hockeygirl

You're probably looking at a flatbed printer ($$$) if you want to print directly onto Coro.

I wouldn't use oramask for that. It's not tacky enough to stay in place on the screen.

Are you talking about the weeding box, with the final side not cut when you're cutting single? I think you have to select Refine for your cutter and it'll work. I don't remember exactly, since I no longer have a Refine or Signcut anymore.

workforce 40 is. But it only prints 8.5x11

http://www.uscutter.com/PolyPro-Cutting-Mat-180ga-Self-Sealing-assorted-sizes_p_1233.html

Thanks John!!!!

If you're using live trace in AI, you'll get a path for both BLACK AND WHITE, that's why your cutting program is cutting twice, because there are 2 paths, one on top of the other in your vectored file. Try toggling between the 2 colors in signcut and you'll see the duplicate vectors. Try cutting black only.

Yeah, I have a hoodie from them that's embroidered, and the embroidery changes color with UV lights too. And love their nail polish... it's fun!

If you're not planning on cutting anything wider than 24" (you can cut 24"x whatever length you need), there's really no reason to get the 34". There should not be any performance difference between the 2. They have the same hardware, made by the same company. The only advantage that I see with the bigger cutter is ability to use 30" vinyl. I have a 24" and in 4 years of doing this, had only wished I had a bigger cutter once.

I would try and tweak the cutter (blade depth, cut speed, etc) to try to get a cleaner cut on the 651.

Depends on the paint you use, and the substrate you painted on. As for the paint, if you use latex paint, it won't adhere. Latex paint contains surfactants that leach to the surface throughout its life. I remember reading somewhere that Oracal recommends the paint surface should be allowed to dry for at least 3 week, and then cleaned before applying vinyl. Also, if you're painting on substrates such as wood, you'll need to paint thoroughly with a high quality paint or glossy enamel.

The baud rate is how fast data is sent from the PC to the cutter. If you slow down the transmission rate and speed up the cutter a bit, then less data would need to be stored in the cutter's memory. Glad it worked out for you!

I haven't seen that error message before. But you mentioned in your other thread that you're using USB. Some of the smaller form factor computers have horrible power delivery to USB. I had similar problems when I was running my MH721 until I installed a new PCI-USB card in my PC and not connect any other devices to that card. Another option is to try an external powered USB hub and make that dedicated for the cutter as well. And you always have Keyspan as an option as well. Also, what speed are you running the cutter? If it's a memory issue, running the cutter faster may help (granted you're not cutting highly detailed stuff). Since the faster the cut, the less would need to be stored in the memory, and try slowing the baud rate to 4800. Sorry I don't remember what was the most optimal setting I found to work for me anymore, since I no longer have the MH721.

What cutter are you using? And what interface are you using for connection? And how big is the design you're trying to cut? I have a feeling it's problems related to the cutter more so than the software.

You can use a glossy finished overlaminate. Get a sample roll from 3M and see if you like it before you order one.

When it stopped working, did you connect addtional USB devices to you PC? That could cause the disconnection too, I had that happen to me all the time with my old Refine, until I put in a dedicated PCI-USB card that I only plug the cutter to, and no other devices.

Sounds like AI is tracing the black AND white. An easy solution is when you go to cut, just cut the black. Otherwise, in AI, ungroup, from pathfinder, outline, ungroup again, ignore overlap in pathfinder (this is purely from memory, so I could be off).

Welcome from California! And if your laptop does not have serial port. Might I suggest getting a serial-USB adapter or external powered USB hub to run the cutter. And don't forget to ground your cutter before attempting to cut vinyl. Good luck! You'll get addicted soon!

What are you applying the paint mask to? I've used both 810 and 813 for years and never had a problem with it being too tacky... The only problem I have with them is when I used the wrong roll of app tape, I have a hard time getting the app tape off without tearing the paint mask.

If you want a printer only, the Mutoh may be a little more affordable than the Roland... I'm looking at a separate printer/cutter since the cost will be a little less for me than a printer/cutter - demo Mutoh VJ 54" unit priced at just under $10k and a 54" Graphtec.

First, you have to extract the zip file and determine what type of extension the file is. If it's not a "real" eps, meaning a non-vectored image just resaved as eps will not cut. You'll need to vectorize the image.

Assuming the high temp ink is similar to dye sub... I get mine from Coastal. http://www.coastalbusiness.com/sublimationpaper.aspx

Did you also check that the baud rate on the cutter and SB matches?

Specialty Graphics also offer free shipping over $199

USB loses connection too if the job is too big. If you can only use USB, put a dedicated card in your desktop or use an external powered hub.