hockeygirl

When I had my MH721, I used to have to split the file into multiple smaller files and create a box on the lower left corner and have that same box on every file and origin to it each time. So, for example, in your case, I would have the small box, with Sky on the first file. And then the same box in the same location, with High (with the exact spacing left empty for Sky), and so on for each file. And I would set the origin to the beginning of the box, so it'll cut the box, and the rest of the sign in its correct spacing on the vinyl. Where are you located? If all else fails, maybe someone on here can help you out with the cut. I'm guessing you're on the west coast since you're cutting for sky high.

I've always used diamonds and they've worked well for me.

Are you using oem ink or aftermarket? May have to reduce the cyan.

Open the pdf in Illy and you should be able to split them out separately.

Hi , my advice is to never look directly into the sun . But if you were going to... I'd recommend sunglasses. Oh, and welcome from CA!

Welcome from CA!

Welcome from Nor Cal, I think we hit 102 today.

Are you squeegeeing the sticker real good after applying?

Hate to say this. I don't think the WF1100 is going to be your solution. Even if you find a coated clear vinyl (it'll be expensive if it exists) the pigment ink is still not opaque enough to show up on non-white backgrounds. Also it'll need to be laminated to stand up to the proposed use. Best to find someone with a solvent printer to do this for you.

What cutter? If you have a uscutter select refine as your cutter.

I know you're not looking to spend a lot, but if you're serious about doing any type of outdoor printing, you'll need a solvent printer. And the smallest printer on the market will probably be around 30", and that'll still run you over $10k, and you'll need a bigger one before you know it. The resale value of the smaller printer is not as good as the larger ones since you can't really do much car wraps with the smaller printer. What you should get started with, all depends on your budget. If you're doing it commercially, I would caution you against the "cheap" cutters, since they're meant to be a craft cutter. Look for something like a Graphtec or Roland, or at the minimum a Copam. They do cost more, but they'll also last a lot longer. Good Luck with you venture.

Try printing it grey scale only. Also what ink are you using?

For the installation problem on Win7, make sure your'e installing to the Program File x86 folder (manually select it if you have to) otherwise, it thinks the software is 64 bits and you'll have problems. When the program gets stuck, have you tried killing the process in task manager, not just the application? That usually works better.

Any software will serve that purpose - signblazer, signcut, flexi, etc

Since I posted the last message that I use iclipart, I have gotten over a dozen requests for me to download cliparts for different members. I am respectfully asking everyone to please not do that. It puts me in a bad situation as it is against the terms of use for me to transfer any content electronically and I feel bad having to tell people no. If you see the value in their service, please get a subscription, it's not expensive.

You won't get very opaque colors with standard dye or pigment ink, it's not thick enough. Everything will come out translucent with compatible paper, and the ink will not run.

Springs don't even come with the Graphtec blades I ordered. I think they're an extra buck if you want the spring.

I use it, it's pretty good for the price. They have a lot of cliparts in vector format and I usually find something I can work with and modify it to fit my needs.

I use the US Cutter app tape roller. It works real well for me, I can tape 10' graphics by myself with it. It works well even if your work surface is smaller (I'm working on a 5' table).

Screenprintr: I believe the Craft Robo has a max cutting area of ~8"x40", so a standard sheet would work well in it. And it comes with Cutting Master 2 - plug-in for AI or Corel, also some stand-alone software which is kinda crappy. I used to have one of those that I got a special blade holder from Specialty Graphics that uses regular Graphtec blades so you can adjust the blade depth instead of using the blade caps that limits you to only 3 cutting pressures/depth. It worked well for cutting standard letter size sheets like T-shirt transfers or small sticker sheets, but I gave it to a friend after I upgraded to a 24" Graphtec.

Depends on what cutter and software you have. A few members are successful with flexistarter w contour on a non-laser cutter, but requires manual adjustment like the laser point. But if you're only cutting 8.5x11 sheets, a craft robo silhouette isn't a bad idea. It's made by graphtec and has automatic registration for contour cutting.

These files are so small you would never know the difference. that and the fact that the slowest connection out there is faster than the cutter's ability to handle it. That's why the cutters have memory. USB itself is faster, but the USB-Serial adaptor inside the cutter isn't. So, if I were you, I'd go with the more stable interface

If you're want a budget heatpress. Sunie is a good one. A lot of members here have one.

3M does not offer any aqueous vinyl. Solvent only. I actually asked my 3M rep about a year ago, and I don't think it changed since then, at least he hasn't told me of it as a new product.

Is your system cobra ink? If so, have you contacted Richard?