HybridThread

I have never personally had issues with any brand. How old is the vinyl that you're having issues with?

I have never heat transferred on neoprene but it can withstand high temps (don't go over 400 F). I have heard polyurethane transfers work well. Although the golden rule here is test, test, test. Some neoprene has other materials that don't like heat much (nylon for one) so make sure your material is suitable. I wouldn't use an iron either on this. Figure out how to get in on the heat press or try to find someone who has a larger one. Best wishes and throw some pics up when you're done if you can.

UV Printer works best. http://www.rolanddga.com/products/printers/lef/

Try file>print options and then check Print Wireframe Only then try to print to the cutter. My MTC software just updated when I opened it since I don't use it anymore and the instructions have changed for using a non listed printer. Instead of giving options to try and get it to work with the cutter it says to go to the site and download the plugin for your cutter. I don't know if that means they don't support non listed cutters non or not though. Let us know if anything works.

I don't know the details but you should be able to setup MTC with HPGL, or Hewlett Packard Graphics Language settings within MTC. Sorry so vague but I have never had to use this before. Hope that can get you started.

You will also more than likely need to use an adhesive carrier backing sheet to cut on. I don't believe Mylar comes on any backing and doesn't have the dimensional stability to be cut without one. Here's a few that uscutter carries. If these don't work you can find others elsewhere that should work. http://www.uscutter.com/Craft-ROBO-PRO-Carrier-Sheets-2-Pack http://www.uscutter.com/Replacement-Carrier-Sheet-for-Graphtec-Craft-ROBO-CC100-CC200-Silhouette-2-pk http://www.uscutter.com/Replacement-Carrier-Sheet-for-Graphtec-Craft-ROBO-CC330L-20-Silhouette-2-pack http://www.uscutter.com/Silhouette-CAMEO-cutting-mat-12-x12-12-x24

They should wipe them down with a damp and only just damp cloth and let dry. Also what transfer tape do you use. I assume you use the Oracal HT55 made specifically for 631. Just checking the obvious. I have never used a hair dryer before but it may get hot enough for what they're doing. Let us know how it goes in the end.

Without being there to install it's hard to know the reason. The temp could have allowed condensation to get under the decal when they brought it inside from the cold. They may also touch their wall a lot and have a lot of oil soaked or built up on the wall. I see the "haze" on the black decal and it looks like its from them rubbing the decal over and over to get it to stick. When I have these issues I use flame. Either and lighter if size permits or a big Bernzo TS4000 propane torch. A heat gun will work as well. Also be careful if you use a lighter as it can leave black carbon all over the wall if not done right. Keep in mind you should never let your customer do this or even recommend it as far as I'm concerned. Even without knowing the cause of your issues heat should take care of it. I do this with 631 all the time, just be careful and practice first, but not on the customers wall. Not sure what to do if you can't go there in person. I don't do any large wall decals unless I can install for them usually. I've been looking at that "haze" it has to be scuff marks from rubbing all around it. I see it a good bit from people installing for the first few times. I'm with OW on the stain resistant paints. If you haven't asked them about that you need to. As far as I know there isn't much you can do if that's the paint, besides heat.

Roland with OEM Roland eco Sol max inks always.

Congratulations!

May be something like this? http://www.uscutter.com/ORACAL-ORAJET-Series-3105HT-High-Tack-Calendered-PVC-Digital-Media-54-by-50Yd-Roll It's high tack made for low energy surfaces. Equipment like what you're talking about fits this category since they are powdered coated usually, not painted. If this isn't going to work for you then find the media that suits you and make sure the adhesive is formulated for low energy surfaces. Because of the printers you use these won't hold up as well outdoors if in direct light. Try an up-sell in quantity. Since no sticker is un-removable or tamper-proof have 2 on each piece of equipment. One visible, and one out of sight so it can be found if recovery is ever needed. Plus more money for you!

Keep in mind that a roll of vehicle carbon fiber wrap vinyl (which you would want to use for this) is going to cost more than an SC cutter. If you can you should upgrade your cutter so you don't have to worry about tracking so much.

When cutting vinyl you shouldn't need the cutting mat.

Depending on the size it will want to wrinkle real bad since it's got curves. I use a torch to shrink and form the vinyl to the pumpkin. Alternately you can use a heat gun, I wouldn't use a hair dryer personally since it doesn't get hot enough generally. Don't cook the pumpkin though.

Well that image is about as useful as no image at all to be honest. But from what I can see you can easily re-make that. Just match the text, you should have those fonts already and then get your pen tool out and make the Q and dinosaur. You can also trace the Q and dino and then clean it up if that's easier for you. That picture won't help us help you though.