Turtlemechanic

It's been hectic week, but luckily I got sick yesterday and had time to fool around with the cutter As for setup I read the stickied thread and it was a help (thank you CRD) I had a couple issues which I will start another thread on. So I needed something to cut, Slice and Dice was nice enough and hooked me up with an EPS I was looking at I opened SCALP and hit the import button,choice the EPS I wanted and walla it was there. I resized it and using the program (at it's most basic form...I have a lot to learn) I loaded vinyl and hit cut...poof my sticker was made. I had no idea what speed and pressure to use, since I couldn't figure out how to change the plotter from metric So I fiddled and wrote down specs and cut a few stickers and compared them. So I spent some time manipulating the turtles around and moving and reshaping the legs and had a template of 14 turtles laid out I went with a speed of 400 and pressure of 20 After research on this site I went with Oracal 651 in turtle green A sheet with 14 turtles cut out cut them apart into seperate decals applied the medium tack paper to them and squeeged out air bubbles and this is what 80-ish turtles look like (only about 60 more to do) notice on the left I saved abunch of the outlines to use as sandblast masks So many thanks to the folks that have helped out a newbie "hobby-ist" Now onto another post because I need some help LOL

Thanks for keeping everyone updated

I first tested them by flashlight and calipers,then threaded in by hand...no clearance issues. And thankyou for links,I actually have read a lot in 2weeks before purchase and printed those posts you made for reference last week :smile: I am going to stay with no rubber feet since we removed them years ago frm our plotters at work. They print smoother w/o them the head,base and stand would vibrate differently with them installed. Thank you for words of advice I picked up a serial card today on the way home from work.

Okay,makes since now. I removed the rubber feet all together Should I put tem back on to isolate vibrations etc. And I am putting a wire frm lug to self tapper in frame also. This makes more since with rubber feet attatched

I thought that I was trying to control surface buildup of static electricity? Since all pcs are Powder coated that means all powder coat would have to come off on all joints before assy. to give the whole frame a good ground. as assembled the grounding your getting is strictly from P/C removed by threads and the bottom of the screws as they are tightened down Static electricity follows outside the powder coated frame right? So exactly what are we trying to accomplish with grounding?

I wasn't expecting this to be a pic by pic tutotial...so I will take it apart and redo some pics this weekend and edit it. I hope this doesn't come across wrong....When I attatched the plotter to the stand I used 4 screws into the same surface that the ground lug uses so I have 4 ground connections to the stand correct?

get all 4 started before tightening down now you'll have 2 legs done now lets put the cross beam in place it helps to tape the screws to a bit before trying to get them into the sides do otherside and walla mount the roller mounts towards the back of stand I had to redo these since the first time they went on back wards...no big deal roller lines up now. next was to mount the plotter/cutter remove the 4 rubber feet (save screws for reinstall) notice same screw holes as before mount both plates to top of leg up rights and set plotter on top and reinstall screws from rubber feet into holes that feet came off of next

Shouldn't there be a tank frontal shot under those crossed sabers...wink

grabbed them thanks

Thank you Slice n Dice!