PM-Performance

First impressions of the Prismcut P28

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I really hadn't thought of this idea and think it might just be the trick! An empty ball point pen tip would be the perfect size for the crease line I'm needing. I appreciate the creative thinking!

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Reviving an older thread.

My PrismCut P28 is arriving today. I lost my less-than-a-year-old SC2 28" in November when our home burned down, as well as all of my other equipment and supplies. I started with a Cameo 4, but wanted something larger. I kept the Cameo for print & cut jobs, because the process wasn't exactly a feature of the SC2. I thought about buying a Cameo 4 Pro and another SC2, but couldn't fathom trying to figure out where to put 2 large machines in our new home. That lead me to the PrismCut P28, and PM-Performance's video of contour cutting with the P28 sealed the deal. It appeared to work even better than the Cameo 4. 

I'll give it up to USCutter for getting everything out quickly; ordered Thursday, and it's coming today. I ordered the P28 with stand and starter kit, as well as a Transforsa 15" x 15" heat press to get started with, since USCutter was running a deal on that, too. It'll give me enough basic supplies and equipment to get back into the swing of things again, and start getting the extra cashflow coming in. I'm going to jump to a 16" x 20" or 24" press within a few months for larger jobs. 

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The stand for my PrismCut was finally delivered yesterday, after UPS failed to load it on the correct truck. The box was opened and partially busted apart, with many pieces missing. These are now out of stock at the NC warehouse, so I have to wait until they get the WA location finished to get a replacement shipped out sometime this week. Upon looking at the website again, there is now a catch basket available for the P28 stand. I may have to order one soon. 

When using the cutting mat with the P28, is there something special that needs done due to the extra thickness? I haven't looked in SCALP5 to see if there's an option for a cutting mat. 

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To get you going the correct direction.  this is how you set the blade depth for any vinyl cutter.  Blade offset is 0.25mm  adjust at 0.05 plus or minus to get correct.  Start slow  until you learn your cutter.  Force is determined by your blade depth, which must be set correctly at the beginning. Do not use a credit card or post it notes to set blade depth,  this is wrong and way too much blade exposed out of blade holder.  You would only use a cutting mat for cutting all the way thru the vinyl, or possibly cutting some scraps, What do you plan to do with a cutting mat?   Vinyl cutters cut right to left.

 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.  

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21 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

To get you going the correct direction.  this is how you set the blade depth for any vinyl cutter.  Blade offset is 0.25mm  adjust at 0.05 plus or minus to get correct.  Start slow  until you learn your cutter.  Force is determined by your blade depth, which must be set correctly at the beginning. Do not use a credit card or post it notes to set blade depth,  this is wrong and way too much blade exposed out of blade holder.  You would only use a cutting mat for cutting all the way thru the vinyl, or possibly cutting some scraps, What do you plan to do with a cutting mat?   Vinyl cutters cut right to left.

 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. When you think the blade is so far in the blade holder, that you think it would not even cut, that is probably correct.  

I'm no stranger to setting blade depth. My former machine was the SC2. Same principles apply. The blade depth is already set. 

I'll, potentially, be using the cutting mat often for print & cut work. I'm not finding much information about anything specific to using the mat with the PrismCut. The Cameo has an option to choose if a mat is being used. I'm not seeing anything similar in SCALP5, but I didn't really expect to with this class of plotter. PM-Performance did this in one of his videos. I'm just waiting for a reply on one of his videos to see if he did anything special when using the mat, unless anyone here has some advice. 

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Just an assumption here, but my guess would be the only thing you might need to do would be to adjust the pressure on the rollers that hold the vinyl and that would only be necessary if the mat is rather thick.

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On 1/26/2022 at 8:28 AM, darcshadow said:

Just an assumption here, but my guess would be the only thing you might need to do would be to adjust the pressure on the rollers that hold the vinyl and that would only be necessary if the mat is rather thick.

It seems to be average thickness. I'm going to play around with it, maybe tomorrow or Sunday. 

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A little update on the stand. They still aren't showing stock, and I was informed the WA warehouse still isn't able to ship it out. I inquired if the stand for the SC2 or MH could be used with some modification, and I was told if the PrismCut stand still isn't available to ship Monday, they would ship one for an SC2, and I might be able to make it work with some modifications. I'm game to try it. I have to get this thing off my table, since I'm dealing with limited space, and that table could be put to better use. 

I still haven't tried using the cutting mat yet, but will be soon. 

