bizzytop 1 Posted February 4, 2010 Mid I had seen some flash dryers on ebay for $250, they are coil, the price have gone up now they are $275. Sunie has a flash dryer for $269. It shows the heating element as a coil as well. What is the difference between the coil and IR? would it make any difference in the curing process? there is a place here http://www.screenprintingsupplies.com/Seiki_SK1515.htm that has them for $250. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sarconastic 29 Posted February 4, 2010 the seiki 16" x 16" is one I saw for $250, it is element based not infrared, I have found a few others in that range. The Cheapest I have found an infrared unit was for $310 or so. I realize Infrared is better, but It will probably be about money for me right now. Yeah I took the glass out of the unit too LOL. All I have seen for the dryers so far is the ones I found on youtube, and couple of other sites.. Haven't come across any actual plans for them yet, I mistated and should have said ideas not plans, sorry Mid.. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted February 4, 2010 I have read various places that the coil type will give you an uneven flash/cure in between where the coils are. It depends on the design of the coil though. I have seen some that are literally the broiler element from an oven in a sheet metal case, and that seems to work fine for me. If the difference is only $50 or so, I'd wait and the get the IR though. It will be nicer in the long run. Attached are a few pics of the conveyor I am part way through. I got the IR panel for around 300 from Intek (actually payment for a job), and paid 50 for the conveyor section off craigslist. I am working on how I am going to drive the belt from the treadmill motor, which you can see in the bottom of the first pic. I am going to need a 6:1 reduction, which isn't easy unless I buy a gearbox, which isn't cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sarconastic 29 Posted February 4, 2010 the simplest way to drive that, and the most reliable would be to remove the end roller, remove the bearings from the end of it and weld a 1/2" solid shaft through the center. Leave several inches out the end and put a pulley on it. Mount to the rails with dodge bearings. they're cheap and will last a life time. I would do the same to the other end just to make sure it stays true and lasts. The bearings in those rollers are not designed to work under pressure for long periods of time and will fail, and be a pain to keep the belt aligned. you can then select pulleys that give you the 6to1. plus you can rig up an alignment adjuster on one side pretty easy. This will make it tons easier to help the belt track. Here's one I saw that uses a dodge bearing on the end units.. very simple and easy to install. and you can lube it internally with a grease gun. they have built in zerks. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted February 4, 2010 The problem is that those rollers don't have anything in the center of them, to my knowledge. The endcaps are where the bearings are located, other than that its just a hollow steel tube. I guess I could weld a plate on the ends and drill a well-centered hole. To mount the tensioning/alignment system, I need to cut a slot to let the roller and bearings move and then tighten down the bearing blocks. My uncle has been talking about buying a plasma cutter for a while, I'm sort of waiting for that to happen too... You are definitely right about the dodge bearings. This is why I've been just letting it sit around for awhile, the more people I talk with it about, the more clear it becomes, thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sarconastic 29 Posted February 5, 2010 That's teh same way i do, I think about, listen, ask a few question, and usually by the time I start I have a good Idea of what I am going to do. For the end roller you might be better off looking fo some tubes that are the width of your rails. I usually wander around farm stores, like orshelins or Tractor supply, and find stuff I can make work for the application I am looking for. another alternative could be found at a farm store. they make weld in hubs that are made for the center of a pulley. they have the set screws that lock them to the shaft. you should be able to find them for about $6-7 each. once you see them you'll understand what I am talking about. Check out this page, it gives you an idea what you can do. I use this supplier a lot for supplies at work. http://www.mcmaster.com/#conveyor-belt-tensioners/=5odprd Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cutme 5 Posted February 5, 2010 i have had nothing but great service from ryonet, and if there was a problem, they took care of it. i bought their six color two station silver press, and am very pleased with it. i use the matsui line of water based discharge ink. it has a 4 hour pot life. and if you keep it from drying out, you can use it on white fabric as a nondischarge ink. you don't have to throw it away. the only big drawback is that you have to use hot air (310 degrees) to cure it. ir won't cure it properly. i bought a used electric forced air conveyor oven and modified it to suit my application. it is four feet wide and cost me a total of approximately $2,000.00. a new oven that would be comparable, would cost around $15-20,000. i am currently using a good quality heat gun for flashing between colors. i wash my screens out with simple green, no special chemicals. i have been using knife cut film from ulano for my screens, but i am getting setup to do photo emulsion. bb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
