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dearmitt1976

Newbie Needs help

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Hi everyone.  I am new and been trying to play around and test but I'm hitting a wall.  I have the Titan 3 15" Tabletop unit and trying to vinyl cut out some logos for on coffee mugs using oracal 651 vinyl.  Could anyone give me advice on blade (I was using 45 degree) Speed (I've tried slow at 40) and force (60 grams)?  I feel that I have the blade barely out of holder but I'm still cutting deep and its very choppy like a cat clawed at the vinyl. 

Thank you in advance of any advice you can give.

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This is the ms skeeter way of doing it and it is dead on.

So thank ms skeeter for this.

 

Do you have your blade depth set correctly?  This is how to set correctly.

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the bl

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After getting the blade depth set properly, the rest is trial and error. I have an original LaserPoint, and depending on what the design/text I'm cutting is, as well as what color and age of my vinyl - the settings would vary. The typical average for that machine would be at about a speed of 60, slower if the text is small or the design intricate. The force would be between 80 - 100 or so, depending on the vinyl. For small text or small/intricate designs, you're going to want to slow the blade down. You might also want to consider picking up a 60-degree blade. My personal preference for blades are the Clean Cut Blades. I have 60-degree blade in both my LP and Graphtec.

Good luck. Keep us posted with your results.

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Thank you all.  I was able to successfully get the logo cut out.  However, I'm trying a different logo that has some detail with 1/4" letters.  I'm having zero luck.  I'm using the recommended 60 degree blade.  I have tried every speed know to man but the letter keep peeling up during the cut.  Is there a different setting I should be using?  I'm using Oracal 651.  Any help is appreciated as you guys are very helpful.  Thank you again?

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6 minutes ago, dearmitt1976 said:

Thank you all.  I was able to successfully get the logo cut out.  However, I'm trying a different logo that has some detail with 1/4" letters.  I'm having zero luck.  I'm using the recommended 60 degree blade.  I have tried every speed know to man but the letter keep peeling up during the cut.  Is there a different setting I should be using?  I'm using Oracal 651.  Any help is appreciated as you guys are very helpful.  Thank you again?

You are attempting what most consider higher level cutting usually more effective once you've had more time in the seat so to speak. More experience with your cutter and getting it fully dialed in will produce better results. Sort of like attempting to enter a nascar race the week you got your drivers license. Your machine is probably capable and most of us who have been doing this a while could come tweak a few things and get it to cut but even someone experienced can have trouble depending on a lot of variables. I suggest getting your hands on a better piece of vinyl. 651 is great stuff for basic everyday semi-permanent to permanent work but 751 or even better 951 will cut like butter and weed easier. If you have a local supplier you can run grab a single yard from it may be worth the expense at least to have something to play with so you can master your machine. 651 is calendared and by nature is stiffer and has a tendency to fight you if by chance your cut missed the start and stop point perfectly or by popping up tiny pieces. Higher end cast vinyls are much more flexible and forgiving is this type of application. 

You might also look and see if your cutting program has any options to cut the inside of small letters first. Some programs do some don't. Pay particular attention to your blade depth setting then double check your blade offset is dialed. Cut with only enough pressure to scratch the liner and this will vary from material to material and even from temperature in the room or humidity sometimes. Age of vinyl etc... If you have problems with tags where the start and stop point of a letter don't quite touch you can add a little overcut although go sparingly with that if you do. I don't think theoretically it should ever need to be more than the blade offset or something else is wrong. 

I can't recall if the table titan is a servo machine or stepper motors. Stepper motors may not be precise enough to do really small lettering. The Titan series have been pretty good though and 1/4" SHOULD be do-able with proper set-up. I did 1/4" letters with my old stepper P-Cut back before I upgraded. Use a magnifying glass to see up close what's happening. You can tell a lot if you look really close. Great practice either way and if it's that small you aren't wasting too much vinyl in the process. There are a lot of video out there that can help but beware because there are a lot of stupid stuff that's wrong too. 

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Your Titan 3 is a servo, it should be able to cut, 1/4"  If your lifting vinyl, you probably have too much blade exposed. And you don't need any speed. Slowest possible.  This is how to set your blade depth. This works.  What kind of letters are you trying to cut? 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.

 

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You shouldn't have any problems cutting that , unless you have too much blade exposed.  Or the tip is broken off the blade. Blade not freely moving.   a drop or 2 of light oil in holder.  Make sure no pieces are stuck in blade holder.  How big is that design?   Maybe the file is not good.  Post the file in an .eps so we can look at it. 

Show pictures of how it looks like, after you cut it.   Is the carriage head wheels firmly down in the track, make sure they are,  Make sure no cracks in the blade holder, part of the carriage head. Speed only cuts faster.  It also tears up faster. Go the slowest speed. Make sure you set the blade depth as has been posted hundreds of times on here and is posted above. Vinyl is only 2-3 mil. thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.  Force is determined by the blade depth.  Not any number. Even same models can be different.  Use the test feature on your cutter to do your set up. 

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It's usually a  little more helpful if we see the actual error that was cut (rather than the graphic of what you're trying to cut).

Go through the suggestions that Skeeter recommends and keep us posted on the results.

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I hate to even mention this, but what is Dave's last name? Miller? If so, then you need an apostrophe in there. Or leave it singular.

Dave Miller's Builders  or even Dave Miller Builders.

Also, I would really consider kerning out that text slightly, so the letters don't collide with each other.

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Definitely adjust the kerning or make sure you weld anything that's overlapping.

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I will post more pics when I cut this again,  I said the same thing with the name but customer wants it as is. This is the artwork they gave me.  

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Just because a customer thinks they are right -- doesn't mean they are. Who is the professional graphics designer here? You or Dave Miller Builder? When I have clients who insist on something that makes them look silly, or is obviously a glaring mistake (grammatical or otherwise) I'll just ask them a simple question --- "Do you want me to continue working on your project or not? If yes, then I expect some respect for my abilities and knowledge about what is obviously correct...  if no, then good luck with everything, and have a nice life."

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I probably use a little more tack but agree with slice. :) Your name will become associated to a degree with the end product. I definitely STEER my clients one way or the other usually to make my part of the job go easier. Usually an up-charge for "difficult" design elements will do it. Like Ok here is the price for the design as received or here is a better price if we do this a little differently etc... there are ways to get them to loosen up or at least make a little extra money to put up with the trouble. This is especially easy to do if you are also doing the design work. I just don't offer them things that are too hard to build, like graphics that HAVE to be printed like a self portrait or a gradient shadow or severely distressed elements. 

Your logo is pieced together with elements that are available online. I have those very mountains from a vector I purchased through shutter stock or one of the others. The rest is just typed and modified lettering. Auto traces always look horrible and I think some of what we are seeing are results from that. I am a little OCD when it comes to design work but every sign guy in the world can spot a bad job.

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There are several elements to being successful in this craft. Each one is as important as the next. 

Screen Shot 2020-01-04 at 12.09.56 PM.png

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depending on the overall size of this graphic, you might want to warn advise the customer that the thin lines in the text will probably start peeling - that it will most likely peel easier than the rest o the stuff. I try to steer my customers away from stuff like that, or at the very least, give them a heads up about it - and the fact that I do no warranty stuff like that.

I also typically don't do the "installation" part of the job, but will give them instructions on prepping the surface properly.

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 I have titan 3 and for cutting materials such as cardstock on an adhesive backed mat the body of the blade holder is too long and it will drag on the cardstock. I had to sand off a small amount of the thickness of the aluminum at the tip of the holder to get sufficient clearance to cut the thicker stack of material. Is there any other way you guys prefer?

 

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