kainth.c.s
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Posts posted by kainth.c.s
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Your machine will cut exactly what you feed into it. In this case, your best bet would be to pass the profile through a third party software which can smoothen the jagged edges.
If you feel good, you can share the file here, I will give it a shot
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Bummer stickers?????
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Quite possibly as slice and dice mentioned, optical sensor might have malfunctioned or may be the cause of static buildup due to movement of PVC Vinyl that might have caused the tracker to malfunction. As skeeter said, the best suited answer will come from their tech support of forum
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Alternatively, hit out at free font site, look for decorative fonts or spooky fonts and type the text in the search bar just above the list. It will show you how the text you entered looks in the font
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May be a picture of the signage will help (including the boards). Obviously, getting a new board in and putting the print.decals on it will be quickest and easiest way
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My company was recently acquired. With that change, I need to change the signage. The vinyl has been on the sign for years, 10+.
I used soap and water and a scraper on one side. Few spots scraped up the aluminum board and still a lot of residue left behind.
Any suggestions?
Any reason why you want to keep the old Aluminum board for the factory?
The only reason I can think of might be if the aluminum board is hard riveted to the warehouse walls
Use heat gun to warm it up and then peel it off. Make sure, it is just warmed up, not cooked as Aluminum will buckle under heat too. For the residue, dab a cloth in turpentine, rub over the board and leave it for about 10 mins.
For new substrate, give Maxmetal or Dibond (both trade names for Aluminum Composite panel) used for Cladding a try
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Thanks for the advise Kainth, I got a couple holders blue and red from cleancut on my first order of blades, I'll try out the new holder and see if that helps, the original blue graphtec seems good and not loose, I cleaned and lubed with a light oil too. So it's ok to adjust the offset, I thought Skeeter had said to leave it at zero? Or is that just a starting point to fine tune from there.
You need to figure out what is the standard blade holder shape and size that comes with your plotter from the manufacturer. The holders you have may be the aftermarket ones and you need to play around with the settings and exposure to get your cut right. I own a creation PCUT CT630 (Imitation machine from China) which came with a black plastic blade holder of 28 mm Overall length. However, there were some Aluminum blade holders corresponding to the same shape but with 27.5 mm Overall length. This .5 mm difference made the holder to work fine by exposing the blade a bit more and adjusting the pressure. Sometimes you need to do these tricks with the aftermarket blades. With the pictures you have posted, these results come up with the offset issue. Give it a shot mate. If it doesn't work out, then you can bring back the offset to zero and look for some other cause
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Yeah, I didn't think it was relevant at first, my friend had gotten it and only ran it about a month before moving on from it, he was wanting to use it for his side tint gig where he cuts the tint by hand on the windows but I guess it was too much for him to learn. I don't even do vinyl but I do photo prints, this model was recommended for cutting out photo prints on paper with a software called Imageprint red and cut it out add on software that automatically nests photos and creates cut lines, reg marks and barcodes. It does very well with that as it cuts on the channel and not the strip in condition 3 and I do a perforated cut, but I wanted to learn more of how to cut other materials as I was having a hard time to cut stickers accurately to add a coupon code to my business cards, it's a holographic material and having a hard time to read the marks on it, I've come up with a solution I haven't tried yet though as I'll try mounting the 8x10" holographic sticker paper centered to a 13x19" white cardstock paper I can print the reg marks and barcode on, I figure I can do the layout in Illustrator. Pic is the sticker paper and what I'm looking to cut out on right, that one I just cut out by hand real quick that's why it's not smooth, but that's the idea. Thanks for your help Skeeter! I guess I'm going to hold off more testing on this until I get the new strip and blades.
So, being a second hand machine, you will be clueless about how it had been handled in the past. A good choice will be to replace the blade holder as well as the bearing inside it might be playing up. Keep adjusting the blade offsets as well till you get nice crisp corners
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Quite possible, it might be the vinyl itself. Either it might have gone post its shelf life or exposed to heat or sunlight making it hard to score using vinyl cutter.
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I don't know vinylmaster but this is how I did it in Illustrator.
