DavidHamp

Has anyone had lots of experience with this stuff. I'm running a roland gx-24 and having a bear of a time getting it to weed out so any info on cutting settings would be great. I run flexisign for my cut program. i'm gonna try to do another one on 2 passes and see if that makes a difference.

Ran it with Medium pressure with a pillow inside the smock used normal siser easyweed with a teflon coversheet at 320 degrees for 20seconds and all came out very nice. Very good mating between the vinyl and the material with out damage to the poly/nylon material. Its a non-stretch smock so i wasnt worried bout using normal easyweed. The smock is for a barbershop so its this material just so the hair doest stick to it. I will post a pic here in a bit. Thank you for your help and advice

Yea i will try to test press a corner on the bottom at heat to see. I have done a poly/lycra blend with no issues but its the nylon that has me concerned. As that I'm new to the pressing side of this I just didnt know if theres things that cant be pressed cause of the heat.

tried to do a look up on this on google really didnt find anything i was looking for. A babershop wants me to do there smocks that go over there shirts. and there a 60/40 blend and not sure if these can be pressed or not i dont wanna melt there stuff and kinda hard to perform a test press on any area of it.without ruining the smock.

This was actually my next question is it better to use a clear tape for multi layer decals as that you can see through it better than the paper tape. I have also read about the plus sign i will try this on my next one and try it out. I figured a large part of this would just be trail and error and learning first hand but the error part can be expensive and costly speacilly when your just starting out.

Ok I use Oracal 651 and then paper tape Rtape high tack gereral purpose i beileve is what it is. The fluid i used was the ACTION TAC off Us Cutter. I had watched plenty of videos before hand did everything as described. Sprayed action tac on window wiped it clean before hand then sprayed more on it laid the decal. Squeegeed the shit out of it then sprayed the app tape let it soak as soon as i started to pull it off the letter pulled right off. Ended up haveing to turn on the rear defroster and using a heat gun before over the whole thing took me about 2 hours to do. Also before hand i heated to rear window til it was warm to touch. also i have seen basic layering videos on youtube leave a registration mark usually diamonds then layer on top but for things that need to be exact can I wet app them on to the backing paper or is this something better done on the substrate that the decal is going onto? Great advice with removing some of the tape i actually wondered about that.

Ok so i been cutting for awhile and have seen videos on basic cutting-appyling a simple decal but i'm looking to learn how to layer multiple layer/colors and wet app and laying on curved surfaces. I have used wet app once and it was a nightmare vinyl wouldnt stick just kept sliding around. I have a feeling that it was due to window not being warm enough or just low grade application fluid or just user error. I laid my first decal on a very curved surface yesterdat but ended up with a wrinkle in the vinyl i couldnt get out i made it look pretty good in the end but still. I want to learn more on how to do these things and I cant find any in depth videos or anythign on here with searching. Below is the dirt bike plastics i did last night and the rear window i did that was a wet app that was a nightmare

Well for anyone that is having issues with this cutter on mine i just selected the auto-weld and the autotrap and took the value down to .025. Then pulled my blade back a little bit i think i had it sticking out to much then bumped up my downforce to compensate for the less amount of blade and i just cut the decal in the pic and cut better than its ever cut before i'm beyond excited right now.

Here is a view of what i'm seeing.

is no 4th tab lol maybe the version of the program i have is too old?

Ok sounds good honestly the cutter I'm using now is something a friend got in trade for a paint job on a car and was sitting in a box for the last 3 years and i asked him if i could use it for awhile its been good to learn on but everything is so outdated i was told it was bought new/used off ebay in late 2000 or early 2001. I'm hoping to either but a roland or a graphtec very soon just been deciding between the 2.

ok i'm gonna try to find it now and see if it helps i'm guessing its gonna be in the advance section of the cutting options

I just found the blade offset and bumped it to .4 it seemed to help a little but theres still gaps also holes wear the blade is entering and leaving the cut on the vinyl. My blade is barely sticking out my downforce is set to 110 possibly to much? thinking backing it down just a tad to see if it helps also

I know this is Super OLD but i have the exact same cutter and am having the same exact issue of the cuts not finishing up all the way I spend a majority of my time weeding with an exacto knife finishing the cuts as i weed the vinyl out. I use VE LXi apprentice as my cutting program any advice would be amazing!!!

Now will it matter that the one I have is prolly about 13 years old? Or do you think that they still have the same set up? also being that 80% of my stuff is smaller fonts and decals should i go for the 60 degree blades?