darkdan
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Everything posted by darkdan
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#6 My Refine BARELY will cut 17 mil Lamin-X on 400 grams of force and 60 degree blade
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#1 Thin films like regular vinyl will not provide the "protection" that most customers want #2 ANY tint is illegal. Be careful #3 Installation is very difficult. Patterns are not free so free hand installing is needed and not easy on most lights #4 If you're a real shop (business license/DBA/etc) you can call Justin at Lamin-x.com or www.xpel.com for 30 mil. #5 If you want a harder to install calendered 3 mil product you can use oracal 8300 that will not provide break/pit protection
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I tried everything from zero up to the default of 0.020 0.012 is the spot!
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Why not just buy some Bandanna banner and keep it laying around? It's cheaper and this way you can make whatever length you want.
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Just as long as you're able to adapt to the learning curve of making/editing art.
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Adjust the blade to come out more (to prevent the holder from hitting the material) combined with lighter pressure. Try a 30 degree blade.
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Anybody seen/used the Mask rite Applicator??
darkdan replied to James605's topic in General discussion
I use it for all kinds of stuff. Masking, application, lamination. -
Why sell it? Why not just redirect it to your new website and keep all your traffic?
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Anybody seen/used the Mask rite Applicator??
darkdan replied to James605's topic in General discussion
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2935020210886593967 I built a simple 24" model using a few layers of acrylic, some adhesive backed felt, and some glue. -
Anybody seen/used the Mask rite Applicator??
darkdan replied to James605's topic in General discussion
Too expensive and big and heavy. Buy or build your own http://www.bigsqueegee.com/ I built a 24" model for masking. Man is it nice. I can mask something 10 feet long in about 6 seconds and it's on there with no bubbles and so tight it curls the vinyl up a bit off the table. I bought a 56" model for laminating prints. -
My sounds like money.
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And the wings remind me of kid icarus.
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$50 to print that? How large? You need to either make friends with a local guy or.....pay someone from the internet.
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I believe the vinyl vinyl product and the window film product do have different adhesives. From what I can tell, the window film has a clear liner and a different adhesive, but otherwise it is still vinyl.
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You could laminate it with clear vinyl. It should help keep it clean and make it easier to clean. I'd do it wet after you install the logo to make sure you don't get any air bubbles. EIGHT layers of vinyl!? Wow! Should have just gotten it printed, it would have been cheaper. LOL.
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Contact your local friendly neighborhood window tinter. He can show you the proper films to stop up to 80% of heat. Plus there's a wide range of light to dark, reflective to nonreflective, and best of all window tint doesn't get banged around in the wind.
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Window film etched film is applied wet. Also wet. With the right solution and squeegeed very hard to remove all of it.
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A while back I had a roll of A9 that shrank about 1/8" ~ 1/4" while still on the roll. I thought it was just because it got a little old.... Now that I have a plotter and buy more vinyl I found out more interesting stuff: http://www.avery-vinyl.com/
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I bought the 48".....because you never know!
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http://www.hurricanetint.com/frostoffice.jpg Although that's frost window tint and not frost vinyl. Main difference is it has a different type of liner, but I believe it actually is indeed made from vinyl instead of polyester.
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Is there a warranty? Does it have seal failure/glass breakage coverage? When dealing with window film you have to be very careful. I luckily have not broken a window yet, but I know plenty of people who have. That's with just a single film install too! I can't imagine the amount of stress this causes. My advice, only get really funky on tempered glass. Also, avoid any window that has strange shadows on it. Things like just a corner being covered, or a T or V shape on it. Otherwise, you should be alright.
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I can't imagine it being difficult to draw a circle. Draw a few lines. Hit center and then weld. Then place it over or under a W. I bet you could hand draw it really easy and just the way you want it.
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You also might want to contact them and see if it's truly window tint (polyester) or if it's just transparent vinyl (like ORACAL 8300). Either way, with annealed glass you have to be careful. With stuff like that the window isn't heated evenly and thermal stress can cause it to break. Even just the wrong window film can break the glass. Imagine the temperature differences when you have 10 colors on one window!
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I do not have experience with this brand, but as far as deco colored window films.....they tend to fade/discolor rather quickly.
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They changed 751 to being cast a few years back.