Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Was wondering if my head on the left side is dried up cause the lack of black. Here's a test print. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 looks like time for a black head, is the heater turned off causing that pooling of ink? - what is with the magenta in the yellow? and cyan in the magnenta? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 my bad - just looked up the fj-600 and seen it can't be converted to solvent ink so no heater - so you are printing pigment ink on the vinyl? - that explains the droplets Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Yeah Dakota. But you think that's what it is and that I need a black head? Did a few test prints a few weeks ago in a red piece and it turned out good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 my guess is the black head is fubar - but how are you getting the cross contamination on the other colors?Have you had it plugged in so it would do cleaning cycles since you last used it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Yeah it's been plugged in. But it wasnt kicking on. I've had it for maybe a month or 2 now. Been in my apartment sitting. I did the head cleaning right before the pic was taken. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 keep cleaning - water based heads might be able to be brought back - solvent I wouldn't have counted on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Ok Dakota thanks. Ill let u know after a few cycles. How do I set it to do the cycles? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 not sure on the older water based ones - the solvent printers have it autmatically - is really a necessesity with them as if you let them sit a few days you buy all new heads if they didn't clean automatically Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Can't get this thing to print for the life of me. Got the xp computer and using the color choice. It just won't recognize it. I have it connected by Ethernet and a USB parallel cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 did you load the drivers from roland first? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 28, 2013 Dakota I got it printing. Did a test print and for vinyl it didnt look bad. Can I put a canvas like paper through it for a test ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 28, 2013 paper, sihl water based vinyl. make sure it is for water based ink Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 29, 2013 Ok cool thanks. Check it out. Here's the first pic. What do u think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 29, 2013 is it supposed to be red and what are the streaks going in different areas on the different pics? What do you plan to use this for - indoor posters? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 29, 2013 I have no clue. I just saved a random pic off google. It his was on the white vinyl too. The larger pic I did didnt have them in it at all. How do I adjust the coloring? Yeah I plan on using it for indoor posters and eventually dirtbike graphics when I work out all the kinks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 29, 2013 you will want to find the right profiles for that printer - on the dirtbike graphics - normally you use convex which is an agressive adhesive for the low energy plastics used on them - you won't find a water based version of it for that ink. you are pretty limited on material to the sihl and I think there is a mactac vinyl for water based. on regular vinyl it won't adhere or penetrate the vinyl and will wipe off easy evan after days of drying. everything will need laminating even on the aqueous based vinyls. How Solvent Inks Work What makes solvent inks different from water-based ink? Aside from the fact that solvent inks are not based on water, they are pigment inks. Water-based inks are dye inks, by contrast. Pigment inks are necessary to ensure that the outdoor signage materials to be printed are impervious to the elements, will not fade easily, and are resistant to scratches. Solvent inks work best with non-absorbent and uncoated printing media, such as self-adhesive vinyl. The solvent in the ink is supposed to keep the pigments in liquid form while they are applied on the printing medium using the large-format printer. Because the printing medium is uncoated and non-absorbent, the ink is usually formulated with adhesive resins or glues that are supposed to help the pigments bind with the printing medium. The binding happens when the solvent in the ink evaporates. Solvent inks require heat in order for the printout to dry. The mild inks take some time to dry and require a lot of heat. On the other hand, the aggressive types are easier to dry and need less heat to get this done. In addition, aggressive solvents result in printouts that are more durable against the weather, are resistant to fading and resistant to scratching. More importantly, printouts created with aggressive solvents tend to be glossier and display brighter colors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 29, 2013 As you found out in your test prints the ink is laying on top and even creating droplets because it can't penetrated the vinyl like it can paper products it was made for. that is why you can only use special vinyl coated for water based ink The term solvent inks refers to printer inks made using various kinds of solvents, also known as volatile organic compounds that are often oil-based liquids. These inks are primarily used for different types of commercial ink-jet printers, while office and personal ink-jet printers commonly use aqueous ink that is water-based. Unlike aqueous ink, solvent ink can be used to print directly on plastic, vinyl, and other non-absorbent materials. Solvent ink is most commonly used to print items such as signs and banners used outdoors and has to be highly resistant to damage and fading caused by weather, scratching and ultraviolet radiation. There are two main types of solvent inks: hard solvent inks which dry quickly and are very durable, and eco-solvent inks that dry more slowly and are somewhat less durable but also give off less hazardous fumes while drying. Solvent ink is made with pigment, which provides the color; resin, which makes the color stick to the surface the ink is applied to; and a carrier fluid which keeps the pigment and resin in a liquid state until the ink is applied by an ink-jet printer. Different solvent inks use different kinds of solvents as carrier fluids. The choice of solvent determines if the ink is an eco-solvent ink or a hard ink. Once the ink has been applied by the printer, the carrier fluid evaporates in the drying process. All types of solvent ink produce some fumes while drying, but eco-solvent ink produces less fumes. For this reason, eco-solvent ink generally does not require special ventilation in the printing area. However, ink-jet printers using eco-solvent ink usually require heaters to make the ink dry properly, something that is not needed for the hard solvent inks. This means that hard solvent ink can be used on many types of surfaces that are sensitive to heat. Hard solvent ink is generally considered the most durable for outdoor use, though the durability of eco-solvent inks is also quite high. Water-based inks can be used for outdoor purposes, but they are much less durable than solvent inks and require special coatings in order to stick to materials such as vinyl and plastics. Solvent ink bonds to these types of materials much better than water-based ink, because solvent ink is a non-polar substance, just like the plastic or vinyl it is printed on. This shared chemical property is what makes solvent ink able to penetrate and adhere to these non-absorbent surfaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 29, 2013 Thanks alot Dakota. Where are the profiles located? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 29, 2013 back when I used color rip on the first printer a friend had some custom ones they sent me. some are avaiable from roland here http://support.rolanddga.com/_layouts/rolandreports/_productsupportsearch.aspx?pf=Software most of the time due to the differences in printers, inks, media for the older software like that there is special software to make your own as I recall - since going to versaworks I don't have to worry about that hardly anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 29, 2013 I found a update for color rip 2, only had the fj-540 on it though. Went through it and found all the profiles. But no luck with printing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 30, 2013 I hated color rip . . . was a pain and a lot of trial and error to get anything to print right. post a sample image and the printed version. again print on paper so it soaks in and looks as it will - you will get really weird mixing when all the ink stays liquid on top of the vinyl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip_frannie 47 Posted June 30, 2013 Ok I will tomorrow. What software do u suggest ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 30, 2013 I've never used it but I heard onyx is good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted June 30, 2013 http://www.onyxgfx.com/index.php?area=produce Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