You select everything, then you go to the Shape builder tool then select the area on either side of the curves. It will make the wireframe into three separate shapes
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Summa D series are old & reliable machines. What I remember from the top of my head are these are one of the few machines along with Creation and Graphtec which have 0.6 inch blades to fit in their holders, rest all have 0.8 largely to suit Roland type Blades and holders. Great in reliability but you need to remember they might have stepper motors for the blade carriage and rollers which are very likely to develop positioning errors over the time. The extent of the errors depends on how roughly the machine has been handled in the past. Give it a shot and it would tell you itself. You need to go slower with these machines and they will look after you. I have a imitation of Creation PCUT CT630 for the last 8 years. Never had an issue except a few positioning errors which are pretty much obviuous keeping in mind the age and the usage of the machine
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See the information on the right. It seems it has 3 different nodes/curve. What I believe from the screenshot are it is separate for the body, separate for the legs and separate for the curved joiners. I may be wrong, but we need to have a look at the actual file to suggest what is the issue. Any chance you can share it, then we can have a look if it suits you
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I’ve adjusted speed, pressure and blade a bunch of times and I’m not sure what else to do.
A few pieces of my decal keep wanting to come with the bigger piece of vinyl.
I’m using 651, it happens on different designs.
Please share a photo of the artwork and a zoomed in cutting line done on the vinyl. Also, I guess it may be beacuse your cuts may not be closing properly. A zoomed in image of the cutting line done for a small shape will clarify
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It's Creation PCUT CT1200 and will work well on Flexi. I have a PCUT CT630
See this is what I have. The control panel is the same as yours one. So I confidently beliwve its Creation Pcut CT series or CTO series.
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By the way what software are you using for cutting? I use Flexi 10. This file I sent is a Autocad 2000 dxf
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So I drew something up in autocad... I drew the lines I wanted to be the blade path. It recognises each line individually but the white space in-between is what I want to be the actual object. How do I fill in these lines?
Hi
Please elaborate what you are trying to achieve. The vinyl cutter blade will cut on the line and it depends whether you need a normal sticker or a skeleton or negative cut sticker that you weed around.
However, if your issue is it lifts up at the end of each line, then use PEDIT command in autocad, select any line, press Y for yes then J for join and select everything. It will make all connected objects as one polyline. I always use AutoCAD and Polylines get imported nicely. This PEDIT command converts all individual shapes into one polyline and the cutter software is convinced that the whole polyline is one single shape rather than a number of shapes.
Give this file a try. I am pretty confident that you shouldn't have any problem with this file.
Alternatively, you can send me your file (dxf) and I will have a look at it.
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Just bought trying to hook it up. But don’t know what Model it is . Also if anyone has it are you using Flexi???
or did I just buy a paper weight
thank you!
It's Creation PCUT CT1200 and will work well on Flexi. I have a PCUT CT630
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Thank you guys for all of your suggestions but I'm still lost:( I have looked all over this program and I don't see anything off. I find the calibration on it but I'm not cutting it, I'm just trying to print it to my sublimation printer. That may not matter but I'm not sure how to calibrate for printing instead of cutting. The height prints correct but the width comes out short every time. I attached a couple of pictures of what my screens look like. Maybe you will see something that I am missing
Check this thread I found online. Hopefully this helps
https://lkc.hp.com/forum/printers/prints-are-printing-out-smaller-than-the-file-size
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I am new to sublimation and using Vinyl Master LTR and I can't get the sizing correct. I put the dimensions in and when I print it the Height always prints out smaller than the size that I have put in there. When I go to print my design then it is so hard to just get what I want to print to come up on the display to be printed. I have used this program to do vinyl and it took me a while to learn but now I'm questioning if it is a good program for sublimation. Maybe I am missing something that needs to be changed in order to do sublimation.
Most of the softwares are pre programmed to cut with some margin as their default preferences settings. Look out your software, preferable under the setup/preferences sections or directly on the printing dialog box what % of size w.r.t. the nominal size is getting printed. As you said, it is printing smaller than the sizes you enter in the drawing, there should be a figure of less than 100% somewhere under that setting. It can also be though about some deflections during printing but unlikely if the profile you end up getting is what you programmed
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What is the reason you're wanting it centered? Typically people just cut relative to the origin then piece together the design as necessary. This way, typically, cuts down on the amount of wasted vinyl.
