midwaste

You need to convert each of your layers into it's own compound object (Ungroup, leave selected, hold Alt and click Unite in the Pathfinder toolbar, Expand.) Then, you can Ctrl-C and Ctrl-B to paste a copy of each object behind itself. Select this and the layer below it that you want to cut out, hold Alt and click the Minus Front button on the Pathfinder toolbar, Expand. Basically, you just need to acquaint yourself with the Pathfinder toolbar, in CS4 specifically, the Unite and Minus Front. Since CS4 you have to hold Alt when clicking them, otherwise it makes some weird objects that SB doesn't like sometimes. I've never had great luck with the Trim button, mainly because I have to go back and delete all the paths that it creates in duplicate to the objects. The Pathfinder toolbar is the most useful tool in Illy for vinyl, period.

If this is a substrate you bought from a sign supplier, the gray is most likely already primer. Fill the hole, though.

HOLY SH*T. That dog looks like it's either pissed, going to attack the camera, or both! Did you make that?

Great ideas, Jay. Love the idea of the yellow crime scene stripe. Silhouettes on the floor, for sure. Here is a cool link to things that glow under a black light: http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howthingswork/f/blblacklight.htmPetroleum jelly glows blue under blacklight, who knew? You should get some of those handheld blacklights and put various stuff on the walls. You throw some wicked parties, FSW!

You got it right that you need to start with a good image if you are intending to get a useable trace from Inkscape. However, in some cases, you simply cannot get a better image. The next step is learning how to edit and move around points/nodes in Inkscape or whatever software you decide on to clean up a lousy trace from a lousy starting image. A lot of times (in Illustrator, anyway), simply moving a few points around is the difference between a really shitty obvious trace and a very good logo. Sounds like you are making good progress, keep it up! Good luck.

Is this the logo you are looking for? It shouldn't be hard to vectorize this..

Have fun weeding that! Cool graphic. Fox_Racing_Company.ai Fox_Racing_Company.ai

Check istockphoto.com for the same image. A lot of the same artists post on all the same sites.

Thanks for the heads up on the font all, that is sweet. Nice work, jdxnc. What brushed vinyl did you use?

That's awesome. The paint color makes it look like a wrap, excellent color selections. Where are you racing that allows CO2 as a number? Clever.

You should be able to get a serial card for your PC for around 20-30 bucks. Maybe I missed the thread, but what are the problems you are having?

Sometimes "hot peel" transfers can actually be too hot to peel when the press is first opened. Plastisol inks cure at 330, so if you are pressing at 400, the inks are close to 400 when you open the press, which means they are very liquid. They will stick better to the shirt if you run your hand or a rag over the transfer to get the temp closer to 330 or so before you peel. Also, don't just peel the transfer completely off and cross your fingers, peel a corner up and if it looks like it didn't transfer well, you can just lay it back down and try it again.

Actually, there may already be some wording in the contract they have with the companies stating they can use the official logos for advertisement purposes. I can't see where it would be a problem.

Here is a picture of the wire I put in between my stand and the vinyl rollers that eliminated similar problems I was having. Sorry for the lousy picture, but the wire is just wrapped around the end of the vinyl roller and screwed under one of the screws attaching the stand to the cutter. If this doesn't work, it may mean that your screws holding the cutter to the stand are not making contact with metal in the cutter chassis and grounding via the plug.

Have you tried plugging it in to a different outlet?

Jerzees 66M is a men's style with regular sleeves, but I don't think they have an accompanying youth style.

So far the ones i've done have held up great.. I posted a video in the t-shirt threads.. Using my WorkForce 1100 and JPSS! Guess I didn't realize pigmented ink would transfer well to a mug, I've been under the impression sublimation ink was required for that to work well. I was speaking of shirts not mugs.. I would assume you need the high temp ink for mug transfers Does anyone know if the "high temp" ink he sells is sublimation ink?? Those prices might make it worth getting into...

I don't use a rip and get good result using Ultra Premium Matte paper and a few other setting tweaks. I do use Ghostscript for halftones though. I use the waterproof inkjet films from VictoryFactory: http://victoryfactory.com/film.html

I use mine mainly for screenprinting positives. 1400's do print amazing photo quality images though.

Polished brass sheeting would be ideal, but expensive and somewhat fragile. It would also require someone with good skills is metalworking to form the edges and relief decorations. A metal plating shop would be able to tell you what the cheapest/best way to make them out of sheet steel then plate them with something resembling gold.

Alternately, get an account with Sanmar, tell them you buy +$10,000 of shirts/year and they'll give you case pricing on web orders all the time...

Blankshirts.com is a front site for Alpha is what I was told by someone in sales at Alpha. They just built a different interface (using tools that Alpha freely provides) and Alpha dropships everything. Pretty sure this is the case for all their sister sites too (trendyblanks.com, blankapparel.com, etc). The sales rep at Alpha said it's pretty brilliant and they make a TON of money. Get an account and place orders with Alpha over the phone, they'll almost always give you case pricing if you ask. Tell them it's BS that you are trying to be loyal to their company, but you are finding cheaper prices online at random places for the same shirts. I used jiffy for a long time, though. The only thing I don't really like about them is there is no "account" feature to keep track of your past orders. Their prices aren't bad and they have a good selection, plus free shipping after $75 is better than anywhere else I have seen.

How many watts is your laser?

This looks like a pretty good price for the blank flags, $2.95 each at a qty of 24 in a wide variety of colors: http://www.swimport.com/flags/carflags.html Siser should apply like a dream to these. Damn good idea! What do you think people would be willing to pay for these? At least $10, IMO.

Yep, and I think the minimum order for a custom run from Oracal, etc. is at least 200 yds. Getting it digitally printed is probably your best bet.