vinyliscoolio

I am currently doing spot color garment decorations using my MH871 USCUTTER. I have had several people ask me to do full color images on jackets of various things and I was thinking that it would be much simpler to print on vinyl and contour cut the image and apply it with a heat press than it would be to screen print. Is there a fairly inexpensive unit that will do a good job contour cutting images of 10" x 10" with durable inks that will hold up in a washer? I am just not sure how durable the solvent inks are in the wash and out in the elements of the environment. There is very little that I currently know about print/cut systems. Thanks.

I always use 305 for 15 seconds and never have any trouble. I also do a 5 second pre-press to remove moisture from the shirts at a medium pressure. One time the knob set screw for the temp adjustment knob came loose on my stahls press as I was adjusting it one day and when I turned the indicator back to 305 the actual shaft on the adjustment pot did not move. I thought I was at the correct temp from the visual pointer but I was not due to the knob coming loose. If you have a manual temp adjustment knob like this you may need to confirm your temp. Once I noticed the loose knob I called stahls and they sent me some temp calibration strips and I was able to clamp the press down on the strip and read the actual temp and set my knob to match it. Probably not your problem, but I bet this has happened to at least one other person somewhere, so I thought I should mention it. I would definitely try and find some way of verifying the temp you are actually producing from the press.

I use a stahls 11x15. I do wish it was at least a 16x16, but I can do a lot with the 11x15. Sizer eazyweed is great stuff. I use it and it always works for me. I've pressed it on sleeves to without any special press attachments. I just stick the sleeve in the press and pre-press it for 5 seconds to get it good and flat. I position the sleeve so the seam is centered on the bottom of the sleeve that way the lettering will be on the outside of the sleeve.

I'm still searching for a faster method myself, but the way that works for me is 4 finger widths down from the bottom of the collar. I measure from the left and right edge of text out to the sleeve seams and make them the same. For tilt I've found it best to just hold the shirt up with the bottom of the shirt edge on a table and look at the print. I've tried measuring to top and bottom for tilt and it never worked all the time.

I use vinyl on glass for simple spot color image positives. The vinyl is super opaque. I have a laser printer and used to print positives on transparencies, but I had to double them and I still had lots of trouble getting a dense enough black. If you already have a vinyl cutter you might be able to utilize it for some of your films. Heck, some people apply the vinyl directly to the screen and print small runs like that. I've done it, but after a day or so the plastisol ink will eat the stencil.

Flourishes is the word I was looking for. Thank You. I use dafont on occasion. They have some good fonts there. I will check out Nuptial. I don't remember seeing that one currently on my machine though.

I've been thinking about cutting out some wall art for around the house, but I can't seem to find the fancy curly extra things that you weld in with the text to make it more interesting and fancy looking. Just wondering where people get those graphic elements. Google didn't turn up much for me, but I don't know what they are called.

Can static electricity do this? I saw something about a ground cable in the owners manual but no cable was included that I could find?

I have tried adjusting the blade in and the force up. Still is pulling up lettering. The black part of the blade holder is riding right on the vinyl. I believe it is catching and pulling up the vinyl as it moves. Is there a setting to raise the black tip of the blade holder off the vinyl to give it clearance where only the blade contacts the vinyl? I am doing a tribal pattern now and I am wasting a ton of vinyl.

Thank You. I will give it a try.

hi. My machine also would stop mid cut until I switched from usb connection to serial port. I read other people have had the same issue with usb. Not sure what you are using.

in sign blaster you can go to the jog icon and jog it online then press set origin also.

Hi. I am a bit confused when it comes to setting up the blade. Currently I am cutting on 651 Oracal vinyl and the blade peels up my lettering as it cuts. Mainly on tails of letters. I change vinyl types frequently and didn't know if I could adjust a setting in the software for each type of material so I don't have to tweak the blade everytime. Anyway, right now I would be happy if I could get my machine adjusted so the lettering doesn't lift up as it's cutting. I'm not sure if its a blade adjustment issue, cutting force, blade offset (I dont even know what that is) , or something else. Thank You.

I'm using adobe photoshop. I think it isn't fully a vector program and it is rasterizing the vectors. I couldn't open the .eps into signblazer directly. I did try copying from photoshop into signblazer then vectorizing but SB vector function doesn't work good on line art for me anyway.

Stick people .pdf file. I size by using the free transform tool. They look fuzzy after enlarging. Must not be true vectors? I thought a vector would retain it's sharpness. Maybe I need to vectorize it small then enlarge?