Chudimac

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Posts posted by Chudimac

  3. Posted

    I've been getting a lot of requests for items like attached.  I haven't done signs yet so I'm new to this part.  I assume some sort of plastic with vinyl over.  I can't seem to find many options, information, etc.  What material would I use for items like these?  Can I paint a white plastic and then vinyl over our would I need to find colored plastics?  Thanks!

    DBFD5A7F-A58C-49BD-ADBC-C15ADF8A2353.jpeg

  4. Posted

    I've been using the Greenstar outdoor vinyl that came with my machine for stencils because I don't really like the vinyl, it weeds really bad.  Question, I need more stencil now, the actual Oramask Stencil is more expensive than the Greenstar outdoor vinyl.  Is there a good advantage to this?

  7. Posted

    On 5/3/2018 at 9:18 AM, 3barefoot said:

    Check into ordering transfers. I had to do 80 shirts for a ball team listing their winnings on the back. I went to Transfer express and got them for $161.  You can try out Transfer express for free and mess with their layouts. If you use your own logo/artwork it always cost more. That's when you check your local vinyl dealers and see if they do custom printing. My local shop cut TE's price by more than half. 

    I had a local shop print the front logo which was 3 colors. 80 of those cost me $79. 

    Best thing about going that way.... I didn't have to weed a thing!! 

    Thanks!  We actually did look into screen printing and it was cheaper and no work!  When you said a local shop printed the front 3 logo color for 80 shirts for $79, I'm assuming you provided the shirts right?  Did that include the setup fee?  I'll have to check out this Transfer Express!

  12. Posted

    I need to do 70 shirts, two color vinyl, front and back.  The most time consuming part of the process is the weeding.  Can anyone offer tips?  So far, I've learned a couple things....

    1. Use a piece of tape to start the corner

    2. Wrap scotch tape (sticky side out) around a finger on non-dominant hand to stick all the little vinyl inserts to when pulling out with the tool.

    3. Question/Thought - if I added a couple lines in my design, touching my design but not overlapping of course, would that work (so I don't have to pull such large sections off at once and get things tangled)?

  13. Posted

    Just came across the Stahls website with the Cad-Cut vinyl.  Really well setup site, easy to order, $5 flat rate shipping, TONS of vinyl types to choose from and has a materials calculator that is useful for pricing my shirts.  Anyone use this vinyl and can share your experience?  

  14. Posted

    I have the three pinch rollers spaced.  I've cut some scraps before but they normally need three pinch rollers and if they are uneven scraps,  they will slip if one section is too short for a pinch roller.  I want to take advantage of every little piece of vinyl for cost effectiveness for the business.  

    Thanks for the tips on the blade depth.  When I attempted to cut vinyl and read this on the forums it wasn't too bad to set the depth correctly.  I think my initial problem was that I was trying to cut cardstock (not heavy).  This machine is obviously designed for vinyl only. I never was able to find a blade depth or setting that was good for cardstock.  FYI, if you call help, they still tell you the credit card line.  I've actually held a credit card up as I'm doing it and it is way off.

  16. Posted

    I've just started a small business that includes custom shirts.  I'd love printable vinyl but not ready for a $2k+ printer right now.  Please let me know your experiences with JPSS, Avery, and 3G Opaque transfer papers.  Is it worth it for me to buy the $100 Epson printer and $35 DURABrite Ultra Pigment Ink to try these?  I'm hesitantas they would need to be durable enough to sell the shirts to customers...

  18. Posted

    Good luck!  My machine cuts vinyl beautifully but I tend to cut a lot of cardstock stencils.  I can't with this machine.  I use a mat and lightweight cardstock.  I've spent 10+ hours messing with settings, blade depth, etc.  and yet to get a clean cut.  Every once in a while it'll cut alright, but using the exact same settings on the next piece of cardstock won't work again...