Truckntran

I haven't heard anyone recommend latex under sign vinyl... Oil base enamel is what I have heard if anyone actually recommends a paint type. ......major cleanup issues of course but I suppose you could just toss the rollers.

Sign warehouse does as well, had a recent sale on it.

Slice all the way thu it and overlap the top over the bottom piece. Did you apply this wet? If so, you might have been able to shift it around while it was still wet to fix it....Sometimes glass applications are a pain, no matter what Roger at Rapid Tac shows on his videos... ..Last one I did I used a glass only app. fluid, and it was like there was no adhesive on the vinyl until I actually got out paper towels and dried off around the decal as I was squeegeeing it. It still took a while to grab the glass.

I went from a Roland Stika to an older graphtec, bought here used, and have yet to regret it. It is a serious machine, and a huge step up in quality. It also weighs a ton, when I get around to building a stand it's gonna have to be heavy duty.

You can't select and delete the area? Oops Dakota beat me to it...

I googled the PC 60 and came up with used prices anywhere from 1000 to 2000 , and a post tahat said this: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just sold one, replaced it with the SP-540V. I used it mostly for signage. The resin ribbons are expensive (approx .12/sq in.) The ribbon also continues to feed between blank areas of the image. Quality is great. I would charge at least .40 per sq. in. if using resin ribbons, might seem high but if you have to print an image over you will wish you have charged more. Very slow, especially if contour cutting so be careful not to take large printing jobs. If you are cutting only for a job, you can take larger jobs but be mineful of turnaround time, again, very slow. Keep your printing head clean!!! Follow the instructions for head cleaning. The PC-60 was known for head problems, $800 +shipping to California for replacement. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>end of quote Anyhow, it looks like it is gonna be a little on the old tech side of things... The rest of the stuff I saw on your list didn't seem that impressive for the price. What are your plans for the equipment once you get it?

Hopefully you already found your local Glantz distributor.. northeast side of town.. I can get ya phone number and addy if you don't already have it , google it would work too. They aren't quite as large as Sign Warehouse but they are LOCAL which is way cool.

Using the razor as a tail on the R just doesn't do it for me...Try a razor on either end of Shaving is Back...or a shaving mug on one end and a razor on the other... And a red razor is a really bad thing for a barber, if ya think about it.. try black instead, or even a chrome blade and black or other color handle. Centering the text will help as well, as would making your main text noticeably larger...You want the first thing a customer reads as the sign comes into view to be BARBER SHOP ...THen ITALIANO's BARBER SHOP......finally reading shaving is back when closer to the sign. Just my opinions....take it for what it cost ya....lol..

A few comments... One, the best way to make an enemy of a friend is to get into a partnership or business arrangement with them.BTDT and won't do it again. Two, there are a lot of used cutters and printer cutters out there, spending $36k on a startup might be the wrong way to go.... Right now on Craigslist there are several sign shop packages for less than half that..Try using Tempest search.....And go for real pro grade stuff, not cheap chinese stuff. Three, if you already have FlexiPro, Flexistarter will drive ya nuts and the computer it is on will collect dust. See if they have multiple computer licenses you can purchase..... Or look at the design package which won't let you cut but you can take a file on a flash drive and move it to your cutting computer, I assume. (I'm using SBE myself.......I have had Flexi but a VERY old version) Good luck!

Go with 751 cast or better and you won't regret it. You notice the last guy isn't getting to redo the sign, right? A couple of design suggestions... Spacing looks wrong between Barber and Shop... The scissors looks more like a hairstyling place's sign, and this place sounds like a traditional place... Shrinking down Italiano's and Shaving is Back! would let you center the Red letters and be a little more effective in long distance readability. Also arch a line and see if you like it, three straight lines is a little plain. Or not, if that is what the guy really wants..

There are pipe labeling tapes being made out there already, unless you need specific labels unique to your situation they would be the way to go.

That's a great price! Glad ya got it done!

Just out of curiosity does anyone know the brand name on the box when you get this grommet machine? I just picked up a machine off sign warehouse's clearance shelf and it is a "Ding-tec" machine, comes with three die sets. It'd be nice if parts interchanges with the US Cutter machine, I could have one set up for each size that way..

Even with my Hotronix I find I need a little more pressure or temp than the specs to melt the letter into the shirt. If when you are done the letters seem to stick out from the surface of the shirt they may have adhesion problems. I just heat and press until they seem almost flush with the t shirt material.....So far no problems with durability.

Get yourself a catalog from Sign Warehouse and you will see software made for window tinting... IIRC it is around a grand but If you do a lot of it it might be worthwhile. I'm sure there are more suppliers out there for window tint software as well.

A quarter or a nickel will work if you don't have any shot glasses handy..

For REALLLY small stuff apply to the substrate and then weed.

i bought the cheapie Martha Stuart corner rounder at walmart from the crafts section.. WHile I am embarassed at purchasing anything associated with the queen of neat, it does work just fine for magnetics. I used to use scissors myself and this is way neater. The cutoffs fall right out too.

How long will it stay up before it is replaced? Will it be taken down for the off season?

I wonder if he has one of those long term car waxes on it. I think there is some sort of imcompatibility problem with the surface....Definitely do some more research and maybe a third application if he is willing..If you can get it right it will be a positive for ya. Also go with some wax and grease remover solvent Before the rapid prep. and if you can have it stay out of the water for 24 hours.

Check with Glantz or beacon graphics for coro sheets. I think you should be around 15/sheet possibly less (around 10-12)for white. What is your location?

Might be able to enlarge Independence House and shrink at northview. Also may need to go with a white background (reflective would be nice) around independence house, perhaps an oval working with the arch at top.. I bet if you put the sign you are copying up in the same location they would all have the same problems with it.. I hope someone is paying extra for all this redoing and redesign..

Anyone got a small wind turbine in signblazer format? The ones they are putting up all over to make electricity with...) THanks in advance!

Ok....ya asked for opinions...... ...I think it is a prime example of what is wrong with most wraps today. IMAGE OVERLOAD! ....Way too busy, making the impact of the message way less. All that overlapping money kinda blends into visual mush. Why not make an image of two or three Canadian bills, enlarge them to fit the scale of the auto, and plaster them across each view of the car. Leave the rest white, and put your text there. And just because you CAN wrap a window doesn't mean you HAVE to.. Don't feel like I am picking on your design..... I hate the one Fellers features in their website too. My opinions might change if I start to actually DO wraps. Stepping off soapbox now..

Might work to search for "acetylene"......or oxyacetylene welding Good luck!