mopar691

I agree with 300. Thirty shirts would be a breeze. I would not screen that quanity, Vinyl it!!

I would not suggest using greenstar or 651 for any wall applications as these are permanent adhesives and may damage wall upon removal. As far as trying to save money on materials, your selling these so the price of your materials would reflect on your pricing. Using the correct product for the end use is a good basis to start with in your business. Greenstar, 651 or any other permanent vinyl being used as a wall/interior graphic application is not a good choice. Damage to walls and its high gloss should be enough to deter one from using it. 631 is matte for interior applications and has a water based non permanent adhesive designed for this. Gloss on a wall with lighting is extremely hard to read.

i keep reading this and keep wondering why your going to spend all the money on buying a wrapping cast for this. Im not sure of the class or sanction of the car cause the pic is really fuzzy but that would point me in a bit better direction. From what i can tell wrap it in a black cast if there is alot of curves, if its a flatter sheeted body wrap it in 651. If you have a unlimited advertising budjed and like to blow money to have it look good prior to the first rubbin go ahead and use 970. I do think nomatter which material you use its gunna get beat up and and show signs of failure toward the end of the season with no panel replacememnts. It it the nature of the beast. The 970 to me seems like a lot of money that could be better spent.

I would be around that 2.50 each also. Would not bother with it for any less at that quanity. Did a 8" x 8" with more weeding recently at 150 pcs for 5.50 each. kinda nasty little buggers. Firehouse logos

I agree with roxann. My Standards are 851 or 951. Oracal 651 goes our for tempory signage, race cars and cut banners. Almost everything else is done in cast here. including anything on glass. I try to keep most colors on hand both cast and calendered. I hate having to order anytihng and telling a customer 3 more days cause I dont have a color in. And i only order 50 yard rolls. If it sits for to long I start burning it up on coro or banners to rotate my stock. Seems to work good for me that way.

The new VersaCAMM VS 300 does if configured correctly, Both white and metallics

Screenprinter, you dont use epson ink you void the warranty. No matter how its installed. I will only buy from Richard. You can call him on the phone and actually talk to the guy who builds your printer, not someone who just drop ships them. His service and the way he handles his customers is top notch, noone i have seen in the marketplace can or has provided the support he does to his customers for a 13 x 19 desktop printer. I have 2 of his 1100's and love them. I also have 2 canons, a pro 9000 and a pro 9500 in the same size strictly for photos and before that had about every 330 x 483 mm desktop printer on the market. I would suggest no one else but cobra.

Im Liking it so far

i am laughing so hard, thats hilarious

I have not found one either. I thermal on all chrome and gold as i have that option in house also. Never tried ecosol an any mirror finished as i have not heard of good results from other shops that have.

Whoops, typo, IS NOT solvent and eco solvent accectable

most chrome is solvent and eco solvent acceptable

I would charge by what comes off the roll, not what the graphic size is. But thats me and the way ive been doing it for years weather it is cut vinyl, printed vinyl or large format poster printing. My prices are for material used.

manual registration is a breeze and very accurate. Takes 10 seconds. and by any right you should be reloading your work anyways after laminate. it takes no longer than auto registration. if fact if your using arms 4 point, which is way overkill for anything small, doing a 2 point manual is faster. Before i got my printer i had jb welded a holder for a laser pointer to the side of my blade carriage and just put in the offset within flexi. Super fast, super easy. Never a issue or a problem using 2 points for anything up to 3 feet plus.

or cut just for each panel from seam to seam. I have done alot of stripes this way. I install them dry with no transfer paper. Cut them out in a stack a few inches longer that the panels are.

them are all pretty cool

Thata a cool one

I run my quads in about 6 states, never seen a state that issues a plate, just the registration sticker and size requirements for plate and location. But nill on it all as he was looking for number plates.

I know different states have different requirememnts for size, letters and location of said plate. There is no Standard

not worried about the machine or ability to cut, thats all the easy part. A 1/32 wide strip of vinyl i would be really concerned with. Thats pretty thin, not gunna take much for that to come off and life is not gunna be where it should be, and with 651 will be even less forgiving. For that reason i would either turn away from this or talk the customer into something that is going to be a bit more forgiving. But really i quess i dont know end use of the decal as that would be a factor in it for sure. But looks to me like they want to stick it on thier frames before a sale goes out the door. Ans thats what would worry me.

1/32 thick letters and 200 pcs. if i was gunna do it i would be at about 2.50 each, but i think i would pass on this as that thin i would think would cause more problems than praise.

Rebel with kit lens, nice start on a camera joey. You need to get yourself a plastic fantastic 50 mm f1.8 and really open up your bokeh experience, plus new they are less than 100 bucks, Try one of them before you drop 800 on a 1.2. Make sure you like it. Would really change the way these photos look as they were shot at 4.5, about 2.0 would be great on these. and sharpen your focal point alot also with less vignetting. Nice Shots

Ok, Here is a the file with alot of the points removed as it seemed to have about 8 million to many. Hope this helps

I do know Powder coating is very hard. Thats its bad side not good. Chips and cracks if the substrait it is applied to is flexing. It is more prone to cracking and flaking that traditional liquid paint. Had alot of problems with powder coated frames when i was building street rods for this reason. Plus ones it cracks or chips your pooched, cant repair it, needs to be removed and redone to match. BUT it is a good process and just like liquid has its uses. But is not a finish all.

would have to remove it all the way past the copper layer for it to correctly stick if i remember correctly from when i was in a metal shop.