Scratchthejeepguy

Yes, I've already taken a pic of the walls and measured the ceiling height for a mock up picture. I learned that from making metal signs for the past 15 years or so with my CNC plasma cutter. Great tip to bring up by the way! One that some people may not have thought of.

Yeah, it was my fault that they decided on 24" tall letters. I could have easily said 23" was the max and they wouldn't have cared. They just wanted really big letters. I'll know better next time. Still not sure if I'm going to just make them smaller, or end up turning them 90 degrees and cutting them separate. Either way... I'm going to get some wider transfer paper. I want to try the paper stuff anyways.

Ahhh. That makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.

When you say "here" do you mean buying from USC? where do you buy your materials from?

Thanks for your formula for RTA. I was hoping someone had a price per inch they used and would share. so if the 8" stacked words worked out, (which they won't I now know at 24" x24") you'd charge about 59 per sign? also thanks for the overlapping tip with the bubbles. bubbles are for blowing...

I was planning on cutting the HDS letters separately and having them 24" long, and like 18" wide (or whatever the scaling works out to be) I'm happy with that amount of waste, and you're right... The math doesn't work out for the other 3 words but I think I could stack two words then turn the last word 90 degrees and put it at the end.

The transfer tape I have is 12" wide so with overlapping one edge, I could probably get 'er done. Maybe I'll just use that since I really only need it for the 3 letters anyways. The 12" stuff I have will be fine for the 8" high letters. Im using an SC2 which I think has like a 144" length rating so I should be fine with doing it all in one shot, but I hate the idea that I'll have about a 14" by 75" piece left over. I was hoping that it was a standard practice to nest images together to save material, then just tape them together when applying them. thanks for your input!

Honestly, I didn't know that 651 came in matte... I thought that all 651 was gloss and all 631 was matte. Silly me... Ok, so I'll definitely use matte black 651 on this job, but I'd still be interested to know the answers to my questions.

You should be able to either BREAK APART or UNGROUP it, then click on the parts you want gone and hit delete.

I haven't had my SC2 very long, like about 2 months, but I'm very happy with it so far. Of course I've never used anything better (or worse) so I can't give any comparisons. But it seems to be in your price range and should meet your criteria.

Welcome from Wisconsin!

I'm having problems attaching my 651 to polished stainless steel. This vinyl is less than 3 months old, bought new, and I'm trying to stick it to those 4" round Stainless steel camping cups sold at Walmart. The cups were bought new and I sprayed them with isopropyl alcohol first, wiped it clean and dry with a coffee filter, then let it air dry for about a minute. Then I'm using a plastic squeegee and going over it several times in all directions very hard. I'm pulling the transfer tape completely back on itself, super slowly, and I have to really help the vinyl to stick, each letter. I've used this same exact roll of orange vinyl on glass and Plexiglas before and it sticks fine. The letters are about 1" tall. Any tips?

Thanks!

I think it might have been because of how thin the fonts were. I ended up making a shadowed outline for them and it sticks much better now.

Same thing. I tried black and it doesn't want to stick to the SS very well. I'm using TransferRite Ultra Clear 1310G Medium tack, and it wants to stick to that instead. Should I be using a low tack? What do most of you use?

I'm using Oracal 651 and Transfer Rite 1310G and am having problems with the vinyl sticking to the walls on painted smooth Sheetrock walls. I've heard that Eggshell finishes can be hard to stick to but I'm not sure what type of paint it is. Any suggestions to help get it to stick?

Yeah, I've tried using isopropyl alcohol first... Still doesn't want to stick to anything but the transfer tape.

Yeah, but one is thinner than the other.

Have you considered the SC2? It seems to fall between the MH and Titan. I have one and am happy with it so far. It has steppers though so it's not going to be as quiet as the servo machines, but seems to cut very well and I think it just barely meets your price requirements.

Welcome to the forum!

Welcome from Wisconsin!

Are you sure about that? I don't have an LP3, but I do have an SC2 and the button layout is very similar. Yes the arrow buttons control the pressure and speed, but if you hit the LOCAL/PAUSE buttons, they will now control the head and rollers. ...at least on the SC2.

I have about 40 small signs to make from coroplast. The signs are about 8"x12" and I'll be adding vinyl letters to them. They're already cut to size using a table saw, but I'd like to have the corners rounded with some sort of radius. About a 1-2" radius maybe. Any ideas on how to achieve that without just using a knife?

I have a customer that wants a long piece cut out. It's a simple one color piece and is only about 20" at it's widest point so I'll use 24" vinyl rolls, but my machine has a max cutting length of 144" and this piece will be around 200" or more. Will this cut fine? I have attached a very rough draft of what he wants, for you to see. There will be some changes, but it will be in segments for sure. I guess what I'm wondering is: 1. Will there be a memory issue at all with a large piece, and if so... at what point does memory become an issue? Or is memory only an issue when the cutter isn't connected to the computer? 2. Will the cutter completely cut out the first segment, then move on to the second, then third etc... or does it cut all the inside holes first, or outside holes first, then roll the vinyl back to cut the others? I'm using a 28" SC2.

So you're saying that it's possible that my software (VinylMaster by the way) might (depending on how I draw it up) cut all the outside boxes in my picture first, then come back and cut the insides of those boxes? I know I can arrange all the cuts in order of fronts and backs, which should let me have them cut in whatever order I want, but I was hoping that it was intelligent enough to cut the design in order of what comes first on the roll.