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I would say "no" to the MH stand, but that SC2 would probably work out, and it comes with a media basket assembly, which is really a nice feature.

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Kustom D'  -- that  stand for the SC2 is sold WITH a catch-basket, as an integral part of the package.

 

 

sc2.jpg

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On 2/7/2022 at 8:18 AM, slice&dice said:

Kustom D'  -- that  stand for the SC2 is sold WITH a catch-basket, as an integral part of the package.

 

 

sc2.jpg

Only with the purchase of the cutter. Buying it by itself, it's not included, and $69.99. I received shipping confirmation for the stand, with item code ALSTANDU, which when searched on their website takes you to the page for only the stand. The catch basket is another $29.99, sold by itself. 

 

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Considering that USCUTTER is trying to 'make good' on a dissatisified customer experience, you should have requested they include the accessory catch basket as well, no charge.

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Well, Kustom D'  ---  you still have an opportunity to have them send it along, after you get the stand (and hopefully discover it fits your machine), try giving them a call and order some other stuff (vinyl, app tape, tools, banners, etc.) and mention you were disappointed not to get the catch-basket which you thought was all-inclusive when you purchased a stand, and ask to speak to the sales manager so that maybe they can make a small gesture to send you that item since you've been jumping through hoops to get this broken stand issue resolved. It's worth a try!

Maybe you'll get a sympathetic sales manager to accept this request. The worst they can say is no.

 

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The stand was delivered yesterday. One of the locking wheels is broken...

I emailed the guy I've been working with to tell him. I also mentioned about the $30 price difference between the stands, asking for the catch basket, when I asked him to send a replacement wheel. We'll see what he says if/when he responds today. He's been pretty good at keeping in touch and updating the situation. 

On a much brighter note, the PrismCut fits nearly perfectly on the SC2 stand. 

Start by removing the rubber feet from the bottom of the PC, leaving the rubber feet on the screws. 

Set the PC on the stand, aligning the inner rear lots on the SC2 stand brackets with the rear holes for the feet of the PC. Screw in rear the feet. 

That's basically it. Leaving the feet on the screws acts like a washer so the screws don't slip through the slot. It's only secured by one screw on each end, but it's plenty sufficient. I do plan to come up with something to go across the front to hide the brackets, and as a precautionary for 24" vinyl from rubbing on them, but it's not an issue at this point. 

 

 

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Replacement wheels were shipped, and he issued a $30 store credit towards the purchase of the catch basket on my next order. I'm satisfied with the outcome. Hopefully there are no more issues to worry about. 

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Don't you love it when a plan comes together?!!

Your next order can also include an App-Tape dispenser, a very useful thing to own.

By the way, some people like to place the rollers in the front of the stand, to make it easier to load heavy vinyl rolls -- that's how I do it.

 

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I bought the tape application roller on my last order. Definitely handy. I was using it for my roll of vinyl until the stand came, and I used it when I made a wall decal a few days ago. 

When you say putting the rollers on the front makes it easier, do you mean to line the vinyl up straight? 

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10 hours ago, Kustom D'signs said:

I bought the tape application roller on my last order. Definitely handy. I was using it for my roll of vinyl until the stand came, and I used it when I made a wall decal a few days ago. 

When you say putting the rollers on the front makes it easier, do you mean to line the vinyl up straight? 

Great minds think alike! The fact that you agreed with my suggestion about owning that app-roller unit means that it's for sure a valuable addition to anyone's cutting studio. The only comment I can add is to make sure it's secured down to the table edge -- I'm using this adjustable c-clamp.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTkTA9e694arE6SzBeirwO

I put the rollers out towards the front of the stand because that way I can easily place heavy 30" rolls (50 yards full) instead of reaching over the top of the machine to place them onto the stand. Then, I unroll the length I require and the vinyl just falls into the media basket, so I can feed up and through from the back and align the travel while offline (jog with the keypad arrows).

If you notice, the machine has a curved body to allow for this.

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The SC2 stand is on wheels. I just wheel it out away from the wall enough to put the roll on. As for big rolls, I'll primarily only be using big rolls of B-Flex Gimme5 EVO HTV. It's a very thin and lightweight vinyl, and even the 54 yard roll isn't horribly heavy. That's what I have on it in the picture above. 

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A little update on the SC2 stand. I realized the left side was sitting back a little more than the right. I removed the foot on that side, and slid the PC a little further forward, lining up the foot hole to the round hole on the SC2 stand bracket. That lines it up perfect, paying attention to any movement when tightening the foot, as there is play. All is good now. 

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