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BedlamBarber

Graphtec CE LITE-50 Cutting Strip question

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Does anyone have this little cutter and the larger cutters of the same generation? I'm wondering if the cutting strip from a larger CE6000 will fit if cut down? Also does the cutting blade holder from the larger one work in it? I feel like this thing is a bad merge of the Silhouette and the CE6000 series

This little machine got discontinued and it's hard to find a reputable dealer selling parts. I'm regretting buying it for this and other reasons. The left and right sensors are awful, the material sensor is iffy, often requiring multiple restarts to detect the material. It often doesn't do the end to end overcut so shapes are often left open no matter how slow I run it, and the cutting blade is ridiculous. You can't change the blade in the holder. Why? ugh. But in the meantime I need to make it keep working until I can replace it. (so for anyone wondering if you should buy it used, don't.)

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I would venture to say "yes" to using the same cutting strip, those are fairly standard width, machine to machine.

As for the other situation with the holder, that's the complete opposite of the strip. Each machine has unique dimensions of the blade holders. And you say that particular holder is even MORE unique in that blades can't be swapped out!

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Yeah! And I'm a very adept hand at modding things. There's no way to get that blade out without destroying it to the point of not being usable. I tried one from Ebay, some big honkin' metal thing that weighs too much and doesn't work at all in that machine. The motors are just too wimpy I think. I've worked Graphtec and Gerber machines off and on in the big sign shops since 2007! I've never used one like this. It feels like a Toys R Us kids toy. I don't know if Graphtec licensed it out to some other factory, but it's good they discontinued it. Just wish I hadn't jumped on it. The price..  it was too good to be true. Caveat Emptor. But now I've got my eyes on the CE8000-40. 

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I appreciate it, but I was looking for a DIFFERENT blade holder that I can change the blade in instead of buying a new one every time and Graphtec has absolutely insane shipping prices. It costs more to SHIP that strip than it costs! I was looking for reasonably priced options. 

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Do not quote me on this, but I've read online, that other owner's have successfully used the CB09 Blade Holder in the CE Lite-50 machines.  I know you can find after market manufacturers that make those blade holders, fairly inexpensive.  Whether you want to spend money testing that out is entirely up to you.  But if you give it a go, will you let us know the results?

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By the way, we have previously offered the suggestion of flipping over the worn/scratched strip and using the fresh untouched bottom as the top. (not sure if you can do this, because of the adhesive, but worth a try)

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Do not quote me on this, but I've read online, that other owner's have successfully used the CB09 Blade Holder in the CE Lite-50 machines.  I know you can find after market manufacturers that make those blade holders, fairly inexpensive.  Whether you want to spend money testing that out is entirely up to you.  But if you give it a go, will you let us know the results?

I did buy one of those off Amazon but it's made of metal and is quite heavy and I think it's just not nimble. It wasn't finishing cuts properly. The old one isn't either though and I'm not sure if it's because of the dull blade or the cutter itself, the servos are just wimpy. 

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By the way, we have previously offered the suggestion of flipping over the worn/scratched strip and using the fresh untouched bottom as the top. (not sure if you can do this, because of the adhesive, but worth a try)

I did flip it around so it used the other less worn side until that wore out (cut through and my blade isn't deep so why is that happening?) so I split the whole strip like a hair and am using the skinny sliver but it's annoying because the adhesive is worn out. I was hoping I could just get a longer strip that I could cut down for two replacements. But really what I need is a more reliable machine that stays in production longer than a year so I can get affordable replacement parts and a cutting tool that has a changeable blade. heh. I worked for AGES in big, professional sign shops and know how this is supposed to go, but they had money to burn on parts. Just running my little micro business side hustle and can't afford thousands of dollars in software and supplies. So far the little sticker shop is buying its own vinyl rolls and if the cutting strip had stayed available on Amazon it would have been reasonable. It was $16 if I remember right, and I should have gotten spares, but didn't think this machine would go out of production. ugh. It's "affordable" through graphtec, sure, but not the shipping!! What is with those shipping costs?! 

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Show us your test cuts from the machine TEST feature. That has to be correct first. also did you calibrate your cutter to the cutting software?  It should be . Make a square 3" x 3"   cut it make sure it is exactly 3" x 3" after cut. If not, you need to adjust, so that it is. 

HAHA! I am not laughing at YOU, just this machine. The manual has literally 4 pages of setup, NO calibration instructions at all. It is a toy! Not (as advertised) an entry level professional machine. 

Edit to add: I do have a very nice caliper (I also do 3d printing) so I can do that, but I'll have to FAAFO how to calibrate with my brain meats. I will do that now. 

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Calibration is in the  cutting software. (We don't know what you are using). Once again show your TEST cuts from the Vinyl cutter TEST feature. That is where you start.  Setting blade depth is all over this forum is for any vinyl cutter.  If blade is set correctly, it cannot cut thru the vinyl and backing.  To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct. 

That much I do know. Like I said, industry professional. I know a bad machine when I use one. Worked everything from super thin window films to sandblasting material and I'm the only one who ever fixed machines at two places I worked including a huge Roland, but only ever broke in one new machine. Mostly you buy a professional machine and they keep working for decades. 

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I did buy one of those off Amazon but it's made of metal and is quite heavy and I think it's just not nimble. It wasn't finishing cuts properly. The old one isn't either though and I'm not sure if it's because of the dull blade or the cutter itself, the servos are just wimpy. 

Hmm ... All of my blade holders are made of aluminum, so I guess I'm just used to it.  The servo should be okay with it, provided that a) the blade tip  is in tact, and its not dragging with a broken blade, and/or b) the blade holder is free of debris to free spin properly.  When my vinyl cut doesn't look to be spot on, I will take out the blade holder and inspect the blade itself, and well as clean out the holder.

You can try the blade holder with a Clean Cut Blade, which often times do not require as much force to cut, which should cause less drag on the servos.

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Hmm ... All of my blade holders are made of aluminum, so I guess I'm just used to it.  The servo should be okay with it, provided that a) the blade tip  is in tact, and its not dragging with a broken blade, and/or b) the blade holder is free of debris to free spin properly.  When my vinyl cut doesn't look to be spot on, I will take out the blade holder and inspect the blade itself, and well as clean out the holder.

You can try the blade holder with a Clean Cut Blade, which often times do not require as much force to cut, which should cause less drag on the servos.

It is possible it's because it came with cheap blades. Good idea. I'll at least try to change to a different one. Maybe the one I used is faulty. 

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