!

Jude

[MattS 0]

I tried some 7mil mylar tonight.  Speed was 10, blade was 45 degree, pressure was 255, success was 0. 

The 45 degree blade never made it, even with everything maxed out.  I even increased the blade depth so that wouldn't hang up.

A 60 might cut the thinner stuff like this, but I doubt it on the 14mil.  Plus with the blade pressure you will need, you will probably be going threw blades quite often.  But that is just my guess.

Matt

[Guest gracewriter]

Thanks Mat.  Disappointing but hey worth a try.  I"d still like to see what someone can do with a 60 degree blade.

Best,

Jude

[freebird1963 11]

Thanks but am lost on this part

Make line where you want to have you connecting lines("Stencil - Lines.png")

Don't get it. what are these for or do ?

THanks

Mark

[Guest gracewriter]

This is if you want to make stencils for things like painting on wood.  The lines are to make bridges so you don't lose your A, B D, D, ect holes.

Or did you have another question?

This was a hard one for me to figure out without knowing what I was doing.

[freebird1963 11]

Thanks.

I am interested in making stencils for glass etching.

Not use to signblazer. I have the demo right now. Been using signgo.

Thanks very much.

Mark

[Guest gracewriter]

I really like signblazer.  I couldn't figure out signgo (was a complete graphic software novice when I started less than a month ago)  and that's why I went with sign blazer.

If you are not going to reuse the stencil, don't worry about the bridge lines.

I guess you already know about the sandblast vinyl.  It's really pricy for what I'm doing.

To make the line, click polyline then click where you want the line to go, then right click and choose "close"

Then select all, then choose arrange, weld, punch through, then select the polyline you drew, then click delete.  I think.

I use the polyline all the time now to delete portions of graphics I don't want.

Would love to see your work sometime.

Hope this helped a little, if not start a new thread.  These people are really helpful and friendly.