malachiind

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Posts posted by malachiind


  1. I have your file, but am not super sure what it is you are trying to do.

    Rather than your artwork being a single outline, you are working with black

    and white pieces. Are you wanting to cut this as a single black piece without

    adding white to make it complete? Or are you wanting it to be cut with

    two colors both black and white?


  2. The only difference is that it doesn not come with the manuals...I think.

    Check to make sure, as it does offer some good info.

    As for being a student or teacher...aren't we all?

    I learn something new everyday.

    X3 is great for a lot of different reasons, but I hear x4 is a little better.


  3. Most plastisol ink only has to reach a core temperature of 320 degrees in order to be cured correctly.

    So, in answer to your question, Yes you can use the heat press. But, you have to do some test runs first.

    When you print the shirt then take it to the heat press, obviously you don't want to let the shirt fold over at

    all or you will create a mess. When pressing the shirt I have always set the temp to about 350-370 and pressed for 10-12 seconds.

    You will have to see what works best for your press as they may be calibrated differently.

    Know that when you press the ink, it will flatten and be forced into the shirt some, so you may get unwanted

    results. Play with the pressure to get better results.

    When you use a heat transfer, the only difference is that the ink has been cured once before, but it should not make

    any difference that the ink hasn't been cured yet. It just might get messy transfering a wet shirt so minimize the space

    as much as possible.

    One easy way to see if the ink is close to being cured properly, is to stretch the shirt. If cured properly, the ink will stretch a bit maybe as much

    as .25" or so. If it does this, then you should be good, however you should always do a test wash or 2 or 3 before selling to your clients.

    Hope this helps some.


  4. I tried to tear it apart, but it has been traced before, so there are a lot of

    broken pieces that just make it difficult to clean up nicely.

    If you spend a little time in finding the right fonts, it would be a whole lot

    easier to redraw than to spend the time trying to clean up. Even if you clean

    it up a little, the lines are pretty gnarly in spots and won't look clean.

    For a couple bucks, you could have someone redo it for you from scratch and

    you could do something else more productive.

    Make sure you charge the customer for it.

    I could easily get $35 just for the artwork and if you look around, you could probably pay

    someone as little as $15 to do it for you.

    Good Luck


  5. Corel x3 is what I used. Basically all i did was import and turned to grayscale, then black and white.

    Adjusted the tone curve to include the lighter portions of the car. Once it was nice and dark, I erased

    everything but the car outline. Traced it, then cleaned it up a bit. Retyped the font myself using Impact font,

    which was the closest I had.

    Basically took about 15 minutes or so.