KahneFan

I cut by color often for layering. But, is there a way to select multiple colors to cut at once? For example, my design is red and black, but I make my own registration marks which are green. So, I want to cut red/green, then the next cut will be black/green. How can I select the green and the other color to cut.

Thank you all so much for your help! After the adjustments you all suggested, the cutter works much better. I adjusted the pinch rollers much tighter and I think that helped A LOT! I cut that 6' run again and it came out very well. All my registration marks lined up perfectly over the 6' of cutting. Y'all are life savers!

You are correct. Sorry, I was referring to looking at the blade held up in front of me and dropping it lower in the holder. So, if it's mounted, I cannot go higher or it will not cut at all. Speed 040 mm/s Press 140g Up_Speed 100 mm/s Baud rate 19200

I used the post-its many months ago as a way to test before going to vinyl initially. Once I went to vinyl, I still adjusted from there. I have 2 blades. 1 blade I use for 651 (standard vinyl) and 1 blade I use for 5600 (reflective), and I change the blades depending upon what I'm cutting. I understand blade depth is important. Honestly asking, have I done or said something that leads you to believe I don't care about my blade depth or have my blade depth set incorrectly? My blades cut through the vinyl, but not the backing. Most of the time they cut shallow enough I don't even get a shadow line/indention on the backing below. With all that said, I completely agree that I (still) might not have the blade set correctly, but if I set the blades any lower than they are they simply will not cut through the vinyl - I've tried. I absolutely know I'm novice still, I've never had formal training, I 100% appreciate all your advice, and am taking your advice and am doing everything you all are asking of me. I posed the question of the Teflon strip as to understand the effects of a bad Teflon strip, I even mentioned I wasn't trying to be argumentative, but honestly trying to learn and understand. MZ SKEETER, I could understand your frustrations if I hadn't been doing (everything) you've suggest... but I have, which is why my machine is now dialed in better than when we began. Honestly, if there was someone near the Austin, TX area I could pay to come dial this thing in and give me a lesson, I'd do it in a heartbeat, because I know I'm a rookie.

If I add overcut, would it then overcut the areas which are currently not having issues?

Not to disagree, more of a discussion; wouldn't a problem with the Teflon strip be something that would be uniform down the design? These look like it's simply stopping short - or out of alignment. For example, I forgot to lock my middle roller on a larger design once and there was a very uniform line down that area of the entire design where the blade didn't cut through the vinyl. I'm guessing a divot in the Teflon would show as an issue every time it went across that spot. Again, not saying it's not the issue, just checking. Blade holder is clean. I'll check out adding oil! Side note on pressure, I have tested it on a stack of post-its where it doesn't cut when gliding, but when I give pressure it cuts only the top post-it, but not the post-it below.

I do not see any cracks on the arm. I feel like I'm a lot closer now after doing the calibrations. The default registration marks are all within the box now (this was my crazy test pattern page). The machine's test star still has a slight opening on the bottom left though.

Offset would be this test?

Thank you for all your help so far by the way.

Many many times on the reflective. As mentioned, this has been an issue for a while, but on smaller designs, it wasn't enough for me to "worry" over. Now that I'm trying to cut this larger pattern, it exaggerates the issue enough to be a problem. I did the "Cutter Scale" option you showed and that was eye opening, thank you. My machine was slightly out of scale, which is now corrected. But, it still doesn't connect in the corner of this 10" x 4" test box (from the Cutter Scale pattern).

I have not cut the larger design again yet. I'll be cutting it in reflective and don't want to waste the cost of that vinyl until I can get the alignment fixed. That's why I'm using this simple test pattern first before I attempt something larger. If I can't get this smaller design to cut straight, no reason to go to the bigger design yet. This was the test design I used in my first pictures. The flag will have multiple colors, which is why I have the registration marks. The axe will be a different color. Yeah, I could probably lay it by hand without the marks, but the marks definitely highlighted the alignment issue. I am working on the fixes above.

Honestly, I don't care much about the weed box since I cut the vinyl close around the design before weeding anyway. I could turn the box off. But, the registration marks show how far off the design gets. This is one of the registration marks I made in the design above (the arrows). It shows how far off it got before it got back to cut the middle of the arrow. This is going on the tailgate of a truck and if the image curves this much, it'll be noticeable.

I have not. I googled calibration, but most of the results I found were about contour cutting, which I'm not doing.

Understood! Back to my current model though, USC originally sent me a new board along with the head when it wasn't lifting the blade at first. Replacing the head fixed the lifting issue, but do you think it would be worth it to try replacing the board in case that might be causing this current issue somehow?