Probably he might thinking of producing a decal with outside edge of the vinyl roll to be used for aligning. Or a stencil with vinyl roll's outer edge to be used for aligning.
CWS! Please correct if I am wrong
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I made some progress. I edited the HPGL file to contain a newline (line feed 0x0A) after every semicolon. I.e. instead of this:
IN;PU958,4935;PD958,4935;PD915,4932;PD916,4724;PD1001,4724;PD1001,4932;
I send this to the plotter:
IN;
PU958,4935;
PD958,4935;
PD915,4932;
PD916,4724;
PD1001,4724;
PD1001,4932;And now it plots the path perfectly.
I have no idea how or why this works. Line feed characters are supposed to be ignored in HPGL. Maybe this extra (ignored) character introduces just enough delay between commands for the embedded CPU to be ready when the next command comes. So I'm not sure if it's a fault in the plotter but I have an effective work-around. I have done several paper plots and vinyl cuts and it seems 100% reliable now with this hack. I will try to add a feature to inkcut to insert this padding character automatically.
I have successfully used other US Cutter plotters with Linux and inkcut before, but with an RS-232 connection, not USB directly into the plotter. I suspect the problem is not really specific to the MH365 but something about how the plotter's USB interface sends data to the CPU.
It is to do with the two things:
1. Data transfer type (USB Cable/ Serial Adapter): The serial adapter is much reliable and too less prone to errors and data losses during transmissions. I learnt it the hard way after ruining 40 dollars worth of vinyl about 5 years ago and haven't used USB port since then. My advice is either get a laptop or a desktop with just enough programs and keep it permanently hooked to the plotter using serial cable and not USB cable
2. Security features of the Ubuntu itself: Almost all the cutters are built up to work well on the windows operating system. Ubuntu/Linux being equipped with many more security features finds most of the cutters struggling to go through
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I’ve been working on a project ready for cut, and after I separated my image to cut by color. My program froze. When I reopened most of my progress was gone but when I opened recent file it showed up on the thumb nail when I closed out file it ask to save and I hit yes and when I open the recent file it open the file I had just closed. Can I revert before the save because I never saved the original before the freeze.
Look online for some backup files being created for your particular programing software. Almost every software does it by default. It is just the matter of finding it out which file. Hopefully, your software might have some backup file saved somewhere in the temporary files folder. If you happen to find one, just google it on how to retrieve it. Many a times the backup files are retrieved by the same software.
Fingers crossed by if it fails, then really tough luck mate
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Wildgoose, choosing an appropriate font for a particular 'message' is a gift I happen to have.
I did a tow truck a while back, and the Magneto font just seemed right --- the owner of the business was thrilled and put this 'logo' onto his business cards, and website, and facebook, and he got some nice compliments from friends and family.
There was another truck, for KHAN BROS. and they're Mid-Easterners (I think from Saudi Arabia) so I chose a font that looked kinda MidEastern-y.
I get a lot of trucks because a commercial truck dealership refers buyers to me, for their DOT decals and door lettering!
At the end of the day, we have to work as per the client's directions as we are getting paid by them. But, a general trend is: Simple and clear are surely making a comeback against Fancy and Cursive when information needs to be displayed. Calligraphy, Cursive and Fancy fonts are preferred for parties hangups and easel boards. At least this is what I have figured out from the works I have done in the past
Cutting strip for Creation PCUT CTO630
in Creation PCUT Cutting Plotter Support Requests
Posted
Hello everyone.
I own a Creation PCUT CTO630 as shown in the picture. I need to replace the cutting strip on the machine. I already flipped it and now it needs to be replaced.
My questions:
1. Is the cutting strip 8 mm in width and in teflon? Please confirm if anyone has the cutter or has done it.
2. Will any 8 mm Cutting strip fit on to the cutter or it needs to have a certain profile?
3. If it needs to have a certain profile, wherein I can buy it from? Any ebay link will do.
Thanks in advance