cardudenc

HELP!!!! PLEASSEE!!

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starting,trying another new venture with this biz/industry. someone please school me/teach/explain the difference in masking/stencil paint mask. wanting to start making some vintage signage or something similar to sell in the shop. ive read , but sometimes I read/research to much and seem to confuse myself. lol. I would be pulling my hair out by now, but I'm follicly challenged.

I'm looking at oramask 810, 811, 813 even some of the greenstar.... 7000

most signs I plan to brush paint with latex. while others I'm thinking enamel spray paint. I need to quit being lazy and post pics of some of things I have been experimenting with

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That is a good question and I  hope someone will post up the answer for you (us).

I have been making some metal signs, mostly for my own enjoyment.  I usually just use what I have on hand, 631, 651 or greenstar.

Cal

 

 

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Im taking a guess on this,but why wouldnt oracal 631 work for this ,Paint and remove.It has enough adhesive to hold down  and easy to remove and cheap

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will look into the cost of it verse the mask.

update.

your sir are correct. looks like 631 is cheaper. buying 24' by the foot compared to 810s .10 a foot.

631 -813    $21.25  -  $26.49

now I know the 1 is good for spray paints , which is something I'm wanting to try next. most I have been doing so far is with a latex and a brush

I use 651 on the metal signs I make like those

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You need a good paint mask stencil. USCutter has it, but I have ordered it from Summa in the past. Have tried several and Summa had the one that I (and my Customer) liked the best. It was a chromium yellow color, and what I liked about it was that the adhesive did not react to the paint. When paint softens the adhesive it can creep under the stencil and you end up with a paint blob where you want a clean line. Hope that helps! You really need to get some samples in and experiment with a couple brands and see what works best for you, that will depend on what kind of paint you are using and what your substrate/surface is.

Some paints attack the stencils more than others.

My stencils had to be used for painting aircraft. New aircraft and re-paints.

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my last order I added a roll of 811. or whichever is supposed to resist spray paint. I wished I had thought of ordering a yd or 2 of all the others to test and see which I like the best

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I used the white stuff (811?) on a car a couple years ago and while it worked fine, it was very thick and hard to work with. I have 813 now and it's easier to work with. I haven't painted with it myself though. I make stencils for another guy who does custom airbrushing and he says it works great.

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21 hours ago, cardudenc said:

my last order I added a roll of 811. or whichever is supposed to resist spray paint. I wished I had thought of ordering a yd or 2 of all the others to test and see which I like the best

Cardudenc, Yeah trying a few samples first is a great way to find out what works or doesn't work. Takes more time to try them first, but in the long run, it's best because then you know (usually) what your results will be. I got such a range of materials in when I ordered samples for paint mask. Was a bit shocked at how some of them didn't stick at all to vehicles, but were recommended to me by Companies selling them. To me, some of them were more suitable as a frisket film for airbrushing on more porous materials, not for vehicles at all.

I think for me, the most important factor about how the stencils were going to be used by my Customer who painted aircraft and vehicles, was finding a stencil that could survive the baking process the paint had to undergo.

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most of mine will be for my use only doing signs.  wood and metal. doing vintage and distressed . so some of the wood is really rough

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Following this...

I've had a buddy of mine ask if I could get masking material, which I knew the answer was yes, just didn't know what vinyl could possibly be used as well.

Good info here.

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