Multi-Colored Wording?

[iam1ofhis 0]

I'm not sure of the correct terminology but, this is what I'm wanting to do on the back of a black t-shirt. Using the word 'HAGGINS', I want to print it in black vinyl. I think I have that concept grasped. Now, here's the tricky part for me: using the same word, I would like to layer it in white. My finished product would ultimately be black wording that has a white outline. How can this be done? I've attached a picture to help make sense of my question. Thanks!

[skarekrow 1,841]

Just create the outline in white and the black tee shirt will show thru for the inner text.

 

[iam1ofhis 0]

OK....that sounds simple enough. LOL

But I still don't know how to go about the layering process. Let's say the shirt is red and the lettering is black with a white outline. How would I go about it then?

Thanks!

[Wildgoose 4,198]

You can multi layer two different ways. You can either layer a whole layer of white that covers the whole area behind the black and then place the black on top of it or you can cut the black letters and then place an outline of white over the top. Each has it's own strength. Two whole layers can feel a little too heavy on teeshirts so the second method will produce pretty much a single layer. On hoodies you wouldn't notice so the first ,method is faster and easier to do. If you decide to do the second method using an outline I always design the lower letter or object slightly larger than it normally would be and let the outline overlay a little bit. When you press a shirt it will shrink and it's hard to get perfect alignment so this method helps avoid any mis-alignment. If the outline is really skinny then I often just do the first method.  You will have to play with both to decide which works best for you. If using Siser Easyweed you can press the first layer for about 5 or 6 seconds and pull the liner then place the second over the top and do the full 12 to 15 recommended. I try to be ready and get my second layer on as quickly as possible to catch the shirt before it shrinks up all the way. 

 

Designing these layers is a whole other discussion. 

[iam1ofhis 0]

Wildgoose....I think the 2nd option would be best, with placing the outline over the top. I think I'm correct in saying I need to have 2 of the same words in order to accomplish this, with the solid color word being larger. Correct me if I'm wrong....now:

 

1. How much larger should it be?

2. How do I create an outline?

 

Once again, I am a Newbie. Got this bright idea one day and just ran with it.....please excuse my ignorance.

[Wildgoose 4,198]

I am making an assumption that you are using SCALP that probably came with your cutter. I am not very versed on that program so the designing part you will have to figure out. I usually do a path offset in my program of choice which is Illustrator. Not sure what that will entail in yours. It may have an "easy button" that will just do it for you. You probably will have to create a larger set of text and then use the smaller to "knock out" the space in the larger. The outline theory isn't rocket science but it's definitely higher math than just the two layer easy version. I would overlap half way on an outline like your Superstar pic in the original post. Same with the Wildcats but the 07 has much thicker outlines so it just needs about the same amount as the Wildcats would get. Hard to explain in writing. There will probably be some youtube examples of the first way online. Not sure if there will be as many examples of the outline way. 

[skarekrow 1,841]

As far as how to do it... depending on which software you're using,

you will type out your text and add an outline or stroke.

Different programs can refer to it by different terms.

In Inkscape, "Dynamic Offset" works well for this effect.

 

What Wildgoose was referring to with the 2 different types

are "Stacked" for the type with a full mat underneath and

"Inlaid" for creating the layers nested into one another.

 

Most software will have you convert your text to curves then

punch it through the underlying mat for an inlaid effect.

[iam1ofhis 0]

Sorry...using SCALP 3

[Wildgoose 4,198]

Here is an example of both options. I think SCALP will open svg files, let me know if it won't. The top one is just two stacked layers the lower one is a red layer that has been oversized and then a black outline on top. You could do this the other way and have the outline down first and then the red part over the top it really doesn't matter. The trick is figuring out the best approach to building it.  Maybe try some practice runs first before actually building a shirt. The two full layers is a lot faster and simpler and if it's a small graphic like a crest print on the left breast or something the double layers of vinyl wouldn't be noticeable. 

Example.svg

[iam1ofhis 0]

Thanks for the example. To my untrained eye, they look exactly the same. Any stacking, layering, or outlining (whatever it's called) would be done with a word and not an image. Does this pose a problem?

[Wildgoose 4,198]

Look at it in wireframe mode. Pull them apart or cut them by color. 

[GraphxNMore 282]

 If using Siser Easyweed you can press the first layer for about 5 or 6 seconds and pull the liner then place the second over the top and do the full 12 to 15 recommended. I try to be ready and get my second layer on as quickly as possible to catch the shirt before it shrinks up all the way. 

 

Designing these layers is a whole other discussion. 

When doing this technique, I've found that you need to press the first layer 5 seconds, pull lines, apply the second layer and press for 5 seconds and peel that liner; then finish for 12 seconds. If the liner on the second layer is inside your bottom layer, it tends to leave an impression that may or may not eventually work its way out.