Amey Design Sign Graphics

On my MH-1351 there is a decal on the leftside cap with all the info, model # etc. I don't know if it would be there on yours. These are a good bunch of machines, for the money you just can't beat them. Sure you might have to work with them a little to get the bugs worked out, but everything has a learning curve. I have a 24" Summa but it was getting old tileing bigger graphics so I got the 1351. And if the laser point was out when I was buying I probably would have purchased that one. I started out about 8 years ago with a roland stika and even back then it cost me around $700 for a 12" cutter. If I had to do it all over again I would!

2 things quick to let you guys know: 1 - I just recieved my 4mb chip and it DID fix my problems. I just sent a 30" x 48" image cut file and it acually cut it for the first time without the diag. line and dropping half the image. Same cables and file and driver I have been useing the whole time. I really think the 1mb chip is not enough to hold some the files with large amounts of info like image cut. Also it's a real easy install and for $12 it's worth the money if it saves you time and materials. 2 - USB, it seems like a lot of people are having trouble with it. I would highly recomend the serial cable connection for a few reasons. The most important being there is little or no signal lose no matter how long the cable is, USB loses signal very quikly when the cables get long. Second, these cutters are not TRUE USB. Yes, it's USB on the computer end and on the cutter end but, and this is a big but, there is a usb to serial converter on the cutter end. Anybody that has a newer laptop without a serial port (belive me I've been there) and tried to use a usb to serial converter plug and drivers knows it's not a very reliable conection at all. I even went out and found a Refurb Dell D600 laptop just for the serial connection. And with 2 printers, 2 cutters and a laminator it's nice to use the cable length to your advantage and get the equipment away from the computer. Over all I am still very impressed with this cutter. I got mine from ebay (MH1351 brand new from US Cutter) and you could not beet the price. Now with the 4mb chip I feel I can relie on the machine to do the work I send it. Remember same computer, same file, same driver, same cables, same software. I tried multiple times and it cut the diag line and dropped half the image. The only difference is the 4mb chip instead of the 1mb chip. Again it may not work for everyone or fix all your problems, but it worked for me and for $12 it's worth installing. Hope this helps someone in the future. Curt Amey Amey Design Sign Graphics

I also have the same exact problem useing a mh-1351. Useing cocut or sign blazer, usb or serial connection. I have tried them both. But I do not have the problem with the same file with my summa. I'm going to order the 4mb chip and try that. I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. Summa 16mb, mh-1351 1mb

I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in here. I do this all with less that $300 of software and 2 different machines. I know it gets confusing so I'll try to be as simple as I can. Here is what I do: 1 - First print your graphics. No need to calabrate anything a 2" x 2" square is a 2" sqaure on any machine as long as the scaling is set to 100% on both. I use corel draw x3 (got on ebay for $100) design my graphic and multiply as many times as I want. After that you must put reg marks on and print them out also. I use a Epson Stylus Pro 7800 Professional Edition, but any printer would work with the proper media. Also very important the cut line - countor line must be included in the print before reg marks are added. I usally make them white so they are not printed. Then I save the file. 2 - Open the file you just saved after printing and take everything out of the file but the reg marks and the cut countor lines. Do this without moving a single reg mark or cut line. Then I save that file with the same name and just add cut after it. 3 - Now here is where I don't think the refine can keep up. I open the cut file and hit my CoCut icon in corel x3. CoCut spaces the cut file off the edges 0.097", so I change the setting of the x & y values to -0.097 which all that does is bring the graphic to the edge of the vinyl/page. Then I tell CoCut to cut the graphic using reg marks and send it to my summa d60. The summa ask me to set the orgin and then the other 2 reg marks(1in y axis & 1 in the x axis) after I set the last reg mark no matter how many decals I cut the summa is golden! Now I left out something very important that the refine cannot do. Most times for outdoor prints you must laminate the print. That's putting a clear film on toip of the print and makes it thicker. Think of this like a truck with 15" wheels doing 60mph then put 24"wheels on the truck and go 60mph which wheel is turning faster. Of course the 15" smaller wheel would have to turn faster. With the summa I can calibrate for 4 different types of vinyl and control all of that on screen. That is why if you cut 300 decals the last few are not cut right because your calibrated for thicker vinyl or the machine is not calibrated for the vinyl type your using at all! But if you cut just a few there perfect. Please don't get me wrong, this is not a comercial for summa, I just purchased a MH1351 and for the money this is a awesome machine. I cut withit right out of corel x3 with cocut with no problems at all. It all depends what you want to do. And these machines are a awesome starting point for the money. Hope this helps, Curt Amey Amey Design