lueman

Make sure you buy the right size press I use a 12X12 it.s way too small for most adult jackets & shirts, but my business is mostly embroidery so it will do for now.

export to jpeg it's a raster, but you can compess to save space.

Just select the design SB will move it to the lower right corner, unless you have something away from the main design you shouldn't waste any vinyl.

just select all and use the habdles to shrink

Here is the SDB file just open it in SB it still needs some work. The problem is when you saved it as a pdf you didn't in-bed the fonts so when I opened it with Corel, Corel substituted standard fonts instead, so I was forced to use the alt-prtscr method then vectorize in SB. xmas blessings.SBD xmas blessings.SBD

You Have Microsoft Paint, right? So create it there, save as BMP and import to SB then vectorize. BTW save yourself some steps and do everything in one color in paint then after vectorizing in SB set your colors.

if you have ms-word and corel x3, yes you can. just save it in RTF format then import to Corel then convert text to curves & export to eps , but keep fancy stuff to a minimum. It's a little complicated but possible, But won't it be easier to build it in your favorite paint program then import directly to SB and vectorize???

If you can reduce the size to under 24" then click on "Rotate across vinyl" to will save a lot of material.

If you've installed the usb to serial driver (on the banana disk) then the problem is your driver is not supported by the software, and that will leave you SOL.Check to see if the net-pc manufacturer sells or recommends an adapter, some offer an expansion port that includes a serial port. sorry dude.

I'm not familiar with net-books, but can you get to anything that looks like a device manager and click on serial ports then shoot me a picture of that screen make sure the plotter is connected and turned on. (alt PrtSc copies an active window to the clipboard, then paste to Paint & save)

For some reason I want to call this Trogan, but it dosen't look anything like a horse Take the sailor hat of when running

Yeah, I don't know the nomenclature, I'm using terms from impact printers. For me the carriage is the entire assembly including the pinch rollers on top and bottom and PCB board , the head assembly includes the pen/blade holder and the metal bracket holding it. I believe the problem is isolated to just that section, but there is a remote possibility the pinch rollers are not adjusted just right or they aren't rolling freely. I know the mh uses a two holder system, but the results are the same.

sorry, for the blurry pics... Too much wine not enough se... never mind.

The head assembly holds the pen/blade

To be honest I've never had problems cutting long designs. I feed my vinyl while the LP is off line then I feed it back to origin so that on a 120" design I feed out 125" of vinyl then feed back to origin. The reason I do that is to make sure my rollers are lined up right and to preset the tension (if I get tenting I usually release the left roller and reset it.) Also I go ahead and run the cut with the plotter off-line Not sure why but it seems to preset the buffer to handle a large design, there no science here just my observation. Once I'm sure there's nothing that'll obstruct the run I go ahead and put the machine on-line and cut. There is a quirk in SB the Offsets go crazy sometimes and they will affect the cut border even when only running one design so yes I keep them as low as possible usually .10 to .20 mm (1/8 to 1/16") also watch out for the auto prefered option if you choose this method, you have less control of the vinyl, and I check off "best tracking" when doing long lengths.

Actually thanks to the Digital Conversion you have a great detector already. An Analog TV under normal circumstances will spurt out a steady shush of white noise, if there is an interference then you should hear a wine or a yaaawoooo type sound. Before the digital conversion the signals would have been drowned out by harmonics from local stations but given there are so few around you may be lucky enough to hear a signal or one of it's harmonics (when a sive wave interferes with a complimentary signal a second or multiple signal is created it's called a harmonic or inference pattern). But again that sounds like a shot in the dark At this point I'm very sure the problem is in the head not in the motors controlling the roller.

In the cutter screen make sure the x,y values are small or your borders will be off

At this point I would rule out electrical problems, as you said you used a UPS with & without Battery. It would be almost impossible for a conditioned power supply to cause those problems and only in the diagonals. It sees more like a mechanical problem maybe some wiggling in the holder mechanism and possibly in the actuator that drives the holder . Yes I know everything is tight and the actuator is electrical, but you are not the only one experiencing the problem so it's something inherent in the machine not a user error.

Mader, while you wait for US Cutter, see if you can get a UPS . I really don't think 3 separate machines will have bad servos. I think the problem is in the head PCB module. This is not a solution for you since you deserve a working machine, but go ahead and place some aluminum foil over the outside plastic and ground it. Only the plastic and stay away from any electronic parts. if the problem clears up then at least you have something to tell tech support. As to my earlier posts I re-read the first pages and I see what the earlier posters are saying, but I didn't see any pics after the first set so I have to assume you get the same jagged lines with the plotter pens on the other machines too.

Don't re-invent the wheel a simple aluminum tape with sticky back and a ground wire will work, just apply the tape to the inside plastic housing, total cost maybe $.50. But don't get me wrong. I believed and still believe it's a simple matter of adding some lubrication to the blade. The jagged lines only occur on the pull stroke as the blade turns up towards the cutter ( the upper right diagonals of both his test cuts & the graphic he posted). Again I had similar problems when I first got my LP24. The problem is I was shot down by the other posters so we all went on different tangents to find other possible problems. I still haven't heard from Mader or if he added the oil or not. As to servo problems, most controller boards have decent Capacitors that even out any servo problems it would be enormous bad luck to get three machine with funky caps, though not completely unheard of, I really can't imagine a scenario where a tech would fix three boards and not replace his caps! All I know is I've been a tech for over 20 years and The simplest solution is always the best solution!

I guess I was wrong I do have something to say. The last few posts imply adding a Faraday Shield would reduce if not solve the problem - Gee, I wish we has a tech mention that in his earlier posts! Oh, Yeah, I Did, Oh yeah,Oh, Oh, Oh yeah, Wooosh there it is! Seriously, Mader if I could lend you my machine I would, How you fix it soon.

This is going to be my last post here, If I can avoid it. Given the results from the last posts I have to repeat what I said earlier ADD A DROP OF OIL. as I said before these just don't look like electrical problems it's the blade gliding across the vinyl as it turns a corner the knife doesn't turn to the right angle and causes skipping. Good luck, I wish you all well.

On Topic: A Faraday Shield is a metal enclosure grounded to earth ground. It's a step up from a ferrite core and it helps to reduce self-induced harmonic RF. Basically take aluminum foil place it arround the outside of the electronics enclosure and ground the foil. if you still have the problem then it's definitely NOT RF. Stay cheerful life gets better!

Here is a look at my faraday shield I still haven't hooked it up to ground yet

Maybe a Faraday Shield will be better in this situation???