malachiind
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Posts posted by malachiind
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Here is what I think you are going after.
Let me know.
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I have your file, but am not super sure what it is you are trying to do.
Rather than your artwork being a single outline, you are working with black
and white pieces. Are you wanting to cut this as a single black piece without
adding white to make it complete? Or are you wanting it to be cut with
two colors both black and white?
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Post your eps here and I will see what you are dealing with and try to help.
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The carrier sheet just seemed to be real slick and didn't want to hold anything in place.
I tried several different cutting speeds and depths, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
The thicker lines cut out real nice, but it just wasn't good on the smaller letters.
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I guess it was the vinyl. I switched the vinyl out for another sample
and it worked like a charm without changing anything else.
Guess there is a learning curve on the vinyl side of things as well...
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I tried to lessen the length of the blade, but is still lifts up small parts.
I wonder if it is the vinyl, it is Avery
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Simple enough even I can do it...
Thanks
What about the letters coming up when cutting, I am down to about 8" per second and still lifting up.
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I have a Refine MH721 and got it about 3 months ago, however I have not used it but a couple times around christmas.
I was wondering how to change the starting position of the cutter. Let's say you have used a portion of the vinyl and need
the cutter to cut further to the left side, how would I do this.
Thanks,
Josh
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The only difference is that it doesn not come with the manuals...I think.
Check to make sure, as it does offer some good info.
As for being a student or teacher...aren't we all?
I learn something new everyday.
X3 is great for a lot of different reasons, but I hear x4 is a little better.
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Most plastisol ink only has to reach a core temperature of 320 degrees in order to be cured correctly.
So, in answer to your question, Yes you can use the heat press. But, you have to do some test runs first.
When you print the shirt then take it to the heat press, obviously you don't want to let the shirt fold over at
all or you will create a mess. When pressing the shirt I have always set the temp to about 350-370 and pressed for 10-12 seconds.
You will have to see what works best for your press as they may be calibrated differently.
Know that when you press the ink, it will flatten and be forced into the shirt some, so you may get unwanted
results. Play with the pressure to get better results.
When you use a heat transfer, the only difference is that the ink has been cured once before, but it should not make
any difference that the ink hasn't been cured yet. It just might get messy transfering a wet shirt so minimize the space
as much as possible.
One easy way to see if the ink is close to being cured properly, is to stretch the shirt. If cured properly, the ink will stretch a bit maybe as much
as .25" or so. If it does this, then you should be good, however you should always do a test wash or 2 or 3 before selling to your clients.
Hope this helps some.
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I need a gnome. You know like on the travelocity commercials.
Preferably with the thumbs up...
Thanks in advance.
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Yes, there are flatbed cutters that will do engraving. They just have multilple attachments.
should be able to google it. I have seen them at trade shows.
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Not sure what you needed, but I think this is what you meant.
It is now two pieces. Should work out.
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I don't see the file...
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I tried to tear it apart, but it has been traced before, so there are a lot of
broken pieces that just make it difficult to clean up nicely.
If you spend a little time in finding the right fonts, it would be a whole lot
easier to redraw than to spend the time trying to clean up. Even if you clean
it up a little, the lines are pretty gnarly in spots and won't look clean.
For a couple bucks, you could have someone redo it for you from scratch and
you could do something else more productive.
Make sure you charge the customer for it.
I could easily get $35 just for the artwork and if you look around, you could probably pay
someone as little as $15 to do it for you.
Good Luck
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Corel x3 is what I used. Basically all i did was import and turned to grayscale, then black and white.
Adjusted the tone curve to include the lighter portions of the car. Once it was nice and dark, I erased
everything but the car outline. Traced it, then cleaned it up a bit. Retyped the font myself using Impact font,
which was the closest I had.
Basically took about 15 minutes or so.
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Yep...very small and hard to work with.
Here is what I got for you...should work, but you
might want to obviously change the colors.
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Those look nice. Thanks a bunch.
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I need a saxophone and a trumpet. The only ones I have are pretty cheesy looking.
Looking for somehting a little cleaner and nicer.
Thanks
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I need some custom sized alum. sign blanks. I am in So. Cal.
Does anyone know of any place local, I am just outside Los Angeles.
1 6' x 22"
5 10" x 18"
Thanks
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when I downloaded it there was not a zipped file only a single one.
Maybe I don't have the right program or something... I will check that out.
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I see that everything is in a rar format...whatever that is.
anyone know how to open it with corel?
how do i combine text with graphic
in SignBlazer
Posted
Make sure you show us what it looks like as a finished project...